Seriously? Look at that behemoth on the right.
Seriously? Look at that behemoth on the right
Chad British Empire vs Virgin American Colony
The virgin NA power cord vs Chad European fused plug
120V > 220V poopoo
prove me wrong reddit
>anglos in charge of standards
UK plug is better in every way but it's just so fucking big.
oh shit it's this thread again
get a life
PepeHands
>240V
>omg why is it bigger than 120V??!??!?!?
The current state of Jow Forums
literally the least safe household electrical standard in the world behind ungrounded NA plugs.
retard
I would love to have UK plugs and sockets.
According to who?
I wonder if the purported 'benefits' of the UK plugs are outweighted by the fact that you're much more likely to injure yourself if you step on one.
I do at my house but that just means also having these bad boys permanently plugged into every outlet.
How does that not completely defeat the purpose of having them in the first place?
what the fuck is that? NA fag here
Is that even the right picture? If you don't have devices that uses the UK outlet why even bother having them at your house?
What do bongaloid's powerstrips look like? are they 3.28084 ft long for 5 plugs?
According to physics.
Go get yourself a Chad UK plug because it is safer, thus superior
I can see a UK outlet being useful in a NA home if you wish to use non-neutered kettles or something
It's something I always wanted to do, you already have 240V connected to your stove it would be trivial to wire a UK outlet
imagine having to replace a fuse on a fucking power cord
>uk plug
>superior
It has been obsolete for decades.
Why a bong plug? There are NEMA designs for 240V plugs.
ok retard
Just overcompensation for their peepees
get the fuck out then
>Why a bong plug? There are NEMA designs for 240V plugs.
Use UK appliances without modification
Figure if you are already importing shit you can also import the socket but yeah you could just replug and use nema
I don't know if there are code issues with using non-NEMA plugs so I'd just stick with it. You could get something cool like a locking plug to further justify your investment. I also don't know why you'd import UK-only appliances over European or worldwide-compatible. You can find kettles that are already 100-240V 50/60Hz on Amazon and just put a different plug on it.
>live in america
>have to buy generators, battery backups, and surge protectors because blowing up middle eastern children and subsidizing cocaine fueled yacht orgies is more important than having a reliable electrical grid
>compensating this badly
you have to go, I'm deadass.
>making shitty bait
OP here, is the uk plug hnnnnnng to put into a socket compared to the na plug? The uk plug looks like fun to step on barefoot in a dark room, it's the first time I saw one in person and it's a chunky fucker. Power bars must be a shitshow.
The one on the right has to deliver twice as many volts. It's gonna be chonky.
And yes it is fun to step on. It's natural selection.
Except it is perfectly safe.
> current state
> thread about plugs and electricity
Nice pun faggot
>You can find kettles that are already 100-240V 50/60Hz on Amazon
linky?
Higher voltage, less current. So 120V is deadliest
OP preferred plug
Yeah but he lookin kinda safe doe
Everything else is shit.
Testing
>home circuits are so shit you need a fuse on every appliance.
>water is so shit you need a separate cool and hot water tap.
That's shit because then you might put the plug in the wrong way. You need the plug to be designed so that there is only one correct way to put it in.
>pic related.
>american plugs something in
>house burns down
yep
>Wrong way
If only there was some kind of FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER that would make it so that it didn't matter which way you put it in.
having switches on the outlet itself is something i miss being in the states.
Having polarized plug causes dangerous designs, like neutral on chassis, or similar.
Power is power, should be always treated as live.
Ground is ground.
feels good man
it may be true that a 120V appliance can draw less current, however a higher voltage is essentially more "driving force" which can better push a current through highly resistive organic tissue. V=IR
in layman's terms, 240V is more likely to establish a connection to ground through your body and successfully electrocute you
240V indeed is more likely to establish a connection to ground through resistive substance, but in average conditions 50V is absolutely enough to make connection to ground through human and there is almost no difference between success for 120V vs 240V to electrocute human. Lower voltage = higher current, what makes 120V deadlier than 240V.
>imagine having to replace a fuse on a fucking power cord
Imagine having an unwanted switch on the outlet that instantly cuts power to your PC or video game while you are trying to play.
>safest plug ever, 0 toddlers dieded to stock britbong blug sockits.
>meanwhile in US, shitty protectors are sold at supermarkets to keep toddlers from an hero
UK has shutters on their sockets kek
herro electroboom/EEfag
might i remind you that shitty chynaman manufacturers often tie neutral to the case or other exposed meh-tal shit like USB connectors.
they do it regardless
imagine having a computer that draws 20kW (or a neighbor with a 1500W ham radio tripping your AFCI/GFCI every time he talks to his boomer friends)
proper power strips (british english: "multiplugs") are quite fat things, the bs1363 standard requires that you physically can't put the plug in upside-down with just the earth pin going in it's hole, because this would open the anti-retard shutters on the live and neutral. it's a pretty good indicator of build quality; if a plug can go in upside-down because they didn't make the plastic body wide enough, the socket is an illegal immigrant.
Master race is obvious the Swiss plug. Takes half the space of Schuko while being as safe AND having a fixed polarity.
Only drawback is that the standard one doesn't deliver 16A, but come on, do you need 3.7 kW on a normal wall outlet?
If you don't have proper wiring in your home, the right is very good. for the rest of the world, right is an overkill.
>do you need 3.7 kW on a normal wall outlet
Do you want to mess around with screw terminals when you replace your large appliances or do you just want to plug the fucker in?
>or a neighbor with a 1500W ham radio tripping your AFCI/GFCI every time he talks to his boomer friends
wtf is wrong with the grounding in this picture, is this a real scenario you know of? Shared building?
This is just shitty version of
>imagine having a computer that draws 20kW
Then you have a $20,000 mainframe forced to run it's power through a switch that could get accidentally flipped by a stray cable. That is exactly the point I was making. In some situations those switches are a really bad idea.
There are variants of the Swiss that have three phases/400V and up to 16 amps, that's not the problem. It's just that in a normal room you're limited to 10A.
Bonus, as you see, the 3 phase socket is compatible with the regular plugs.
inequal comparison, chose non ground na plug firstly, so thats partly why its missing size. Also have you seen how thin the yuropoor plug pins actually are, its 99% plastic on the inside of those prongs, just the outside has a tinfoil thin metal shell. The wires in the cable are exactly same as us gauge wise so its literally just different shape and more cumbersome setup for changing a fuse. In use we usually add the fuse inline so its not a cluster to remove. NA plu g has solid metal pins that equate to more metal than yuropoor pins too.
The reason the british plug is so big and overdesigned is that there is a risk that as much as 8000 watts might be available behind it! Safe is NOT the word.
Nice for electric cars though.
It's impossible to accidentally yank a UK plug out of a wall.
But also, have you ever stood on one of those barefoot? It's a mixed bag, really.
>sits on your phone cable
>the prongs on your charger are bent
unless its switching psu on device ur plugging in, that wont do shit and will blow up shit. U need transformer to 220 long with physical standard change.
you know your plug is worse than his right? His plug cannot be bend by sitting on them, yours can as your plug conveys moment in every direction.
Also, it's quite close to ISO 60906-1 and I think we all agree, that this is the best standard of them all.
heard of it happening, it's a requirement to know how to get licensed. high-power shortwave transmissions trip out AFCI, GFCI if it's strong as fuck.
no experience here, RF power amps are expensive and nobody uses GFCI in my 60's asbestos-laden neighborhood.
imagine having a special outlet for ur gayming pc like having a welding machine outlet.
My plug is held by the plastic frame. His is merely held by the prongs. How on earth is the pasta socket better?
theres nothing wrong with a Jow Forums approved programming plug
If your gaymen pc draws more than 2.3 kW, you're doing something wrong
You think a $20,000+ server would run from a socket like that? They use thicc copper busbars on their own circuit, dedicated conduits, or three-phase tomfuckery. Anything heavy like this defaults to heavy connections. Even small welders require dual/three phase.
>has to beef the amps up to match
Fuck that
Because it's irrelevant how it's held together, they have Type L plugs that are moulded and they have type J plugs that are just a shell. what matters is that your prongs is out of alignment and are easier to bend.
Then bend them back, big deal.
Wow, legendary missing of the point.
Those switches are nice sometimes, but having them mandatory is bad for many devices that ordinary people have in their home. They can cause unexpected shutdowns.
That ain't no "Euro" plug. It's British by invention but an English invention by the grace of God.
Lived in both US and UK, currently in UK.
I've never accidentally switched off a plug that I can remember, the switches just require more force than a stray cable could put on it, anyone from UK will agree with this.
In the US I have many times tripped over a cable and pulled it out of the wall, they are looser fitting by design.
accidentally flicking the switch with your foot is annoying, yes. i cannot into reading due to muh 3AM
implied overcurrent with "instantly"
3 phase 400V in houses? sounds like the beginning of a bad EE joke
That must be on general I didn't hear it on technician. That's a hell of an amp, I guess I can see it happening via induction or whatever, kinda nuts to think about though.
prongs is out of alignment and are easier to bend.
Assuming the prongs are the same material, in which case is the torque on the prongs the highest?
>3 phase 400V in houses? sounds like the beginning of a bad EE joke
We don't typically have gas stoves/ovens in Europe.
i'm general, i had to remember that ferrites magically fixed RFI
power lines pick up RF and conduct it in some way to the tech illiterate normie gramma's CRT TV, putting lines all over the screen.
>being cucked to 10 A
ungrounded 16A east euro chad here *dabs*
>ukranian power
you also get 40 free volts at night!
> Only drawback is that the standard one doesn't deliver 16A
There is a 16A standard swiss plug too. But really, we should just standardize all 220-240V on ISO 60906-1. Which also wastes a bit less horizontal space between the pins.
Sadly, the EU was too fucking lazy to adopt it as the European and hopefully worldwide 220-240V standard so far. We got too many shitty household plugs, we just need this one.
I do like the idea that in Italy the plugs can fit in either way. It sounds convenient. But what are the consequences of designing everything so that hot and neutral can be reversed? The US system used to be that way as well, and I think the Japanese plugs still are reversible.
Switzerland has 16A too, though grounded.
It is gay-er than just adopting ISO 60906-1 would have been. You guys would also benefit from just doing standard ISO 60906-1, we could simply use the same damn devices across most of the 220-240V world.
Friendly danish plug vs offended US plug.
>But what are the consequences of designing everything so that hot and neutral can be reversed?
Literally none if you have AC, look at Schuko.
Don't buy shitty chinaman devices.
Disassemble things and check for yourself if not sure.
nah dude, schuko is the standard so everyone should use it (even if they dont have ground wire in the socket ;^ ) )
we are talking about sitting on the thing, no need to change the goal completely.
But aren't we tied to ISO 60309 if we go to 60906-1? 60309 is a behemoth and not compatible with 60906-1. I prefer SEV 1011 T15/T25.
Schuko is the german standard. Bulky and unwieldy as fuck, even the cost of continuing to ship devices with that monstrosity is comparatively enormous going forward. Plus it doesn't have good behaviour in terms of unplugging when you drive into a cable or such.
Basically, it's like the old clunky screw-in parallel printer port plug vs USB Type A or C or something.
ISO 60906-1 is the international standard for a reason. Small and sensible, no downsides to Schuko. Standardize on that rather than half-assed oversized crap.
Ah, sorry, I mean sitting on the cable, thus applying torque on the prongs. This happened to me in Italy and now my Europlug charger still is slightly bent.
>But aren't we tied to ISO 60309 if we go to 60906-1?
No, why would that be the case?
As you said, they're not even compatible standards. You don't get a dependency from 60906-1 to perpetually require 60309.