Post your multimeter

Post your multimeter

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a what?

nu-Jow Forums, everyone.

reminder if your shit cant measure capacitors then you're a tryhard retard

Here's my Hikari.

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UNI-T UT61E, I've added a backlight to it as well because for some reason they didn't include one.

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Sure, i got it from lidl for like 10 euros and it's as accurate as the tektronix units my uni's EE departments has. Money definitely well spent, lidl is based as fuck.

Fuck, forgot pic.

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Wrong board, Jow Forums is for consumerism and fanboy wars.

thank you for reminding me that board exists

Alive and kicking

Fluke 179 True RMS multimeter

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I have an EEVblog branded Brymen BM235. I also got a ANENG AN8008() after seeing a review by EEVblog about it.

Could have opted for a Fluke but I don't do much mains electrical work so it made more sense to get meters with more functionality

>powerflix
Is this from lidl?

Best multimeter i ever had. This thread belongs more on /diy/ tho

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It was a gift

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this cheap thing I got on aliexpress
works fine so far

>it's as accurate as the tektronix units
wouldn't they have more digits of precision

I also have that. And I very recently ordered the 123.

Ali has 6x cheaper models. You're more or less in the Chinese average man multimeter midrange.

It's enough for what I need it for.

This is essentially a thinly veiled consumerism and fanboy thread though


Also, what do you think of the cheaper Asian market flukes like the 17b
Thinking of getting one for the street cred and bragging rights that I don’t have to pay out of the nose for

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Chinese Flukes are good meters especially for the price. I've seen a few tear downs of them and they're built quite similarly to real Flukes. Only possible exception is the small "pocket" style meters which I think aren't really intended for working on mains voltages.

Thanks user, the guys in my class are going to be so jelly

>handhelds
Christ, step in up Jow Forums

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I have couple, Aneng AN8009, Uni-T UT210e and UT136B.

Just a good cheap digital multimeter.

I had a old analog before but some retarded used with my permission on high voltage, and turned the multimeter to a pile of black goo. Sadly no one got hurt.

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*without my permission

What do the 1.5V etc features do? Do they output that power or is it just for testing batteries?

better have a separate tool for that, must multimeters that have that feature, arent reliable.

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Those are battery testing functions.

Are the vacuum tubes just for show or was this considered a good idea at some point?

It's an old unit. Designed and manufactured when LEDs and 7-segment displays were new, cutting edge, and expensive. Nixie tubes were more economical back then. You don't see it in modern meters because LEDs and LCDs got a lot cheaper.

I also have two Fluke 8840As that are a bit newer and use VFDs for display which are still used now and then.

thats my field work go-to
its cheap and you feel it, but for field work the amp clamp is quite nicer to have than a shunt meter
Also have a Fluke 115 and UT505
were full

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imo VFDs look cooler than nixie tubes. I love the blue/green glow they give off and they're capable of much neater symbols

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Fluke 179 True RMS. RRP is around $580 in Australia, bought mine for $90 because the piezo speaker (for continuity check) was blown. Easily fixed, works fine now.

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Nice

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Based

Christ, how many decades since that thing's been calibrated?

It was recently calibrated before I purchased it. I've had it for a few years now and it's probably due for another calibration but I'm not too concerned. It's only used for home projects and it's still reading on point with my meters that are in cal.

>he uses a multimeter
>not just sticking your fingers in the socket like a chad and measuring the electricity flowing through you
cuck

even shit multimeters have that feature
how good it is is another thing entirely

Oh hai

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Reminder if you don't own a dedicated LCR meter for making actually reliable capacitance and inductance measurements as well as Q, ESR, and other parameters then you're just a retard that doesn't do any serious electronics work.

any recs for a cheap LCR meter
i kinda need one for the occasional repair job

didnt we have this thread yesterday
still, better than another eceleb/cpuwar/apple thread

I have one of these too, pretty good meter. Only issue I have is that the protection isn't great and I'm a little sketched out about using it on mains voltage, not something I need to do on a daily basis but once in a while I find myself needing the capability. (I live in a '30s house with a hodgepodge of wiring and fixtures and a lot of antique lamps etc, so lots of need for electrical troubleshooting.)

Brymen BM827s

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It's garbage, but even garbage is better than nothing.

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Fluke 1587 multi megger.

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Those cheap pieces of shit are not a substitute for a proper LCR meter.

Mine is this one but yellow

That user asked for cheap. It's good enough for most work. The measurements are pretty accurate and fast.

Holy shit, no it's not. It's good enough for component ID and literally nothing else. They're not even accurate. Inductor measurements are all over the place and can vary by +/- 50uH for the same value inductor. Plus these garbage boards can't measure capacitance under a few hundred pF they just refuse to work.

We have an LCR meter in this range where I work. This is a good LCR meter. Not the best you can get but still pretty good. Those cheap chinkshit testers are shit.

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Some cheap meters are like that, but this one works fine. Measurements are always consistent. Numbers don't jump all over the place. Capacitance works down to 30pF. Below that, it just says the cap can't be measured. You can read the spec sheet on the product listing.

I have a Fluke 23 that I got to keep when I was laid off years ago. It had been used by another tech before I was issued with it and all I've ever done is replace batteries.
If it's a good one, it's a Fluke.

Just use a wire. If it glows then you've got some current flowing.

>no 4-wire measurement
>no series/parallel selection
>no adjustable test frequency
>no DC bias
>unknown accuracy spec, probably not better than 10% if even that good, certainly not linear over the entire range it can test
>No impedance
>No dissipation factor
>no quality factor
>no phase measurements
>can't select a secondary measurement to display
>2 digit resolution

It's not worth wasting your money on this shit. Spend more and actually get a good instrument rather than deluding yourself into thinking you got a good deal for $20.

Could be a bit expensive for it's specs, but I love the design.

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>pic
based
FUCKING BASED

I've even used this lil' guy to measure voltages up to 10 KV

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Does everything I want, doesn't need a science degree to use.

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I had one just like OP's pic, but it was ruined when the batteries leaked.

Looks like it feels amazing up the pooper.

I see your $20 multimeter and I raise you my $5 one. See

>owning a meter without a fixed 10M input impedance

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

>2 digit resolution
It has 4 digits

I got it for $5. That user was asking for a cheap meter for occasional work. What's the point of spending hundreds of dollars for a tool that you don't use often, features you don't need at all, and with unnecessary complexity for basic work? Why are you comparing a bench meter with a portable handheld meter?

Yes it does. Sorry that's not a clear enough picture.

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Same internals, different plastic. We get them from China for $3~$5 a piece. If they drop and break we're not out anything.

Got this multimeter for 10$ pretty Spartan but works great

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That's a well used tool. You can tell it gets lots of usage. A proper electronics engineer doesn't need anything fancy because they are good at their jobs.

1990s early design. I like it.

That's the point I make. I bet you I can do more with then half these over spending cucks in this thread. The meter is only suppose to tell you what you should already be expecting. I find the complicated ones to just get in my way and slow me down.

>The meter is only suppose to tell you what you should already be expecting

yeah maybe if you're an electrician... not for an actual engineer though.

still using a windows phone, oh hai mate

>Old one started acting up last year.
>Bought the one on the right.
>Fixed the old one.
Now I have two.

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Fucking kids with your fucking digital trash.

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If that's not a FET VOM then it's equally as trash as every chinkshit DMM ITT.

You kids best watch out. Fluke 75 coming through.

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Hasn't failed me yet

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Mine has my name written all over it (so it didn't get confused with the other 9 orange Klein boxes on any given site) so I'm not going to post it. Klein MM600/Fluke 190-104 S

>actual engineer
What about regular engineers?

Just some cheap $20 one. I've built many audio projects with it though.

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naa, its a 5 bucks crap and im ashamed of it. it does cut it for my needs though

Why would engineers be measuring completely unknown values unless they're ghetto-rigging shit?

I never used it. I don't know how to use it. I forgot why I bought it. It's probably a piece of shit.

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What the fuck will Chinks integrate into one station next?

If you're testing a circuit without having a basic idea of what you're expecting from it, I would be hesitant to call you an engineer.