I'm gonna be in a very old (1940s) house for a while. Are there safe to use for a gaming PC?

Forgot pic

Attached: IMG_20190918_191100.jpg (3024x4032, 1.76M)

I'm retarded I would really appreciate an explanation

Attached: 1560027000405.png (376x294, 141K)

A lot of old wiring is better desu

He means you'll get electrocuted

>Look at this train wreck
That doesnt answer my question. What are you bonding your ground conductor/connection to

Your fine. I used top end machine with no grounding and blackouts and brown outs

not that user, but the protective ground rarely protects the electronics. in fact, if shit has hit the fan hard enough to need a protective ground, the electronics are generally the least of your worries. the real risk is to human life. the purpose of the ground is to provide an alternative path for electricity that comes from the "hot" but cannot return through the neutral. the reason one needs to be provided is because the electricity will find its way to ground, it doesnt care if its the neutral wire, the ground wire, or directly through you into the environment.

Attached: my_relation_to_this_topic.jpg (680x660, 92K)

He doesn't know. Explain like you're explaining it to a soccer mom.

The thing I bought says it has this. I should probably look up videos of it being tested but I don't even know what I'd look for.
He's right, I'm totally clueless. I just plug stuff in and hope I don't die

Attached: Screenshot_20190918-193906~2.png (1440x442, 96K)

>1940s
>very old
My house is more then a century old lol

You'll need to hook that connector to a source to ground. Standard code is a ground rod driven 6ft down into the soil. You can sometimes get away with grounding to plumbing, assuming it's metal and there is no PVC between you and ground. Radiators can work also.

If you use that connector without attaching the bottom connector to ground, you won't have a grounded outlet, just an ungrounded outlet that can accept a 3 prong plug.

T. Electrician.

What the fuck are you on about? Romex lasts thousands of years, cloth wiring disintegrates after a few decades.

Do you think it would be worth it to call an electrician to see if the adapters will be safe for the electronics I'm using? The house I'm in technically belongs to my aunt but I'm positive she doesn't know either.

Yes. Tell him you need to convert 2 prong outlets to grounded 3 prong plugs. He'll hook you up.

Fantastic, thanks user. I'm happy I asked.

thespruce.com/why-not-to-use-plug-adapters-1152432

Imagine if it's K&T. OP maybe will get his PC connected but the power draw will burn down his house.

Depends, in my area if the house K&B, it's a masonry home, that shit ain't burning down too easily.

Hey everyone I called my aunt to see which electrician I should talk to and she said that the electrician she recently hired assured her the converters are safe to use, which I'm supposing she paid for in preparation for my retardation.

Attached: sketch-1543084442130.png (1441x1440, 672K)

*K&T

No problem, good luck with everything. You could even turn the breaker off and open your outlet, if it has a bare copper wire in it, the electrician shouldn't charge you an arm and a leg. He may have to run new wire, in which case, it could be a little costly.

i dont get it, do you add another wire to ground it or is this just so your ground prong has somewhere to go?

Get an outlet tester-- it has 3 LEDs that light up in different combinations, it'll tell you for sure if your outlet is grounded or not. I wouldn't plug anything into an ungrounded outlet that I can't do without.

...

Short story is this: your outlets aren't grounded. Using those adapters on two prong outlets will NOT ground it. Theoretically, you'd be fine in optimal circumstances, however this is more than likely not an optimal circumstance.

Plumbing will get you wet if you mess up, Gen Contractors might hit their thumb with a hammer, messing up on electric will kill you. Take it very seriously.

Will do, got an Amazon link for your preferred one?
Even if the electrician says they're safe?

Greenlee or Klein makes good testers.

Yes. That’s a two plug outlet. In no circumstance will a two prong outlet provide ground unless it’s modified. They’re safe until _something goes wrong_

>Even if the electrician says they're safe?
Only if the electrician has tested it as well. That applies to every socket, with testing every ground as well.

So I should probably just look into the cost of replacing them regardless

Ground isn't *required* to make things work. But not grounding something and it has a fault, you will most certainly be electrocuted or blow something up. Probably both.

Eventually. If you ever want to sell the house, you’ll be required to switch to 3 prong outlets.

This. If you want to stay there, definitely have the house grounded and the outlets changed. If not, burning the house down if a very real concern.

Just get the place rewired. Shit isn't that expensive.

I've been living in an old piece of shit for 9 years with no ground, nothing has exploded yet.

Attached: 1567222376675.webm (432x768, 2.94M)

These don't really accomplish much of anything. You still don't have a natural ground, which is what the round pin is used for. At best it might (probably won't) fool UPS and surge protectors to stop them from complaining about wiring faults.

I was setting up a new machine with a 800W psu and a nextgen cpu and motherboard through a three prong to two prong converter in an old building. Was working in windows 10 for about 8 minutes and it shut off. Now it won’t POST. Did I fuck up my motherboard/cpu? Is that even possible?

>i like the tingling sensation when i open the fridge for a stale beer

The building's wiring might have been fucked up, yet another reason not to bother with this shit and just pony up for new wiring.

My grandparents house seemingly isn't grounded, I remember when I brought my gamershit keyboard which has a steel plate everything is mounted to, if I touched the metal with the tip of my finger and it was slightly wet I could feel a slight shock. Happened with PC cases before too. Never had such a thing happen at home, apartment building built in 2010.

Install GFCI socket. This is not only code, but it will save you in case PC fails

This is normal. FCC filters leak some electricity to ground, and in this case, in you.
Fix? Connect neutral to ground. This is not code, nor it is safe, but you won't get shocks.

This

This is eastern yurop, pretty much all the plugs in the house have been replaced and they have the grounding tab so I could connect those to ground, well if they would let me and I know they wouldn't. I just remembered I also had the same happen with a metal power strip once. Wasn't anything near a full 220vdc obviously.

You screw the outlet's plate screw through the little metal tab.

This is a question about equipment grounding.

Fundamentally, the purpose of the grounding connector is twofold:
1) To keep your equipment at the same potential as each other, and earth. This avoids your monitor being 50 volts higher (randomly) than say, your fancy gayman PC. This is important, because such a voltage difference could damage sensitive electronics, if that voltage difference equalized through a small conductor and/or chip on some board.
Since you'll be plugging your PC into (one would hope) a UPS with surge protection, your equipment will already have their grounding pins shorted together inside of it, so this won't be an issue for you.
2) To allow a safe path (NOT THROUGH YOU, in other words) to ground, in the event of a malfunction / failure. This is done by providing a preferential path (the ground terminal + wire) back to earth.
If you have quality equipment, and aren't a dumbass, this probably won't really be a big deal either. But, all the same, it's something to consider.
Additionally, some surge protectors attempt to redirect the current to ground when they trip, as opposed to just breaking the connection. This is recommended in their design of course, as simply breaking a connection with a few hundred thousand volts or way way more going through it will just give you a nice (not actually good for you) DC arc, and screw up the stuff you're trying to protect anyways.

Those adapters are hoping that the center wallplate screw will make contact with a metal box which will be earthed at some point in your house, and thus provide that path to ground. This is... not terribly effective and very unreliable in old buildings.

So, to answer your question:
Yes, it will probably be fine during normal operation. But it could defeat some surge protection devices' mechanisms, and possibly (unlikely) injure you if there were a malfunction.

>eastern yurop
If you live in commie block, it is not safe to connect neutral to ground pin, because, neutral might come loose in distribution closet, and you will get live voltage on case.
You must connect to ground there, closet case, idk, maybe special bar.

As for filter, it is pic related. You have capacitor based voltage divider, and you get half mains voltage on case.

Attached: 5-24.png (669x260, 13K)

there's just no ground. the electrician is either lying or someone along the way is misunderstanding. ungrounded might mean safe to him or your aunt might have asked the question wrong

Water pipe is also ground, no?

It is ground, but neighbors will kill you if you use it as ground.

Why? If it's earthed, your neighbors will definitely not notice if he's using it as ground.

You never know. We had a neighbor stealing electricity, and he used heating pipe as neutral. When I had enough of getting shocked, I went, disabled my circuit breaker (old ones will not trip you you jam something in it), and connected live wire to heating system. Apparently he got 380V on whatever he was stealing and it stopped him from using heating pipe as a ground.

That said, pipes are being replaced with plastic, and this situation might happen. Even at low currents.
Better use metal electrical panel as ground. This way only electricians would get roasted.

Neutral and ground in the household electrical system are VERY different. Normally, ground does not have any current flowing through it at all.

Also, it's doubtful that even if OP used the water line as neutral, that the neighbor in a house over would notice. It'd have already gone back to the power company's neutral via the earth. The voltage between the user in another house and that water pipe which enters their house would be like, 0.

Not all outlet boxes are metal.

A safe grounding point is something that's connected to a conductor that has full continuity to a ground rod (or an old water/sewer pipe).
Basically this. If your ground connection doesn't literally go to the earth/dirt/ground, its useless.

>Neutral and ground in the household electrical system are VERY different.
Not in soviet commie blocks. I don't know about 110/220V systems, but it is true for most 127/220 and 220/380.
>Normally, ground does not have any current flowing through it at all.
This is not exactly true, power supplies and other nasty things use it. Sometimes chink power supplies trip RCDs because capacitors failed short circuit.

Attached: system_tncs.png (800x430, 41K)

This. Water pipe is not the same as heat pipe. That said if the water pipe goes through a plastic segment you're screwed.

useless, you have no grounding, you don't know if you the box your outlet is in is meta, and grounder, it it none of those things it is useless.

On older outlets the center screw (that holds the faceplate) is often tied to ground. The adapter has a tab, through which the faceplate screw is driven (hopefully) tieing it to ground. But this is only true if the outlet was installed correctly, and that is not always the case. Also the surface of the screw touching the tab and going in needs to be bare metal, and not painted or coated.

I agree, follow your heart

Having all your outlets converted to GFCI is not code, you need them in outdoor areas, kitchens, bathrooms and anywhere that can become wet/damp. When one GFCI is on a circuit, anything connected after it through the load terminals are also GFCI protected.

The panel it self does not provide ground, it provides a path to the grounding rod.

This is why you don't fuck with the neutral. You can and will get hit off of it if you're not careful. GROUNDING to a water pipe (with no PVC in the run) is fine, as it essentially serves the same purpose as the ground rod anyway. Heating pipes and plumbing are not the same, one is 100% grounded, the other is a crapshoot.

Fun fact: the water meter in your house needs to be "jumped", meaning you have to connect the inlet and outlet portions of the pipe to eachother, otherwise you'll kill yourself if you get between the water meter.

Again kids, don't fuck with electricity unless you know what you're doing.

Attached: 1567976806148.jpg (875x980, 138K)

Ok smart guys, so what the fuck are you supposed to do? Never use any electronics? Replace the wiring and electrical for the whole building?

Really it just sounds like youre saying "just live in a modern building like me, lmao"

Without any solutions that dont require you to own the building and shell out tens of thousands of dollars.

Fun fact #2: If your service wire coming into the house goes through an ungrounded metal pipe, your breakers will not trip.

Listen fucktard, all you need to do is ground the outlet. I outlined exactly what you need earlier in the thread. Open up the reciptical, connect an insulated ground to the ground terminal of the outlet, string it across your fucking bedroom and out the window to a ground rod driven 6 feet in the ground. You're grounded now. Wow. So fucking hard.

Don't do this, you'd be better off leaving it ungrounded than basically connecting a lightning rod to your pc.

What makes you think the current would go into the PC? Electricity will always go to GROUND. That's the basic functionality that literally this whole modern world is based off of.

It's not difficult to install your own ground-to-neutral wiring, just routing the wires through the walls can be a little annoying. All you have to do is unscrew or shut off all the breakers before working on it, the right wire and mounting gear should be less than $40.

With that said ungrounded power isn't -as- dangerous for electronics as we make it out to be. A quality PSU has enough protection. I've had PSUs fail from multiple power-outs on good grounded wiring and I have a 6 year old PSU that still has all volt lines supplying out-of-the-box stable after living in a house with no ground for 2 years, with a few power outages..

You can only do this if your panel bonds the neutral and groundbar. If you're in a sublet building such as an apartment, you may be on a subpanel, which does not bond the ground and neutral.

Good way to die.

>Having all your outlets converted to GFCI is not code
I'm not sure, since obviously I'm not in 110V, but I think you can't install sockets with ground pin in house without ground, unless it is GFCI socket. Also you should add label like "no ground, GFCI only". At least I was told so.
>The panel it self does not provide ground, it provides a path to the grounding rod.
True. There must be designated grounding terminal block thing, where PE-N and ground rod are connected. Though soviet commie blocks don't have one (because ground is western lie), thus people were using heating pipes, water pipes, or metal casing of distribution panel.
>This is why you don't fuck with the neutral. You can and will get hit off of it if you're not careful.
Not in commie blocks with TN-C-S. It is basically connected to ground.
Only time you get shocked, is when neutral disconnects from transformer.
>GROUNDING to a water pipe (with no PVC in the run) is fine,
In privately owned house. Not in commie blocks where niggers steal electricity like that.
I think there were at least dozen of cases, where somebody died trying to take a shower, because of somebody stealing electricity.
Electricity meters are evil
> Heating pipes and plumbing are not the same, one is 100% grounded, the other is a crapshoot.
In soviet commie blocks they all are grounded. We get city hot water, and heating.
>Fun fact: the water meter in your house needs to be "jumped", meaning you have to connect the inlet and outlet portions of the pipe to eachother, otherwise you'll kill yourself if you get between the water meter.
Aren't meters made out of brass?

1) Dude is in a house
2) That $40 includes creating the ground bus bar, creating a grounded stake somewhere, and mounting the wires appropriately

The easiest solution to this problem is to have an electrician install GFCI protected outlets and/or circuit breakers in your house so that you'll have some ground fault protection rather than none. It's possible to protect multiple outlets in a circuit with just a single GFCI outlet but each circuit should have GFCI protection at minimum. More recently bedrooms and I believe hallways are supposed to have arc-fault protection as well.

The OP is probably in middle America where most of the building standing day were made between the 50s and the 70s.

How does arc fault work?

Grounding is a meme, it's safety theater.

Attached: download.jpg (500x409, 29K)

zero iq post

FUCK higher education, amirite? electricity is __FAKE NEWS__

I'm not entirely sure how they work but they detect when there's a severe electrical arc that is capable of starting a fire like from a frayed cable or from line to neutral or ground. They come as circuit breakers and also as outlets and look the same as GFCI outlets on the surface but they detect completely different faults.

>Aren't meters made out of brass?
Yes, but removing the meter without an alternate pathway through the pipe can be potentially fatal if you touch both ends of the pipe where the meter was.

>Electricity meters are evil
Yeah, here in the states we have radio controlled meters and proprietary barrel locks, which won't allow you pull the meter in case of an emergency.

Commie electric sounds terrifying. Don't you fuckers solder your connections?

What makes you think OP is in anyway qualified to install a ground bar? I suggested he get an actual qualified and licensed electrician from the start.

Explain to me how electricity would get to ground through an ungrounded PC rather than through a grounding bar specifically designed to direct current into the earth? Where do you think the ground going back to the panel goes to? It literally goes to a rod in the ground.

Hm. Does this mean I can't run tesla coils that use arc anymore?
Pfff. Progress.

Getting an associate's from community college isn't "higher education" lmao

user just solder a wire to the bottom and lead the wire outside soldered to a 6 foot copper rod and drive the rod into the ground.

grounding isn't for your safety, it's for the safety of your power supply.

This

Hmm...couldn't the ground bar method be potentially dangerous to pets and people outside? Imagine if there was a big power surge, you could have your whole front yard become electrified.

You don't need grounding as long as you have a surge protector + ups.

do you even know what grounding is?

Attached: ghgdhssffs.png (1261x820, 15K)

Electricity dissipates as it reaches ground, it doesn't turn the ground all shocky. If the potential to ground is less resistant through your pet than through the grounding wire and rod, bye bye fido.

how costly?

>Yes, but removing the meter without an alternate pathway through the pipe can be potentially fatal if you touch both ends of the pipe where the meter was.
This is why you should run at least 30 mA to the ground, so nigger that decided to steal your meter gets a nice shock.
>Yeah, here in the states we have radio controlled meters and proprietary barrel locks, which won't allow you pull the meter in case of an emergency.
In soviet shitholes (and pretty much everywhere else) they use seals and nothing fancy, but it will not help you, because meter is not socketed, but connected with screws.
>Commie electric sounds terrifying. Don't you fuckers solder your connections?
We have innovative connection. Self-welding copper and aluminium...
In reality, we use everything, from simple wire twist (which is not a code), to Wago, crimp, solder, wire nut, weld (yes, weld), terminal blocks, etc.

Attached: 1523496783191078895.png (1200x1200, 351K)

FOR PROFIT education is for IMBECILS and KIKES, public education is a JOKE!!

i live in a house that was built in the early 60's and use a cord that i diked the third prong off with cutters no issues with things blowing up.

Depends where your room is. The closer to the panel, the shorter of a run it'll be, which means less in material. I'd figure shelling out at bare minimum $200.

>Screwed in meters
>welded connections
Yeah... fuck that, man.

Grounding *is* for personal safety. It may protect other things but its intended to protect you above all else. When you ground something you're putting it at the same potential as the electrical ground. If you don't ground it the voltage is allowed to "float" which means it can vary depending on a number of factors. If the object's potential floats high and you touch it and at the same time happen to be touching something else with a low potential you will get shocked. The amount of current that floats from high to low can be quite high too. Sometimes it high enough to be hazardous. Metal things around water are particularly dangerous because water reduces the resistance of your skin to very low levels allowing a significantly greater amount of current to flow when you get shocked. Everything around a pool is supposed to be "bonded" together and grounded to the same potential to avoid hazardous transient voltages