/hpg/ - Headphone General

Thoughts on the fiio k3?

>120mW @ 32 Ohms
too weak it is a waste of money

need a cheap amp/dac for my k712's
fx audio dac x6 worth it? feel free to recommend cheaper

that is a 105 dB SPL/V and 62 Ohms pair of headphones
you dont and an amp

>need a cheap amp/dac for my k712's
>fx audio dac x6 worth it?
Yeah.

they're still notoriously hard to power, look it up

Why do you fags shill the DX3Pro so hard?

youtube.com/watch?v=-AsJ-NXmibk

Your post sure brings back memories.

Denon D2000 was one of the first "real" headphones that I bought when I started this hobby. I remember them being crazy bright but not in a good way, they needed a lot of modifications (see: Lawton mods) to make them listenable.

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DISCRETE EVERYTHING

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thanks for the assurance dude

I'm considering a detachable cable mod, but I'm too lazy and I know I'll fuck it up.

Maybe one day.

It's not needed desu, since it's easy AF to solder a new cable directly onto the driver assembly.

If you like the sound consider getting modern Fostex cans since these Denons are made by them. I quite like the TH600 and TH900, they maintain the same overall V-shaped sound signature but much less offensively bright and have thicker midrange.

1st(only) for ENG GAME

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Do you miss NwAvGuy?

Not really now that Amirm took over his mantle.

I miss hifi heaven

2 months with my HD 599, pretty happy with them

I'd use the IEM thread but it keeps fucking dying and disappears for a long time. Don't know where else to go so I'm just going to ask here

>Budget
150$, don't want to spend more than that unless it is absolutely worth the money
>Location
Samsung S9
>Type
Bluetooth/Wireless IEM. I know that I won't get the same quality as wired and that it's a meme, but I often walk a lot to places and I don't want to deal with wires.
>Sound Signature
Neutral

I'll never understand you audio autists, the increased definition I can hear from my more expensive headphones over my porta pros barely matters and I just use the porta pros most of the time since I can throw them around without worrying too much, the more expensive ones are good because they have active noise cancelling though

it's the same as seeing some moderate resolution jpg piece of art over some insanely high resolution png version of it, sure the high res png one is better but I enjoy the piece of art just the same looking at the jpg as long as it's reasonable

Just some chinese IEMs.

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KZ ZS10 Pro + bluetooth cable.

Whatever point you set your personal diminishing returns is not the same as everyone else. Some people have the logic understood as they will use this equipment every single day until it breaks, which for most stuff, is 5+ years. It's like buying a passable bed mattress. Sure it's half the price, but a better mattress is better.

>being autistic over other people being autistic

Don't wanna make general audio thread.
LSR 306P MkII or 308P MkII? Or something different?
It's just for home listening, room's not very big, but I don't mind something that will last and have some flexibility regarding usage. Or is that outright bad for smaller room? The 308s are in a discount right now for $140 (+VAT, am an eurofag too so take that into consideration), but they apparently have last two pieces. Usual price is more like $200 (+VAT).

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What is the optimal DAC/Amp combo that represents good value for an HD58X and/or a Fidelio X2?

Fostex HP-A4

my previous headphones the m50x degraded so fucking badly, the drivers work alright but the fake leather headband peeled off eventually and now it's too disgusting to use

my newer headphones are in good condition still but I learned to not trust them to last if I for example throw them in a backpack or place them on my head right after shower

Topping DX3Pro now fuck off
FUCKING NEWFAGS ASKING THE SAME FUCKING QUESTIONS EVERY FUCKONG THREADS
FUCKING SHUT THE FUCK UP.

Was about to say HPA-4BL but is cheaper and has pretty much the same result (iirc different chip and lesser DSD support but sounds the same)

>Fostex
Don't they make snappers?

Too expensive anyway. I don't want to invest that much more in the Amp/DAC than I did in the Headphones themselves.

But what's a good bluetooth cable with really high quality? I keep seeing people say to just get some cheap pair off of aliexpress but I don't trust them whatsoever, so I'm looking for a cable that's worth the price.

Depends on the headphone, I guess. My old technics RPDH1200's survived 7 years of deck beating, daily pushbike commutes with bushrides home. The cable perished before the faux leather, but it's hard to expect pleather to withstand oil, sweat and salt.
Todays cans can barely survive a year without snapping mounts, it seems. I'm just happy my 7xx's are only sagging with the stupid elastic suspenders and nothing else. Any organic oil kinda kills the plastic most shit's made of, unfortunately.

Then fx audio dac X6

I'd like headphones where you can change the headband
I now use the sony 1000xm3 and they're alright but I bet they will be disgusting in a year or two unless I treat them like an autist, also apparently some of the plastic likes to snap on them, from regular use...

i need something for my mum, she's slightly deaf

budget is around 100 usd, anything more and i may as well step up to the sony xm3
over ear
wireless

Probably should include a buyer's advice pastebin in the op. Nobody new to these threads reads and updates those wikis.

Thanks.

Is there anything in particular I'd be giving up compared to whatever I could get with an extra $100? Cause it costs less than half of what the HD58X costs, and 1/3 of what the Fidelio X2 costs. For example, someone told me the E10k is trash and not worth getting under any circumstance.

So much for my HP-2. I swear I didn't even notice this bit was plastic or I wouldn't have spent any amount of money on them. Are there any replacement parts I can order, preferably steel and not fucking cheap chink plastic that breaks after feeling the heat of human skin on it?

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What's the best bluetooth cable for IEMs on the market?

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This one is always high, I wish it had a high/low gain switch, and a high/medium/low gain switch. It is always so High that for low impedance headphones I have to turn my music sources down, really down, My hard-to-drive headphones don't get passed 9 o'clock before getting too loud.

>Is there anything in particular I'd be giving up compared to whatever I could get with an extra $100?
You could probably get something with a balanced out or more power, but it's really not worth considering with what you have, now if you plan on going high end planar in the future that's another story.
Really the good thing with it in my opinion is it's decently powerful, cheap and has all 3 main input (I'd seriously avoid USB though) and external power.

Nope you can't unless you have the ability to recreate and 3D print the part but that won't be metal.
Can probably ghetto rig something to bring them back to being usable.

Well it's also 60 bucks, can't have everything, it also doesn't cut the back RCA when you have an headphone plugged which I don't care about but is apparently a problem in some installations.

Do you have any useful guides for repair on them or anything I can use at all? I loved these headphones like a kid loves that one blanket they take with them everywhere, my heart broke when I felt it go loose.

I don't and i'm probably not the best person to advise you on that, I'd probably just dump superglue in the thing to get it usable again
High quality glue will last much longer though, if there's a big missing chunk that would call for epoxy / UV resin instead but I'm not very good at DIY shit so that would most likely be where I fail or give up before failing and just asks someone who knows better
There's most certainly thousands of guides or people asking the same questions out there you'll probably have a better idea of how to do that if you read / watch a few guides.

It'd help if I knew what the exact part it. It seems like pretty much any headset that has plastic connecting it to the band is going to fucking break there, I use to have a headset with a similar "plastic guard" thing keeping it together and they got hairline cracks and broke in the same exact way. I always figured it was because they were cheap pieces of shit, though, and thought for sure these $250 headphones wouldn't be made of fucking baked play-doh that breaks after a year of very gentle careful use.

You will lose the cup rotation but that won't rebreak immediately
head-fi.org/threads/fix-completely-cracked-and-broken-headphones-guide.551961/

How are HD650s?
I can buy new for around 90 usd but I've already got LCD-2c.

I'll try this as a last resort, I don't have immediate access to a lot of tools necessary and I doubt I could pull off as clean of a repair job as they did. From the looks of it I don't think I can do shit unless I get someone to make a piece for me to replace it. I'm going to take it down to a notably competent audio store tomorrow to see if by some slim chance they can fix it.
I was also told baking soda and super glue mixed together might be enough to keep it together, but I'm also interested in reinforcing it so this doesn't happen again. These headphones are too comfortable and too expensive to just give up like that, and I can't describe the emotion I have losing this over such a fucking retarded break.

I really wish they'd stop making this shit out of plastic; I'd be fully willing to pay even double the price for this if it were made of more durable materials, and I'm apprehensive about spending any money to repair it because I have no idea how long until the next bit breaks.

Thanks for the help though, I know a guy at college whose an apprentice metallurgist and he might be able to make some better patches on it without losing the cup rotation.

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Maybe try some Tamiya plastic cement? It literally welds plastic together and after that you could try reinforcing it with something.

They all suck. Based shanling will release one soon so we can wait for these.

Discrete DACs suck balls though.

I'll look into that, thank you.
As for reinforcing it, some people on forums recommend drilling small holes into certain points and anchoring it with strong wire, but I'm very apprehensive about putting any more holes into this considering most of the structure is plastic and if I'm going to be drilling anything into it I may as well try the steel-sheeting method since that seems to be the best way to reinforce it externally.

>mentally ill shotafemslut

Would you like a mod that boosts upper mids and low treble by crazy increase like 3-5 db and soundstage?

>solves headphpnes

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I I just suicided one of my IEMs and I'm real sad about it. Is there one of a similar quality, maybe better, in the ~$60-150 range? Thanks

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um, no. Research has shown that the vast majority of people, in blind testing, prefer a flat frequency curve. That can change somewhat with volume, because our ears are less sensitive to deep bass, so at lower volumes people may prefer a bit more bass.

I got some IEMs and can't figure out how to get them in. I can use the twisty noise blocking ones fine, but I like the silicone tips better because I want to be able to hear some ambient sounds when walking. I have tried some different sizes of the tips but they all don't seem to seal at all and my music sounds like tin.

What am I doing wrong? I can't twist the silicone ones..

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Ok let's see, high treble -3db decrease, low treble +4db increase, upper mids 1.5 db increase. What you thinking about it?

nigger bass

I think having an intentional 7dB swing between the lower and upper treble is retarded. The lower treble would be more than double the volume of the upper treble. Our ears are most sensitive between 2 and 5 kHz, because of the resonance of the ear canal and the transfer function of the ossicles of the middle ear. The evolutionary reason stems likely from the frequency that babies cry.

Depends on volume level. In a headphone you should really not be listening at very high volumes, and our ears are less sensitive to low frequencies as the volume goes lower, so to offset that and make things sound as intended an increase in deep bass can be added. The amount added at 20Hz is much more than at 40Hz and amount added at 40Hz is way more than at 60Hz. You can look up equal loudness curves for reference. There are some disagreements in how much, or what the correct curves are, but, it is the basis for things like Audyssey Dynamic EQ.

Is pic related the most polarizing headphones ever made?

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>sony 1000xm3
are these good? I started wanting new headphones a few days ago and was gonna go with these but I now see all this stuff about response graphs etc

All headphones are shit, I don't know why that one would be more polarizing than anything else. You either like a particular sound or you don't, headphones are all coloured.

>headphones are all coloured
Besides 650 modded

>headphones are all coloured.
The 660 S appears to be entirely black and I know of certain other headphones which do not feature any color.

>Budget
sub $100, though i'm flexible
>Location
EU
>Source
pc shit motherboard
>Type of headphone
full
>Open or closed
probably closed
>Comfort level
should be comfy

i want to buy sth with my new gaming pc, mostly for games, though i'm not gettin GAMING OC OVERPOWER COOMER ULTRA GIGA RAZER KRAKEN YUR MUM 9000 ANAL RUPTURE SOUND SYSTEM
for years i used some Panasonic, for 15 years, but they broke 3-4 years ago and since then i was playing on some shitty steelseries siberia i got from sale
i don't remember Panasonic model, but it was very good, my dad used to take them from me when he wanted to listen to music

what do you guys think of Zeos Pantera? Is he as bad at reviewing headphones as he is with speakers?

Kek

>tfw you just spent about an hour finding a spare cable for a pro82 and only then realize you can use Bose QC cables for it
Fuck me

Are they?

I fucking love mine.

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Jds labs atom + khadas tone board

you really asking this me? sheepfag

I'm at a bit of a dilemma. I bought a pair of WH-1000XM3, and they sound okay (but only after using Viper4Android FX + AutoEQ github preset), and they're great at blocking low frequencies.
However, the 'occlusion effect' when walking/running sucks, and they cannot block absolutely everything due to the nature of ANC.
In my search for great sound and better isolation, I started researching custom in-ear monitors.
However, the variables with IEM autism are endless, and the prices get very steep. And while they might sound better and isolate more noise, apparently the occlusion effect might be even worse.
My question is, is there a chance of getting a better music/noise isolation experience by going the IEM route AND remain within the same budget as a pair of WH-1000XM3?
If IEMs are not the way, is there another better choice (also within the same budget)?

Will the HD600 sound better than the 599 even if I don't have a dedicated amp?

this me?

asking me this* haha

not worth it. Save for an actual upgrade.

Got a new tube for XDuoo ta-10.
God, lcd2c's sound gorgeous with it. The vocals are comfy af.

???
I don't have any headphones right now.

yeah, I am?

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Then just go for 6xx.

Bought a ZMF Verite Limited!
I think I'm done with audio for now.

Source: ADI 2 dac + THX AAA
Iems: Campfire andro golds
Cans: Verite Desert Ironwood

These are in order of best to worst.
What do you think hpg?

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Are there tangle-resistant or flat cables for the ZS series? I've gone through 3 of the shitty braided ones because they keep tying themselves up

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>tfw you run out of idea on how to test your headphones and start playing ear rape videos to see how fatiguing they are
I've officially lost control

I only use digital.
get on my level fags

If only Hifimans cheaper headphones featured that design as well. Besides the Sundara everything in their "entry" level premium range looks like hot garbage.
And I don't just mean ugly, but cheap and under engineered

Zeos is a straight up scam artist. He lives off the referral links, and he is willing to sell basically any garbage as long as there is a kick back to him. He uses the following formula:

>appeal to weebos with anime figures/wallpaper
>shill obscure chink crap that just launched with no actual reviews other than him hyping it up. He always includes a referral link and tells his audience to buy it from there.
>spends 90 of time talking about nerdy weeb shit and cables and "how amazing it feels", then just a minute on sound where he gushed wildly over anything whose. manufacturer hives him. kickbacks. The more the kickback, the better the product according to him.

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