/KTG and /BG

Knives, machetes, swords, axes, scythes, and buying/sharpening advice.

Post em'

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coldsteel.com/latin-machete-plus-18.html
kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=SH2060
twitter.com/AnonBabble

A topic; Project knives.
I've been thinning and convexing the geometry of the Ontario SP-10 in pic related for a long time now. Besides polishing, it's now finished. The difference in performance is amazing, it now actually bites in and slices instead of bouncing off 2" branches. Probably going to do the same to the Ontario Woodsman.

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Page 9 bump, not many knife fags on Sunday

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5th knife ive made. still deciding what to do with the handle. im thinking elk antler

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Nice what steel you use? Is a scandi grind or does it have a secondary bevel?

Very interesting blade shape, I like it. Can't quite tell from the photo, is the top and bottom transitions from the tang to blade radiussed at all? looks like it could be a stress point.

Would be great to see it finished once the handle is on.

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>Nice what steel you use?
a worn out antique Nicholson file
>Is a scandi grind or does it have a secondary bevel?
well i want to make it a Scandi grind but it might take too long. the blade is still annealed and the edge is about half the thickness of a dime. i dont want to grind the edge all the way to an acute edge and then have it warp in the fire, but once its hardened it will be a real bitch to bring the bevel all the way to the edge with stones
>Very interesting blade shape, I like it
thank you. i was going for a bowie style blade but i was heavily influenced by the look of the Cold Steel SRK and that Fallkniven knife
>Can't quite tell from the photo, is the top and bottom transitions from the tang to blade radiussed at all? looks like it could be a stress point.
they are hard 90 degree angles. i made a simple brass guard that slides up the tang to the ricasso and sits against that shelf, but like i said im not dead set on a handle design. i guess i probably should radius those edges off

Coldsteel is good

I like them, never had a problem with them, and I have several knives and machetes.

excellent knives FOR THE MONEY

muh african bushwacker

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I'm gonna spend this Summer fishing. I'm looking for a good fillet knife. I know nothing about fillet knives. Recommendations?

All sounds good to me.

Depends on what product. For the most part their folders and fixed blades are good to great for the money. I would avoid anything made of 4116 though. Some of their knives are exceptional value like the Code 4 in my pic related.

Their machetes are great but need work to get good, a lot of edge work in particular, but they are cheap enough and strong enough that I still recommend.

Their swords are a no go, in general they are balanced like crow bars, and have very bad quality control.

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Thanks for the recommendations my dudes

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coldsteel.com/latin-machete-plus-18.html
I got this guy a while ago and its still in fantastic shape. The coating is unresonably strong, and the saw back is actually pretty good. I've used it to cut though stuff thats 5< inches..
Kida related, does anyone know how to get pine sap off of a machete without damaging the coating?

muh knives, recently added a military surplus mora 1. thinking of getting a clock knife next, should i?

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Excellent choice Jow Forumsomrade

If you want sth fancy look at Marttiini if you want great bang for the buck the mora fish knives are to be considered.

Any recommendations for getting it sharp? The edge is rather weak...

a good rule of thumb is the sharpness from the factory is as sharp you can reliably get it.

no, this is not a good rule of thumb, if you have a stone and a leather belt, any knife can become very very sharp, depending on the grit of your stone ofcourse, but generally what has more to do with "sharpness" as in. thinness of the extreme edge is the angles of the edge, a wider edge, a duller feeling blade, a thinner edge a sharper feeling blade, but also a SIGNIFICANTLY weaker blade, thats why theres a thickness difference between a razor and a BK2

however, saying that the factory edge is any kind of indication of the potention sharpness of a blade is just false, it may play a role in edge retention as the steel in very cheap knives is garbage.

but factory edge, has NO bearing on how sharp you can make a knife, with a bit of work of course

I don't think thats a good rule man.

Bullshit

You can get it way sharper, if you want too
The thing is, you don't want most knifes as sharp as you can because you propably loose edge retention and you don't want that on knifes for the hard work.

I only get my smaller and pocketknifes to razor sharpness and most of the times I polish it too pic related
Enzo necker wich came almost dull

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Opinions on Allegheny knife works?
They seem pretty legit and lm thinking of getting their m60.

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ive got a question about that Ontario. whats the grip feel like? rubber, sticky, hard plastic? stuff like that.

What would you do if you had one of these?

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I’ve got some various reproduction WW2 fighting knives and a couple authentic bayonets, what’s the best method for sharpening them?

cant belive you can sharp at all.

I have 2 knifes
1st for work
>10$ Mora with a microege to sharpen it faster
2nd for leaving the house
>500$ custom combat knife
>sharpen to the limit
>splits single hairs
>could cut tonns of paper and shave hairs afterwards
>NEVER use it after sharpening to get the edge ready for combat

A 3rd knife should be a shit Mora without sharpen it after buying, because It hurts my heart when the edge gets contact with glas,metal, dirt´n shit.

Don't sharpen them you fucking flamer! That kills the value!

My high school homework.

Run the edge against your fingernail, If It bites and doesn't slide, It's sharp.

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Would anyone know where to buy a claymor (not the explosive but the sword) I've been wanting to get one for a while.

Step 1: make pipe bomb
Step 2: add ball bearings
Step 3: ????
Step 4: Profit!

They’re Turkish/Yugo bayonets, they don’t really have collector value

first you determine if they are worth sharpening or not. aka yugo ak bayonet pile of trash not worth the effort yugo mauser decent enough steel to sharpen. then you use whatever tools you have on hand to the best of your ability. if those tools are nothing and youve never sharpened you buy some cheapass doublesided whetstone and practice on cheap kitchen knives. if those tools are something you should know how to use em since they are your tools and you use what you have.

>coldsteel.com/latin-machete-plus-18.html
I don't have any expirence with the saw back, is it any good? My first CS machete is/was a 24" Latin, I used it for years, till one day I had it on my belt as I was hiking up a stream, I slipped on a rock and bent the machete tip to handle... It had a 5 degree set in it, and I could not get it straight. Now I use it for cutting roots and such.

Yeah I have to agree with the others... Factory sharp in general is what I would call "work sharp"... Good enough for most normal uses, but could be much better. The vast majority of knives with little exception, (some exceptions such as knives from Rockstead) can be made much sharper with the right equipment and practice.

Unfortunately OKC knives come with a stupid thick edge... It is going to take a lot of work to reprofile it to a proper edge. I'm guessing it is probably around 25-28DPS (Degrees per side) based off my SP-10... Your best bet is sending it out to someone for sharpening, or taking the time to do it yourself, but it will take some time and practice to do it right.

I assume you mean the SP-10, the wooden handle knife in that pic is also an Ontario. It is a rubbery grip, I would say it is pretty good, especially for the price.

Throw it in the trash

What for? Just to hang on your wall or do you want to cut bottles or tatami with it? And I assume you mean the stereotypical claymore.

For cheap, yet functional for light use, I would recommend the Hanwei one.
kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=SH2060

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