Fitz specials are still safer than Glocks edition. Post your wheelgats. Feel superior to auto fags. bitch about S&W locks. You know how we do.
Revolver General
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Ian just did a video on the Fitz special.
Not a revolver. You have earned one demerit.
>but our forefathers could never imagine guns with more than _____ shots!
How hard and how costly would it be to make a Ranger Sequoia?
Using a Bison Bull as a base would be more authentic but a Magnum Research BFR is more affordable and easily available even in California.
>how costly
This is one of those "If you have to ask you can't afford it scenarios". If you are rich I'd contact Bowen Classic Arms and see what they think they can do.
You don't say.
What a coincidence that fw has a video and someone starts a thread on the same subject.
Shocking, I say... just shocking.
>bob the hammer because it’s a snag point
>bob the trigger guard to make a snag point that fires the weapon
Forget modern safety sensibilities.
They completely undermine what they are going for by bobbing the trigger guard like that.
I post fitz pics all the time and usually just link the wiki page when people ask WTF is that? Saw the Ian vid. Came to post vid link in revolver bread. See no revolver bread. Started revolver bread.
They were going for speed not safety.
>”forget modern safety sensibilities”
Yeah a fat snag point is fantastic for speed isn’t it? Just because that’s what they “were going for” doesn’t mean it’s correct now does it?
All it would help with to any tangible degree is gloved shooting.
Well if you ever invent a time machine you can go back to the 1920s-30s and set them straight.
This looks like a nice thread for people who know their onions.
My friend who is from Genoa told me that Chiappa means butt cheek in Italian.
It's always been clear that the designer of the Rhino was some bottom fag.
The snag points when taking the gun out of a jacket pocket are the snag points that matter. The bobbed trigger guard is not such a snag point.
What annie may is that?
Another thread led me down a rabbit hole that landed right on a semi-Fitz special.
>May I suggest that Mr. Bond be armed with a revolver?
lettersofnote.com
"Boothroyd provided illustrator Richard Chopping with his own .38 Smith & Wesson snubnosed revolver, modified with one third of the trigger guard removed, to meet Fleming's wish for a design incorporating a pistol and a rose for the first edition cover of From Russia, with Love."
en.wikipedia.org
youtube.com
Boothroyd was Jow Forums as fuck.
I have a budget of $500 and would like to purchase a first handgun, with the goal of CC once I get my license next year. Is trying to find a used S&W 686 a bad idea?
Used is the way to go on wheelgats imo. Most people just don't shoot much and you can save monies for more ammo. 686 is top tier so no worries there. Might be a bit big for CC but that's my subjective opinion. For sure you will probably pay more for a more easily CC'd size version(2 or 3"bbl) as opposed to the much more common 4" guns.
After a quick browse around gunbroker $500 is looking a little short for a clean used 686. $600 is more doable.
Thank you for your help! I'll save a bit more money. I think I can carry the 686 on my frame decently enough, so I decided the 4" barrel is the way to go.
A 4" medium frame .357 is about as do-all a handgun as it's possible to have. I think you will enjoy it.
Would a Ruger Single Six be a decent first firearm? I've fired some semi-automatics before, but otherwise have no experience. I like the idea of a single-action for learning on, and figure that a .22 is the best place to begin for both ease of firing and affordability.
>I like the idea of a single action for learning on
Why? It makes no sense. Double action revolvers typically allow you to shoot single action anyway, so you would just be buying a gun that would have fewer features for no real reason.
I'd go for this Ruger instead. You can still shoot single action but you can also practice your double action gunfighter skills.
I really want an old school blued s&w j frame .38. I can buy one new for about $700 (with the stupid lock) or I can get one used for much less. I worry a lot about cylinder wobble and other shit that won't be easily seen in pics on gunbroker. Does anyone have any advice I what I should look for?
its only useful for learning on if the next gun planned is a singleaction army. those are fun guns but the majority of skills gained with it will not transfer over to other pistols.
Pre-lock is the way to go imo. As far as minimizing risk on Gunbroker only buy guns with a stated inspection period(or ask seller about it is it says"unspecified" so you can return it if it has issues you don't want to deal with.
you really can't tell by pics, but a S&W Model 10 is cheap enough to take a chance on. a police trade in is usually good since chances are it's barely been fired.
Buy this and put some sweet wood on it and larp as a space cop from the year 2169.
Anyone else enjoy meme filters?
Yes, teenage girls.
Single action spinbois
Should a GP100 be blued or stainless?
I liked blued, mainly because Ruger has this shiny nickel on all their stainless guns. Kind of turns me off.
Honestly, I prefer the matte stainless that Smith and Taurus use.
>blued
But only if they drop the billboard logo on the barrel, otherwise stainless
I picked up one of those S&W Model 10 police trade ins. Lots of holster wear, and those mother fuckers used red loctite on the screws.
I'm still waiting on a soldering iron in the mail to get the last one out.
Top kek, how are those RIA snubbies
Is a snub nosed .38 good for EDC and CC?
>Auto Fags
Hey fuck you too man