/rg/ Reloading General

lmao reloading is for poorfags who cant afford quality match ammo. you niggers are like little pakis and chinks hovering around tapping shit pouring powder like youre making firecrackers in a chinatown basement. ima laugh when one of you faggots blows up

>ima
apparently your rich city-boy education went to waste

How much strength does that take though? With a table and lever arm you get good leverage, how hard is it to use that and form the brass?

That's m855a1, try gunbroker

90% of the gay male community is into reloading!

LoadMaster for bulk stuff well below max loads, typically with powder coated cast lead boolits - 300BLK, 223 and 45ACP
Lee Breech lock for anything that I want to pay close attention to for accuracy or because of max pressure levels: 460 Rowland, 30-30, 6.5CM, 7.62RFN, match 223

Is there anything I can do to fix zinc contaminated ingots?

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It really depends. If I'm FL sizing 30-06 or 280 it does take quite a bit, but for most of my reloads I only neck size which isn't that bad. If I had room for a table I would have one, but there isn't much room for one on a 55 foot sail boat.

>8x56R
>Where do you get bullets?
grafs.com/retail/catalog/category/categoryId/925?

Yes, because a poor fag is going to dump hundreds of dollars into presses, dies, and components. Just because you are too fucking stupid to wrap your head around it doesn't make it pointless.

No
Atleast not outside of some type of laboratory
Sorry
You might be able to dribble it into shot and gradually "loose" half an ounce here and there into like 10 lbs of good melt, and maybe use it up in a few months/years.

Lee Classics are pretty great for the money, I'm glad I didn't spend more on a single stage unless I jumped up to the Co-Ax price range.

My problem with reloading is that I always find stuff that appeals to my love of over-building things, I like stuff that's built like a battleship and has a simple and industrial look. Stuff like this Wilson case trimmer, I love how it operates but also the fact it's just a big, heavy chunk of machined steel. I also paid money for some solid Mitotoyo dial calipers despite the fact I had cheap digital ones that had never gone wrong. I leave this stuff out like decoration. Tools are another that get my autism going, big old fucking planes and chisels.

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The craftsmanship is all part of the fun.

Yeah, that's part of the fun of making ammo too. I enjoy loading the mag with the rounds I know are all seated to within .001" of eachother, have little if any runout, have powder charges exactly the same, have necks trimmed perfectly square and to an identical lenght as the next and that are thoroughly tested and documented. Honestly it's nice just holding them in your hand with how smooth they are and the sort of dull sheen that tumbled cases get.

I size down 200gr Hornady 338 FMJ's in two stages. 338 to 334, then 334 to 330. Use a lot of lube.

>Use a lot of lube

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:^)

Nah but seriously when sizing down FMJ's, and especially going 0.004" at a time it needs it. Nothing like sizing down cast bullets.

Hey, I'm loading some .303 brit with 180gr cast boolits that are powder coated. I'm looking for a load using H414 or IMR 4064. My manual says 42 gr H414 starting for 180 gr jacketed bullets but seems like too much velocity at 2000 fps.
Would appreciate some advice

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Try it and when the resuslts suck reduce the Charge.
Coated bullets usually fall somewhere inbetween lead and jacketed loads

Yeah don't think you can fix it. I might try casting them into buckshot for shotguns. Then you've got a nice plastic sleeve and still fun.

at that point why not cast?

Reloading is just so comfy. Someone explain crimping 223/556, as if you were explaining it to a woman please. I just received a crimp die.

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>lmao at this poor nigger who thinks his boxed shit holds a fucking candle to precision stuff I crank out of my Co-Ax with forster BR dies.

Point and laugh everyone.

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I'm just getting started reloading, for a 19" barreled 1895 in 30-40.

First: Does anyone have a lead on .312 ~200 gr Spitzer bullets? I can only find Gucci stuff for >$1 each.

2nd: Should I go for the faster powder with such a (relatively) short barrel? It's 9" shorter than stock.

My first batch ever. Pls no bully..
I do have a couple of questions though.. 1. I didnt open up the mouths of my cases (lack of knowledge) and when I sat the bullets, it shaved some from the sides. Would this fuck up the accuracy a lot?
2. How important is it to trim cases? I was told not so important with revolvers but what about with autoloaders? I want to load some .45 ACP in the future.
3. Why do cast and fmj bullets require different loads of powder even if they are the same bullet weight?

I really appriciate the spoon feeding in advance. This is all extreamely new to me. I started my second batch of 150 rounds and its already moving along much, much smoother.

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I have been considering picking up a Dillon 550. Is it worth it or is there a better option?

Can I use my 38 special brass for 357 magnum energy loads like 600 ftlbs muzzle energy, or should I find some 357 brass for these loads?

Wow I didn't know gays were so into guns, that speaks well of them. I guess you're in the 10% that isn't.

What work bench is that?

I would be careful, unless your gun can handle +p+ loads and you don't mind risking your fingers, I would get some .357 brass.

1. It might affect accuracy at distances beyond 5 yards or so, shoot it and report back.
2. Trimming cases is important for rimless cases, your .357 revolver has a rimmed case so it's not as important. The main reason you want to trim revolver brass is so that they are uniform for when you apply a crimp, although if you are not crimping, this has little bearing on you. You absolutely need to trim your .45 ACP brass, as well as any rifle brass. Really any non-rimmed or semi-rimmed cartridge needs to be carefully trimmed.
3. Cast bullets require a lesser powder load than FMJ bullets because you can't push them too fast or else the lead can begin shearing apart in the barrel. The jacket on a FMJ round will hold the bullet together at higher velocities, so you can use more powder.

You can use sulfur to separate it out.

Not recommended and it's a lot of work, effort, and potentially nasty fumes

It's not really necessary for most rifles, especially those that feed from a box magazine. Try it if you want but you probably won't see any real improvement.

Thanks for all three answers! They were a huge help and I will report back!

Necked cases need to be measured and trimmed every once in a while. Straight wall cases won't need to be trimmed most likely but it doesn't hurt to check them with a caliper. Most revolver rounds are going to use a straight wall cases.

>Bullets keep coming out with wrinkles
>People say mold or lead are too cold
>blast the lead and mold with fire
>bullets come out with wrinkles anyway.
>People say it may be that I'm pouring too slowly
>Pour faster, to the point that it flies off the sides
>Still get wrinkles

Man, this is bullshit.

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Use a $10 hotplate to preheat the mold. Failing that dip a corner of the mold in the melt to heat it up quickly.

If using a bottom pour pot, place the spout directly against the hole in the sprue plate and pour that way. That will allow even a cooler mold to throw a well filled out bullet.

3. Cast boolits are significantly softer. Require less pressure to force them into the rifling. That leads to a different pressure curve between jacketed and cast lead.

What type of crimp die? Lee FCD?

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I've done about 750 45acp, 1500 .223, and 1000 each of .357 and .38 special with one. With lube, it really doesn't take that much effort. I like it because I can sit back and watch TV while using it instead of having to be at my bench.

I just dip my mold in the melt for 30 seconds or so before casting.

Kek.

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Because I replicate the original load at close to 2000fps.

I've tried dipping the mold into the lead. I ended up with a mess stuck to the bottom of the mold.

Generally people crimp so that their cartridges don't come apart during the loading process. Some autoloaders are very violent when they load rounds. I crimp for my ar15 but I don't bother doing it for my Garand. Some people never crimp at all and they are fine. I would just google it and see if the general consensus for your firearm is to crimp or not. Oddly enough, the only round I ever had fall apart during clambering was a 223 round in a bolt action. The bullet got pushed into the case. I almost pulled the trigger too, but something in the back of my head said not to because it felt a bit weird when it chambered. My buddy had loaded the rounds himself and he didn't get the neck tension correct. Thank God I didn't pull that trigger, that could have been really bad. I don't shoot his handloads anymore.

Wrinkles = too cold/flowing lead too slow
Frosty/Lead flashings in air holes = too hot
A common problem is the mold is heated but the sprue plate is still cold and sucks heat out of the lead as it flows in and touches it.
Try heating your mold upside down, focusing on heating the sprue plate. Cast till the get frosty, then CAREFULLY lightly tap the bottom of your closed mold on a damp sponge after dumping your boolits

Did you clean your mold very, very well with a good solvent?
Also, if you are getting "gunk", you need to flux your melt before dipping your mold in

What's the cheapest I could mexican load Privi M855 with 62gr TSX?

You should crimp match loads with a light to medium crimp, I've had a 75gr Hornady .223 bullet setback and now crimp any without a cannalure.

Small setups welcome.

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Turn up the heat until you are casting frosted bullets. Then dial back.

man talk about your "no excuses" setup pic.

how long was the mold in the lead?
If it's cold metal, lead usually sticks to it. It's also a good idea to clean the mold well first, and smoke it up with some candles.

there really is no excuse for not reloading.

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how about pics of your casting setup?

>Casting setup

It's literally just a propane burner, an iron pan, a ladle and my backyard floor.

I should mention, out of frustration I cranked the heat up to the point that the lead was turning gold, then blue/purple. That's still not enough?

not if you're using a cold/dirty mold. Then temp of your pot is irrelevant.

oh my! thats exotic

get a pot witha thermostat and melt the shit. fish out the zinc

>Someone explain crimping 223/556, as if you were explaining it to a woman please.
ya know how some dudes are pushing rope and gotta hold their dick in hand to guide it in, a crimp keeps your dick straight and not smushed

>mexican load
?? por que ??

I have heard of Mexican Match, but never Mexican Loading. I think he means reloading without the proper equipment?

Mexican Match - back in the day, a lot of shooting matches, particularly at Camp Perry, would only let you use surplus ammo in the surplus rifle event. They did not allow match ammo. Some guys would take the ammo apart, put all the powder in one pile, and then divide it up equally amongst the cartridges. The surplus cartridges often had a powder charge that would range a few tenths of a grain from each other because it was war time production.

For example: pull 100 bullets, and then weigh the powder. You get 4780 grains. Divide that up and then reload each cartridge with exactly 47.8 grains. Now your ammo is consistent, where before, the rounds would vary from 47.5 to 47.9 grains. You now have some Mexican Match ammo

Some people will also replace the surplus bullet with a Sierra MatchKing bullet. That's what I have heard when making "Mexican Match".

You're retarded right?

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I'm glad I have a TV in front of my press....

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Nice. Are those ballistic tips or some kind of API?

Just paint it and mount it to the deck

ZMax, it's like Amax but with a Z... And like 20% cheaper...

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I currently reload .223, 308, 8mm mauser, and 7.7 jap.
Im seriously considering getting into 300 black out for quiet fun but i dread the idea of another caliber id have to invest in. Currently, i shoot around 10-13 calibers

How do you guys clean your brass? I dry tumble in walnut shells. Are you supposed to deprime and resize before or after cleaning?

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Wet tumble with SS pins. If you use walnut, make sure you dump them into a towel and get the dust off and deprime after tumbling to make sure your flash holes are clear.

you fucking what? you realize every fucking person who shoots precision shoots reloads? Every load is talored to the gun. Match grade ammo isnt always the best for a gun you fucking sperg

This is why people say we are the easiest board to troll

lower the temp. Zinc melts at about 100 degrees higher than lead does

this

Deprime -> wet tumble -> resize -> dry tumble with polish. Absolutely perfect brass, spotless pockets. Last step optional for the less autistic, first 3 are not.

This shit is too much fun

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I'm thinking about getting a martini henry. Anybody reload .577/450?

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What's the point of staking primers?

so they don't fall out and jam a rifle cuz muh milspec

I just picked up a lee pro 4-20. Would it be a mistake to try to melt the lead out of the contaminated ingots with it?

Is it actually fun, or is it the lead poisoning?

Did you clean the shipping lube out of the mold? If there is oil in the cavities they will never quit wrinkling.

Do you have any idea what you can do with .357 magnum if you reload?

I did. I actually saw a video the day before it arrived stating they should be washed and put in the oven a few times to set the screws, or something to that effect.

It also gets washed after every use. Hot water, soap and a good, long wipe-down with a clean rag.

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That gun is so unbelievably cool.

Finally did my first tray of .45. Hoping to hit the range on Monday and not blow myself up.

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Anyone have a source on cannon powder?
Looking for some superslow

lower the temp then flux the shit out of it with sulfur

have high ventilation because shits dangerous

armslist.com/posts/8282892/aiken-south-carolina-reloading-for-sale-trade--press-scales-powder--thrower--2-hand-primers-308-45-dies

Is this a good deal for a starter set? What else would I need?

Don't get starter sets, research the process until you understand it basically, then make a list of what you think you would need; after that research what the best make and model of those tools are and buy them. You'll end up wanting to replace all of a starter kit unless you don't really care about having the best or being able to make ammo of the highest quality.

BUT, all that stuff happens to be at least good. You could buy it and add other bits that you need.

Are they still making the Z-max? I thought they were discontinued when the Walking Dead became shifty.