I really want to build an M16a1 clone...

Protip: You can find original furniture on eBay and Gunbroker for less than you might think.

What in the fuck is that retarded BUIS setup

Post the build.
Hurry before /arg/ tripfags find you

On the 5.56?
I was switching between the 2 platforms trying out an optic.
Which was an eBay chinkshit that sucks ass. It actually would do well for a $40 range bullshit toy, but in actual stress it shattered glass.

here it is

>Lower -- $190 brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/lower-receivers/ar-15-m16-a1-lower-receiver-prod107496.aspx?psize=48

>Upper -- $160.72 tntesales.com/604-a1-slab-side-upper-receiver-stripped/

>barrel -- $279.73 tntesales.com/m16a1-5-56-barrel-assembly-1-9-lite-qpq-a1-a2-fsb/

>bolt -- $79.95 joeboboutfitters.com/Toolcraft-Black-Nitrite-Bolt-Carrier-Group-AR15-M-p/tool-tooauto-011bn.htm

>trigger/parts -- $55.02 surplusammo.com/products/dpms-ar-15-complete-lower-receiver-parts-kit.html

>furniture set -- $137.26 uscollectorsordnance.com/online-store/M16-Original-Type-D-Fair-condition-furniture-set-p95088405

>various parts -- $78.28 uscollectorsordnance.com/online-store/Accessories-Other-c23332009


>TOTAL -- $980,96

prices include shipping and FFL

thank you guys for the tips, for my 21st Im debating between a new ar or a nice handgun that will actually be under my name

>1-9 A1
Eww.
>But muh ammo versatility

All depends on what you plan on running through it.

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For the record, I run a 1:7
So I'm not talking shit, just saying run what your build is.

No, I understand. But an A1 clone with anything but a 1:12 20" pencil barrel seems wrong.
I'll use other ARs for other heavier grain ammo.
That's just my opinion. I like to get as close to authenticity in a clone.

Am I good to go in terms of having the parts to have a functional rifle? TNTESales has a 1:12 barrel at exactly the same price, so it's just preference for me.

this shit jpg is still getting passed around?

It will work fine within 300 yards without a noticable difference with any twist rate.
Post proofs that its wrong.
I'll wait.

considering that the original rifle was designed with a 1:12 twist with a 55 grain round in mind, I'd say go for authenticity.

I guess I'll have to do some more research on 5.56 prices, am pretty new to the AR scene. I am mostly a Kalashnikov fag desu. Depending on what grain is cheapest/most plentiful, then I'll go from there.

But besides from that, am I missing anything from that list that would prevent me from fully completing the rifle?

Don't be a scrub, get the 1:12.

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.55gr is always the cheapest. 62gr is right behind it.
Everything else is 2x (or more) the price
55gr .223 from walmart is $4.78 for a 20 round box.
62gr 5.56 Aguila online is $16 for a 50 round box.

M193 is the cheapest 5.56 you're going to find anyway.

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>prevent me from completing
Its fucking Lego's dude.
111+/- parts
Put them in the right place, Bamm! A rifle is born.

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I have a fantasy of charging at a robber with an m16a1 bayonet

If you think it would be cool, do it, have as many AR15s as you want to have.

If you already have an A4 clone, then an A1 clone will actually feel pretty different to you, pencil barrel and no quad-rail really makes for a remarkably less heavy rifle in comparison.
Also the fixed A1 carry handle and its sight is just ace, 10/10 aesthetic with a good and basic aperture.

Retro rifles website also sells completed a1 upper with barrels. Remember to get a 1:7 or at least 1:9 twist barrel for ammo versatility if you plan on it being a shooter. The originals were 1:12 which aren't good for anything outside 55 grain in respect for accuracy

Only if you don't have stuff like a punch set and non-marring hammer and a vice grip, but if you don't already have those things what the fuck is wrong with you dude?

furniture does not have a huge effect on the guns performance but it does have a huge effect on feel. considering you want a clone furniture is important. not all furniture is equal they may look the same but some just have shittier quality plastic or a very loose fit and make the gun feel like garbage.

You better buy an armorer's wrench or else you won't have any fingers or finish on your rifle by the time your build is complete

double up on this. I like the aesthetics of the oldschool AR, but make no mistake, it is inferior to a modern gun.

>it is inferior to a modern gun.
you don't have much going for you.

inspiration for op.

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you can do this on a modern rifle

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what? pile on crap?

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Good enough for Crane...

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protip: red loctite the buffer tube and grease or put anti sieze on the barrel nut

my room is a fucking lake now

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so if someone else cuts off his dick...

>this shit jpg is still getting passed around?

Its a little basic having just three colors instead of gradients or charts, and not counting barrel length into things, but this is an infographic what do you expect.

Aggressive twist rates like 1:7 are better at stabilizing heavier projectiles, and can have some deleterious ballistic effects on lighter rounds.

>Crane builds bad rifles

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thank you

so we just call you dickless then

Got an xm16e1 retro build, but have been considering a mojave build for some time as well

Call me whatever you want, I'm the one with the build that'll take me out to 600m and then stab a nigga

this retarded

Triangular handguards make me diamonds

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>and can have some deleterious ballistic effects on lighter rounds.
Nope. It's not a problem until projectiles are spinning so fast they're ripped apart.

Who gives a fuck about the twist rate? Look at that disgusting finish.

this jelly

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Build a 604 instead, its the AF version that kept true to stoners design. Its basically an m16a1 minus the forward assist, minus the brass deflector, and with the better flash hider. This way you get your vietnam hard on, while having something totally different from your A4

>goes out of his way to get retro receivers, can't be fucked to get a pencil-profile barrel or a $350 Colt scope
How do you even fuck up this badly?
>minus the brass deflector
The thing the A1 doesn't have?
> and with the better flash hider.
You're high if you think the three-prong is a better FH.

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The rifle you posted here has no bayonet lug.

where do yall find the 20rnd mags? Ive only seen 30 and 10/5

>where do yall find the 20rnd mags? Ive only seen 30 and 10/5
The internet.

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>I'd rather have an A4 clone rather than an A1 clone

OP is clear example of why abortion is necessary

Dumb goatposter

Is that a Barska scope? How do you like it?

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No u
Can you fucking not?

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His helpfulness: nonexistent. What fucking scope is it?

Barska from Walmert

bump

So brownells retro stocks are bad??
I actually purchased a set when they was on sale a few months ago for a retro build in the near future.

Are they so bad that I should return them and find old surplus? Have people experienced any problems with the brownells stocks? Or they just cheap in comparison to usgi?

they're literally made of plastic, the shitty kind you'd find on toys
do with that what you will

I just didn't care for the fact that they weren't constructed in any way like the original furniture. Since you already have a set get it on a rifle and give us a first-hand account.

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Yeah it's a barska, it's not bad especially for the price. Got it on eBay for I think $45. Mainly got it for the looks

Meh I had an extra barrel from my other AR which I switched to a 16 inch. I'll probably get a pencil profile eventually when I get another lower to use the government profile barrel on

I’ve installed them on my 20” colt and it seemed cheap in comparison to factory a4 guards, they do have heat shields in them. And if I remember they don’t fill the triangle at the top completely. I got the whole set for $55 bucks delivered. Guess I’ll run with them, it’s not like I’m going to be using the gun in a actual war anyway.

alpha as fuck but normies wont get it. they think success comes from others.

Poor thing

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Same as fuck

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I have a 20" 1:12 Green Mountain barrel. Within 300 yards bullet weight really has no affect at all. Which is good because thats what your sights are set for. Plus the overgrown german shepards that are North American whitetail can be readily dropped with 55 gr. so there's really no con to the 1:12 in this day and age.

Can I get a lead on an A1 reproduction barrel? I'm looking at the Green Mountain one right now but my autism is itching at the button rifling. Not that I prefer CHF over button, but I'm pretty sure Colt was using CHF barrels in the 60s/70s.

There's also the TNTE one mentioned at the top of the thread but I have a complete A1 kit minus the stripper lower and barrel, so I don't want to waste money on the barrel nut and FSB. It's also $100 more for $30 worth of parts (muh labor installing parts I don't want in the first place, they also sell other similar barrel assemblies in the $150-$200 range anyway)