REEEEEEloading & Jow ForumsondimentsGeneral

The dry sheet will act like Velcro and grab up all of the tiny dirt and other particles.
The NuFinish is very mildly abrasive that will shine up the cases like crazy, and it has a Polymer wax substitute that will fend off tarnishing.
Just a little dime sized dollop (or even less) per batch is all you need.

And you can put the polish in any way you want. After adding the brass and clean dryer sheets, I just put it right on the media just before I put the lid on.

thanks. i guess i fucked up by removing the primers, im reading online now that the walnut media will plug the flash holes

It’s fine, just double check you can see daylight through the flash hole

alright off to start my tumbler for the first time, wish me luck guys. anything else i should know last minute? is this shit going to send a cloud of dust everywhere? should i do it outside

Yes, it's because the BP residue is tougher.

Also, if you intend to reload BP brass then you need to wash it with soap and water ASAP. Smokeless powder produces only tiny amounts of fouling so it's no problem. BP produces a lot of fouling, and it contains sulfur. That reacts with moisture in the air and makes sulfuric acid which will fuck your brass. What I do is keep a big jug full of hot soapy water near me at the range. As I fire I drop the empties in there.

....hit post too soon.

Anyway, you must use water because only water will dissolve the sulfur. Normal gun cleaning solvents for nitro aka smokeless won't touch it.

Nah m8.
It’s not rocket surgery
It’ll be fine

well its running and this shit is fucking loud. i live in an apartment and not sure how long i can get away with this the downstairs neighbors are probably going to WTF if i do this at night for sure. dammit is there any way to become a self made ammo factory without privacy???

It shouldn't be very loud. Loud enough to annoy you? Maybe. Loud enough to bother the neighbors? No way. A few thoughts:
-do you have the cover on the tumbler?
-is it "full" of media? If it's under-filled it will make more noise.
-don't add too much brass relative to how much media you have
-don't put the tumbler on top of a hollow cabinet that might resonate.

go stainless steel pins with a wet tumbler and never look back.

Don't you need a seriously industrial sort of tumbler to handle that much weight? Are you using a drum type?

Drum tumblers are required because it's a wet tumble (you add water), vibatory tumblers aren't watertight.

The Harbor Freight one works just fine.

thanks i just added a bunch more media and it definitely quieted down, i think its a bit quieter now the brass isnt hitting each other as much

This. Flawless primer pockets feel so good.

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see for a comprehensive list of modern reloading manuals. as for worthiness, IDK as I haven't read any of them personally. reviews i have read on a lot of them range from "every reloaders bench should have to a copy" to "older editions had more data".

This is leading me to believe that it may be advantageous to hold on to some older copies of manuals.

have you read any of those on your list? I'm considering some P.O. Ackley books, and the corbin swaging books.

damn that looks clean as fuck. specs on your setup? keep in mind im a total noob and just started cleaning cases today with a new dry tumbler

what are some good methods of drying brass? getting that frankford brass dryer seems like a costy purchase and costly to run.

It's Frankford Arsenal's wet tumbler. I started on a dry one, I still use it for powder coating or to get an autistic level polish.
Tbh I've only ran a few wet cycles so far and just have rolled them in a big towel then spread them out.

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>Frankford Arsenal's wet tumbler
is it this one?
amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Separator-Polishing-Reloading/dp/B00HTN4R6O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa/147-7202508-1754807?ie=UTF8&qid=1539388226&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=frankford arsenal wet tumbler&psc=1

Yeah. You may be able to find a used one cheaper on castboolets bst or arf's bst if money is tight, but I haven't seen them pop up much.

>, vibatory tumblers aren't watertight.
The industrial ones are. That's why I asked.
Vibratory is much more efficient than drum.

I don't think they could handle the weight of stainless media, but this does work with ceramic wet media: buy either of the Dillon vibratories. The bowl is held to the base with 6 bolts and special washhers. Remove the bolts one at a time, smear RTV silicone on both sides of the washer. Re-install the bolt. Repeat until you've done all the bolts. Now it's water-tight. I've used these for about 12 years to tumble parts in my business. Much faster than a drum, and a fraction of the price of an industrial tumbler rated for wet media.

Thanks. I was hoping for some expertise with those factory load manuals. I have flipped through several of them from the big names (RCBS, Lee, Hornady, etc.) and they seem like pretty much the same thing, just with a slightly different visual layout. I was wondering if anyone could suggest which are the best.

>>have you hread any of those on your list
I own all of them except for Ackley, and I have been referencing them for years. I have read others too but didn't mention them since I didn't find them useful enough to warrant a mention.

>I was wondering if anyone could suggest which are the best.
doubtful that there is one. the ones with the names of bullet or powder manufacturor's name on them will obviously be biased towards their own products.

Hawk and Woodleigh are specialist manuals you probably dont need.

As you said, a lot of the same informationin some of the books you saw.
The common basic bitch reloading manuals most recommended are probably Hornady(2016, makes ammo components), Lee(2016, makes reloading equipment only), Lyman(2016, makes reloading + other equipment, no ammo components), Nosler(2016?, makes custom cartridges, ammo components), and Sierra(2003?, makes ammo components). I would expect them to be very similar.

Noticed a lot of those are published in 2016. this has me curious to know if new manuals are otw.

>Noticed a lot of those are published in 2016. this has me curious to know if new manuals are otw.

I can't help but wonder if it's a lot like cookbooks. The newer editions tend to drop "old fashioned" recipes and add whatever new and trendy ones are out there.

So I'm guessing the more recent manuals are going to have things like the WSSMs, .458 socom, .50 beowulf, .25-45 sharps, 6.5 creedmore, and other current cartridges while some of the old-school ones from before WW2 are disppearing. You won't find much 5.7 velo-dog data in current books, I don't think.

>I can't help but wonder if it's a lot like cookbooks.
yea i think you're on the right track. only real complaints i see of any reloading manual is that they took out info. maybe obscure rounds with less than 10k caliber owners in the wild isn't worthwhile to spend money printing, since they're essentially already dead.

>I own all of them except for Ackley, and I have been referencing them for years. I have read others too but didn't mention them since I didn't find them useful enough to warrant a mention.
good to know, thanks.

BTW, Ackley is good too, I just have been borrowing a buddy's copies from time to time. I haven't gotten around to snagging my own.

DON'T BOTHER WITH BOOKS EVERYTHING IS ONLINE.
You most likely wont find your combination of bullet and powder in books.
hodgdonreloading.com/

I use an ammo can with a fan, takes a few hours but it doesn't slow me down.

I shake my wet brass in a used towel to get rid of most of the moisture, then toss them in a vibratory tumbler with some walnut media for a half hour. The walnut media will absorb the remaining water, and give nice polish.

I like the berger and hornady book. If im using sierras i use that site though.

Asked in QTDDTOT but didnt get a response. Can you run really light bullet/loads in .308 cartridge or do the ballistics go to shit outside of a small window of variables? Whats the lightest round you can realistically use ? I was thinking if getting a 243, but if I can run a 308 really soft I might consider it because its more common

>brownells gets a shipment of Reloader 17 in stock
>finally, needed some for 30-06
>out of stock
wow

i ran 110 grain nosler ballistic tip and 110 grain sierra soft points in my .308 tikka t3 lite with good results. didn't shoot it past 100 yards though

That is the manliest collection of whey protein powders I've ever seen.

Anyone have something to share about reloading 11mm Werndl or know where to get dies for it?

anyone ever shot a deer with a berry's plated bullet? i'm wondering if it will deform and expand like a pure soft lead or go straight through like a fmj

check swaging dies. corbin, bullet swaging supply, rce.

>DON'T BOTHER WITH BOOKS EVERYTHING IS ONLINE.
It's not, actually. That's why I want books.

There's an odd "hole" in online content. You get a lot of the old stuff that is long out of copyright (i.e. Project Gutenberg). And you get a lot of the modern stuff--i.e. whatever has been hot and popular since the late 1990's. But between that there's an awful lot of missing information, and books fill that gap. Not to mention they require a LOT less effort to search, and there's a lot less BS to filter out.

Honestly, Hatcher's Notebook alone answers 75%% of the questions I see people ask here in the reloading threads. You'd be a fool not to read it if you are a handloader.

What's up with primer availability? I haven't seen any s&b large rifle in a while... I may just switch to cci the next time someone runs free hazmat...

this.
also not everyone has a pc at their reloading station.
also not everyone likes reading off a screen.
also your internet connect may be down next time you need to reload
also its not cost effective to print books worth of data, when real published and polished copies exist.

in short, f off with your dont bother with books bs, and your stuck shift key bs.

roll them in a towel in and up and down motion like your polishing your balls. when towel is damp put in another and repeat. Then spread em out and let them air dry overnight.

my mom makes me reload in my dads shop with no airconditioning or wifi it fucking sucks

>also its not cost effective to print books worth of data, when real published and polished copies exist.
>Printing things
>Paying homage to the ink jew.
Never again.
fedex print centers are just fine for the 2x a year i need to print something.

tell your mom shes a bitch. if your dad says anything tell him hes a cuck.

>durr books are dumb old technology
is just as dumb as
>I don't need no new-fangled internets

they both provide lots of useful information. There have been lots of firearms-related information that I've sought for years with no luck online, then I finally got around to reading gun books that people have been recommending and the info was right there all along.

question: why do I see a 2.750 col for a 165sst and 2.800 for a 168hpbt but the 165 bullet is actually longer than the 168 bullet which means that you seat the longer 165 deeper than the shorter than the 168? something with the ogive? Doesn't that give the 165 more pressure even with same charge? y?

And why do I keep needing a crimp if no setback and many many do not run crimp? and why do I get so many directly conflicting answers? Some say crimp is bad for accuracy while others say it is good? Why is this still all up for debate?

the OAL differences are caused by different seating depths.

>crimps
depends entirely on your application. Crimps may be needed when the ammo will be roughly handled (i.e. military), or if recoil causes the bullets to jump crimp in a revolver, or if recoil in a magazine pushes bullets farther back into the case. Other applications that don't involve hard recoil or rough handling don't require a crimp.

>>Crimps and accuracy
There's no hard-and-fast rule here. Some guns like crimps, some don't. Depends entirely on your gun and load.

Probably different ogives. Book OAL is just a guideline; seat to your gun's chamber or magazine length.
There should be enough neck tension to hold the projectile without crimping. I don't crimp for my 223AR, and just lightly factory crimp for my 308AR... Seat a dummy and see how many whacks with a kinetic hammer it takes to dislodge.

Bought 2 cans of imr-4831 and 1 of Hercules 2400 for 5$ each today

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some of those look old as fuck. i have read old powders become unstable and unsafe.

Those do look old, but assuming they were stored properly should be safe.

It's the ones that are in cardboard containers that are old enough to be unstable.

M-must be nice to be allowed to buy and store as much powder as you want (5kg purchase yearly and 3kg storage here)

[cries in european]

Heh, UK bro here and we have a 15kg storage limit :)

I check powder for signs of deterioration and the container for damage Before using if it doesn't feel right I just give it to my wife as fertilizer.

Yeah but our powder is like pound for pound the same cost as platinum coated diamonds that whatever cunt celebrity is most popular right now has rubbed on her tits.

If anyone can actually afford 15kg of poweder they probably drive Rollos and shit. Not to mention the powder you want is never in stock.

Whine some more.

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What the fuck. That cost like $30 here.

If you think that’s impressive you should see me press on the bench

If all else fails, you can send some brass to Lee and they will make you a die set. It’s not as expensive as you might think.

Is that pesos or something? Holy jebus...

aw man my mom wont let me reload at all because she says ill blow up the house

Old powder is fine.
The lab lads at Alliant still do annual burn tests of a small sample of some of the first batches of Hurcules powder and it’s literally fine.
Also,
The collection grows....
But How do we get Freddy to put Jalapeño fry sauce into packets, tho?

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$619.99? this cant be real. then again, someone needs to pay for those fake politically correct police investigations carried out by overpaid illegal immigrant diversity hires

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>t. retail associate playing with price gun

Gotsa loicense fa that purrveshun, ya cunt?

If it makes any difference it was a decimal point slip.

Isn't alliant imported? That still pretty expensive though. I could understand like $45 instead of $30 to move around a super scary explosive powder for guns.

Some of their stuff is made in Sweden

I was gonna guess Singapore dollars, but I doubt they'd allow anyone to have powder.

was it was supposed to be $6,119.00?

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Found some CH4D dies for $330
Would it be less expensive than that?

Damn bro that sucks. These are my empties from since June alone.

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is britain really like that? why do the people allow this to happen?

>REEEEEEloading
i can get behind this

Got my tumbler and a food dehydrator. Just need a press and case trimmer. Any recommendations?

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Depends on what kind of reloading you do. World's finest trimmer for mass quantities, Wilson for precision stuff. Hornady is pretty decent for a cheaper option, but keep in mind only Hornady shell holders work with it.

yes.
the the same reason why people allow idiotic laws in any other country: stupidity and ignorance.

Yes. If you go out of you way to break the law and your're fucking retarded, you will be caught. Me and my IR dazzler on the other hand...

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does barrel length matter on shotguns? the dude at the gun store said shotguns use fast burning gunpowder similar to pistols and it all burns up within the first 20 inches of barrel and that longer shotgun barrels are just made to be front heavier so they swing smoother when ur aiming at flying birds and stuff

I want to be able to make a thousand rounds with out taking 2 days to complete the process

It burns within the first 4 or so inches.
Longer barrel does give higher velocities but the main reason is it's much easier to point shoot.
Super long barrels (6' and up) are also mostly silent and used in urban bird control.

stand them upright on a paper towel on a cookie sheet and put them in a oven with a circulating fan at 200 degrees. 30 minutes and they are crispy dry.

Any cheap food dehydrator works thats generally what the brass dryer is. You can get them for less than 20$ at a good will if you keep your eye out

Dillon xl650 with case feeder.
I was so indecisive about the lnl and the 650 that i decided to conduct an experiment with some of my deployment money.
I bought both in 9mm with a 223 conversion.
After running both for about 5k rounds, I’ve found that the hornady is more finisky overall. I have to watch the hornady much more just to make sure things line up correctly before each pull.
Like a shell being fully seated in the shell plate, or indexing exactly into position.
The dillon just locks into position and i find I can just fire and forget. Once I have stuff set for my specific load, I just start cranking and feeding.

I do like the topend Die setupon the hornady, as its got less toleranced wiggle room. Thats really about it.

Hello Jow Forums, I'm looking to invest in some reloading equipment when xmas comes around. I have been doing as much research as I can and I think I have all the easy brands done already. I made a special email address and emailed every manufacturor requesting a product catalog and being put on their email lists. I also did bookmark their websites and DL digital catalogs where I could, but I really prefer reading a book.

Brand's I've already been researching:

Alliant Powders
Bullet Swaging Company
Berger Bullets
Barnes Bullets
Corbin
CH4D
Dillon Precision
EGW
Forster
Frankford Arsenal
Hornady
Hodgdon(IMR, Winchester, ???)
KM Precision
Lyman
Lee Precision
Loadbooks USA
Lapua
LE Wilson
Mighty Armory
Meister Bullets
MEC Shooting Sports
Nosler
PO Ackley/Hawk
RCBS
RCE
Redding
Shooters World Powders
Swift Bullet
Sharpshooter 22 Long Rifle Reloader
Sierra Bullets
Vihtavuori
Vectan
Woodleigh Bullets
Western Powders
Whidden Gunworks

Any brands I should check into adding to my reloading bench?

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Wtf is a crisp pack?

Lee custom neck sizing die is $70, full length is around $200. You have to send in 2 fired pieces of brass and the bullet you want to load.
Try calling and talking to them. I have several times in the past, and they are actually very nice people to talk to. You’re probably not the first person that has wanted that die made by them.
leeprecision.com/custom-services/custom-rifle-and-handgun-reloading-die-sets/