Anybody else boil their guns to clean them?

I boiled some gun 70 year old gun parts last month without oiling them after and they were fine. I just made sure to dry them thoroughly within a minute or two of taking them out.

depends on the humidity

Hence why bakes them afterwards.

What about blackpowder makes you need water? I’ve never used water on a smokeless rifle.

Hot water and Dawn dish soap in a utility sink is the red pilled way to clean gats.

It leaves a lot more material after firing and because that material basically causes rust, it's more important to get rid of it quick.

the rust usually forms after they dry

Just buy an ultrasonic cleaner you lazy fuck

>yes goy

How? Did I just get lucky with the humidity or did I just dry the parts the right way somehow? I want to try this again in the future but don't want to risk rusting.

Not if you dry it properly.

>totally unnecessary for black powder cleaining
Soap and warm water works wonders for black powder fouling, actually.

You'd better use distilled water unless you want hard water deposits all over your gun.

i dont know i think it might be the type of steel in the italian replicas. maybe steel from that other anons vintage gun is more corrosion resistant and higher quality if its american

thats what i do now. no need to boil, warm water and soap is fine enough. boiling gave me flash rusting, while it was still in the boiling water.

and its just so labor intensive to get all the water out of every crack after you boil the gun. i just use warm water and soap on a patch for the bore followed by dry patch and ballistol, and give everything else a wipe down with ballistol on a rag and i havent had any problems. i have a beater bp revolver that i have left uncleaned to test the corrosion properties of black powder, people act like its fucking acid but its really not that bad. ive left it uncleaned for months after a nice shooting session to see what would happen, guess what it didnt rust. i dont live in a jungle though, so if you came into contact with moisture maybe you need to be careful. i was just testing for science. even the white residue around the nipples wiped right off. i think the caps are more corrsosive to metal than actual BP residue.

ive tried even dry wiping after shooting and seen no problems with rust. now i just wipe everything down with a lightly oiled ballistol rag making sure to leave a coating of oil on metal parts. i only tear down the revolver completely for detail cleaning after multiple range sessions

Yes. Gun broth is delicious.

>i dont live in a jungle though
That's the thing, if you live in like, Florida or Louisiana, you can see guns develop surface rust overnight, even when clean and oiled.

that must be a nightmare to deal wtih for people with substantial collections

Bro...

Simple green + 10 min soak + shower rinse

>Get on my level

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I’ve boiled a many guns back in my day. At the end of the night we’d gather all of our pistol and boil them in a large communal cauldron known as “The watering hole”. Laterr the water would be saved as broth/stock for various dishes, as black powder is non-toxic and adds just the right amount of flavor to a dish.

I think Africans used blackpowder as a libido booster.

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Here it is 3 hours after drying and there is no flash rust. I put a little ballistol in the water to help prevent the rust.

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I only do this to soften cosmoline on my milsurp, then scrub it down with mineral oil and a toothbrush.

As long as there's no trapped water, the water will evaporate off in a matter of seconds, becaause the metal is so hot.

I boil my denim too

wrong

makes sense

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Yeah, a pile of desiccant bags are an absolute must for your gunsafe in a place like that (and actually, don't make your safe airtight).
Stainless finishes and other things like that are often appreciated, too.

Have a friend who's ex-Army. 5'6" spry as fuck, got stuck lugging a SAW M240 around for a few years, used to just shower with the fucking thing and towel dry it before himself. Never failed an inspection. Do your thing, but do it right.

I spray my guns full of WD40 and stick them in a Pelican case with a mini desciccant device. Would this prevent rust?

I also recharge the device every few days.

Yeah I have to boil some parts of my Marlin 75c because it gunks up so badly

them fancy cleaners work well

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WD40 kind of helps against moisture.
It is NOT a lubricant, NOT a cleaner, and will NOT offer significant protection against moisture over more specialized products.
Mind also that it can ruin wood furniture.

buy WD40 specialist, it's main purpose is rust/corrosion protection vs the regular wd40.

As said, it makes for lots of carbon residue.
Throughout history, this lead to problems, such as bores fouling to the point that you could not load projectiles of standard caliber, leading to the practice of actually carrying some smaller caliber bullets to let you shoot more as your musket got dirty.
It's also why it was so important to have a cleaning rod on your gun, because besides being useful for loading your bullet, any higher volume of shooting would require you to clean the bore, this still applied on the battlefield, because you needed to keep shooting.

This lead to the idea of cutting striations in the bore of muskets, the idea being that fouling would gather in there, and make room for you loading and firing your bullets. Someone got the idea that if you cut these in a spiral pattern, you would get more surface area for gathering fouling, then leading to the discovery that if you used a bullet which fit the bore perfectly (usually loaded with the help of some grease and effort), the musket would shoot MUCH straighter and farther; the rifled bore, imparting gyroscopic spin to lead projectiles.
For a long time, this was a feature only seen on special guns, but with better manufacturing methods, and the invention of the Minié Ball (allowing easy loading without any need for extra grease, but having a hollow base which would expand and engage the lands and grooves of the rifling), rifled bores would start becoming a common feature in the 1800's.

Another thing with blackpowder fouling was that this would pretty much kill any prospects of self-loading guns, and machineguns, because they would get dirty so fast, you would just get malfunctions, it was the invention of smokeless powder (which made far less smoke, thus the name, but also left barely any residue at all, burning very cleanly), which made automatics and machineguns a reality.

>got stuck lugging an M240 SAW

No, he didn't.

Only when I first get my Glock. You grip it for 15 minutes while it cools so it fits properly.

wd40 will make your guns rust more. it combines with dust to turn into sludge that then combines with water. just buy a real fucking lubricant.

For reference.

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Well fuck me sideways and call me the pope it’s a thread about rusty guns and how to prevent them! Let me just leave this incredibly helpful substance here.

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It's like did you clean your parts with soap and water?
The answers is No.

>
how does that work without acid? im skeptical

>hes never bought new* milsurp before

nigga thats a laundry basket with a plastic storage bin beneath it. I mean hey if it works it works amirite

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>shitty water displacer + trapped in foam case
yikes, great way to get rust quickly

I dont fucking know, all I know is I put a bunch of AK parts that were absolutely rusted to shit overnight and got back parts with minor blemishes. Who cares about blems after it gets parkerized or painted though?
Same thing with tools, but no blemishes.
M1 enblocs? Bingo no more rust and no blemishs.

Shit might as well be magic.

you're making me miss mid-late 2000's Jow Forums with the threads about people boiling the cosmoline off their $75 nugget and $200 sks ):

Those were the days. Remember when that user cooked a hotdog on his Nagant bayonet, ate it, and got sick, because it still had cosmoline on it?

i did once with a glock and it melted

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We did this with our HKG3A3's whenever we'd been on an exercise shooting 'blank' ammo which fouled up the rifles to no end. Dismantle them in the shower, let them dry, oil them up and put them together again. Never had rust problems.

G3s and similar get pretty crazy filthy from shooting, I'd definitely just cut my losses and rinse it off in the shower before getting into the cleaning proper.

>go to Jow Forums meet up
>the one faggot brought brownies
>some person literally boiled their gun into a broth
>added some carrots and peas
Wasn’t that bad, but I still stuck to my muhreen MRE of glue, crayons, and jalapeño cheese.

I actually like the taste of corrosive ammo residue.

Why do you even know what it taste like?

Hot water and soap is better then 90% of the cleaners out there, mix it with ballistol so once it evaporates it leaves a coating of oil.

The only reason to boil gun parts is to Blue the steel.

Just wipe it down with ballistol and skip the boiling. It's not worth it.

Corrosive ammo is corrosive because the primers turn into salt. Salt attracts water and then catalyzes the rusting process.

Boiling it does remove some salt but water in general can cause rusting. Heat can also cause the springs to age faster.

Just wipe down with regular water, wipe dry, and oil. That's all that's needed.

>mouth-breathing tard who can't into ballistol patches
>brass-frame owner
Checks out.

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so...better than nothing but there are way better options.

>SAW M240

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>something smells weird user, what are you baking?
>GUNS

Yeah, WD40 has its uses, but the idea that it's some kind of magical cure-all agent for tools and machinery, I think is really strange.

> Putting a hydrophobic oil into water

Should taste like salt.

The propellant it'self turns into air and water vapor but the primer turns into potassium chloride and sodium chloride. Pretty harmless stuff, really, but it likes to pull water out of humid air. Hence, the corrosion problem.

Oh fuck you're one of those Pietta .44 brass-framed Navy mongoloids hahahaha of fucking course

Mostly, it's got a lot of uses. If you've got no idea what you're dealing with and can only bring one kind of oil than WD40 is usually best.

Same reason I'm always packing duct tape. Not the best solution but often A solution.

>doesn't know what moose milk is

I don't even get why people buy those, the .44 Navy only existed as prototypes and the brass frame + beefy .44 load means the lifespan is measured in a few thousands of shots. For about $60 more you can get a historically correct steel frame .36 that will last forever

I use treated boiler feed water from work, so long as you don't mix in air it's extremely hard to cause rust.

Apparently it's something too complex for people who put their colts on stoves to get

You do know they add egg yolk to emulsify, right?

No.

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A tragic wombocombo of ignorance and poverty. OP uses Pyrodex too I bet (bonus if it's in pellet form).

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>He BOILS his parts with all the screws and springs still in

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ive had a brass frame .44 navy for 10 years and its still going strong but i follow the recommended loading of 20gr max and usually just use 15gr which is more than enough for range plinking. in fact ive already worn and had to replace small parts like nipples and and broken trigger spring. it makes for a good beater

What's the point of even having a .44 if you're just going to give it loads that are light even for .36?

there is literally nothing wrong with pyrodex

This this this.
>metal expands but has nowhere to go while still assembled
>pins and springs warp and are misshaped after cooling
>parts no longer fit properly
Enjoy breaking your guns OP.

i dont know i would probably get a .36 if i was just starting out. i think the balls might be a tad bit cheaper, i got my .44 brass navy second hand for $60 so it was a no brainer for me. but for people who are just starting out i think its not a bad option, when they go on sale i think you can find them for under $150, if you stack with cabelas gift cards you can have it new for $120ish. ive loaded mine up to 30grs before and shot a number rounds off that way, so i guess you could argue that it gives you a bit of flexibility to shoot a larger more powerful load when you want to. its not like it will blow up the gun, but sure if you are putting 35gr charges and running a few hundred rounds maybe you will see stretching or stress, i dont know. it seems plenty strong to me, before i knew brass was weaker i was shooting 25gr loads out of it when i first got it

Boil the rounds to help remove some of the corrosive content before you should the next time

this photo is arousing me

Ive got a budget of $400 maximum but id like that to include the supplies I need. What should I get as my first black powder revolver?

A pietta or uberti .36 navy

Other than .36 caliber lead balls and black powder what sort of stuff do i need to clean and fire it? Wax plugs and a pot of boiling water and some ballistol?

Literally just run hot water through the barrel and then clean everything else with a 1/20 mix of ballistol and water.

AY AR FIFTEEN

BOIL EM MASH EM STICK EM A STEW

The power of marketing.

Was this supposed to be funny?