First time AR buyer who just bought a PSA AR. Out of box noticed gouges near stock...

It's called staking. It's what you do when you have a shitty rifle that shoots itself apart.

What said, I'm honestly surprised that PSA even does that

KYS

Staking is kind of contraversial. Technically it's supposed to be staked, per spec (whatever the fuck that's worth) but some manufacturers don't stake for a variety of reasons (excuses?).

When I build one I always shoot it for a while to make sure everything works then stake it.

Loctite is retarded and only basedboys can't stake.

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Literally because it's an added expense, added time, added tool, and added worker.

(((Bean Counters))) going to cheap out even for things that may save their lives.

I wouldn't trust it anyways. Had a PSA lower that was "staked", came loose after 300 rounds. Retightened it, didn't bother restaking it, hasn't come loose since

Is there supposed to be two marks when staking

nah, PSA fucked that one up.

No they missed the first time apparently... It is PSA after all... It doesn't look like they moved a lot of material with either though so don't twist your stock too hard.

Get an AK faggot

you dumb niggers.....

You greatly overvalue the content that comes out of Jow Forums.

this

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It's a manufacturing mark from where the pin was turned; it's normal and not weird to see on cheaper parts.

Would them fucking up the castlenut staking be considered a blem? They charge less for blem so paying full price for it is retarded.

It isn't like you paid much for it in the first place. You get what you pay for.

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How is it that I've never heard of staking the castle nut before. I own four ARs and none of them have it, and I'm thankful for that because the whole thing seems like more of an inconvenience than anything. What if I wanted to put one of those folding stock adapters on there or something, it would be a pain in the ass trying to take that nut off.

You might could get a coupon or something for that 2nd mark, but I wouldn't count on it. Moral of this story should be if you're going to buy from PSA, just order the blemished parts from the start.

it's a budget AR that will work as intended not a Safe Queen. RUN THAT SHIT and stop worrying about.

You play with shit, you're gonna get stained.

You obviously don't browse from catalogue, do you? Jow Forums is a relatively fast board. If a thread doesn't receive a post in a few hours it will fall off page 10.

Atleast you didnt buy a Aero Precision lower. Just to find it has 2 pen marks on it. Brownells says call Aero. Aero says "um, just spray it with CLC". After giving me the run around until my warrenty expires. Fuck Aero. They dont honor their warrenty.
And yes, I own a BCM thats spotless.
The cheaper you go, the more the chances your parts will have blems.

it takes a day or so, doesn't it? just checked, the last thread on the catalog got bumped seven hours ago. That's pretty quick.

>ARs require blemishing the gun so it doesnt fall apart
Mighty AK wins again

Drink less onions and don't be a bitch. It's not very hard to remove it when staked. Endplates are pretty soft metal and fucking cheap.

>How is it that I've never heard of staking the castle nut before

Because you clearly don't know shit or have took the time to do your research. You think the castle nut looks like that for cosmetic reasons? Gooby plz

Thinking about buying a red dot with passive light source, already got my eyes on a Hensoldt RSA-S.
Anybody got experience with it or a cheaper alternative at hand?

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>blemishing
>a firearm
Sometimes I'm reminded that there are people who own guns just to look at them and never use them.

Staking a castle nut. It's common, but it looks like they missed the first one. I wouldn't worry about it, as if you actually shoot the rifle, you're going to get scratches, nicks, and dings in it. Welcome to the wonderful world of ARs.

>Would them fucking up the castlenut staking be considered a blem? They charge less for blem so paying full price for it is retarded.

castle nuts are $4 retail
probably $0.35 wholesale
you could get them on the phone and have a new one shipped to your house

but of course you're not going to - you don't actually care about the condition of your weapon, you just want to jew them out of a few bucks

I would need a castlenut wrench and vise as well. Thats nore than 4 bucks user.

>hurr it's going to get marked up anyways
Not an argument or excuse for shit design

OP here, was planning on getting my PSA cerakoted. Those blemishes will stand out.

you can unscrew a castle nut without a vise

looks like your choice is to either pony up and spend $11 on a wrench, or live with having a tiny dot on your $350 gun

>cerakoting a PSA

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You can tell someone's new to guns by them caring about shit like this.

>First gun

OH NO! I SET IT DOWN TOO HARD ON THE WOOD! THERE'S A SCUFF!

>many guns later
>throws $7,000 worth of handguns uncased in a backpack to go to the range

>Those blemishes will stand out.

god forbid your bargain gun look like a bargain gun after applying fudd fingerpaint to it

... It's not a shit design. It serves a purpose and does it extremely well. And it's not something you usual ever see except on a cheap-as-fuck entry level ar lower you probably bought for 70 dollars...
Pic related is more usual one.

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Take a “properly staked” castle nut, chuck it up in a vise, then take an armorer’s wrench to it and see how easily it breaks.

Now try adding loctite to the mix, let it cure, then try to break it. If you didn’t notice it takes about 3x more force then you shouldn’t be trusted with hand tools let alone guns

And when someone wants it changed or it needs to be replaced and shit is galled or seized up in addition to being glued together I get to charge $50 to torch it, cut the nut off, and really go to town with a pipe wrench. Those fuckers get jammed in there good, sometimes.

Per spec you're actually supposed to apply 33MS to the receiver extension threads to avoid that; once the nut is torqued to ~40ft-lb and staked it's still easy to remove with the proper tools and is locked down well enough mechanically that it won't come loose.

t. armorer

Exactly. That's exactly why loctite is retarded (for this particular application) -- it does the same job of preventing it from loosening up under vibration, but makes it way more difficult when you want it removed.

Lubing the threads with random axle grease, torquing it, and staking it gives you a vibration-proof, but easily disassembled, connection. If you can't see the benefit vs "glue it in place", you shouldn't be trusted with breathing, let alone hand tools.

t.homebuilder who can't be bothered to keep specific mil-spec lube on hand

You just take a flat head and tap it against the stake and it's free...
What is the issue here?
OPs stake job looks like shit. That at least we can all agree on.

If you bought a good, warm sweater for innawoods, but found a small red spot on it, would you just wear it anyway because it's going to get dirty anyway or would you demand a clean sweater so that the only blemishes on it are from you? Are you okay with buying a used car with grease stains on the upholstery because you know you'll drop a few fries every now and again? None of these things are fine fucking China, but you better believe I want my shit factory pristine so I can be the one to fuck it up.

That is factory pristine at your price point

>blemishes are normal at PSA for new rifles
>sell blemish version of products for cheaper

What did they mean by this?

the AK is one big blemish I don't see the point that is trying to be made here

Tools get used and get marks you faggot with your safe queen guns. Get the Fuck off Jow Forums you stupid bitch

>If you bought a good, warm sweater for innawoods, but found a small red spot on it, would you just wear it anyway
Yes, because it would be an issued NATO wooly pully, the only sweater anyone will ever need.

It's a nice red dot, can't go wrong with it.

wooly pullys are the tits

5 star post desu

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It the castle nut, it's staked. It's okay, normal and supposed to be there. No worries.

A couple tips because this is your first.
-1
>congratulations user!
-2
>do not use WD40 as lube, use a weapons grade high-temp lube oil. The weapons oils are not scams despite what people say. The are chemically engineered to have the appropriate amount of viscosity for metal to metal contact, and laboratory rated for high temp operations.
-3
>if you get a can aka (supressor), use sub sonic ammunition.
-4
>if you use sub sonic ammo, they have a harder time cycling and being properly ejected from the chamber as there is less powder. Look into another buffer tube if you have this problem.
-5
>If you get a Red Dot sight, spend the money user. Your life could depend on it. Meprolight, Trijicon, EoTech, Aim Point are all decent and have stood up to the rigors of war.
-6
>If you opt for a CCO (Close Quarters Optic) or Red Dot, for God sake get iron sight too, preferably with tritium for night ops.

>do not use WD40 as lube, use a weapons grade high-temp lube oil. The weapons oils are not scams despite what people say. The are chemically engineered to have the appropriate amount of viscosity for metal to metal contact, and laboratory rated for high temp operations.

So is bearing grease and motor oil

CLP is shit garbage
I use Hoppes gun oil

That gouge locks the castle nut. Only one missed strike on a part that’s replaced often isn’t worth being a Jew imhofampai

Everyone in this thread is absolutely retarded and makes me feel right at home.

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You're good, friend. Those are stake marks, purposely warping the metal to make the nut stay put no matter what it get's put through.

Weapon is fine, amigo.