Bow huntin

>This is my second year bow huntin
Oh you sweet, innocent moron.

>I’m sort of a minimalist I think I’m gonna go recurve next year.
Go for it, but if you do you're going to have much better luck getting out of the stand and learning how to stalk well. Just remember that the learning curve with traditional archery is much steeper than with a compound even though it is similar. Go full Fred Bear of go home.

>As far as the peep sight. I don’t even use it (pls no bully) I can’t figure the fucking thing out. I just practice and hunt using the arrowhead
You see that plastic knob on it? That is meant to attach to a rubber tube that attaches to the bow so it lines up. You can either get a piece of surgical tubing to attach it back or get a new string (recommended because it looks old as fuck) with a better peep tied into it. You are putting yourself at a disadvantage by not using it.

Do you have a release? What poundage are you shooting at? What is your typical arrow weight? How comfortable are you shooting past 20 yards?

I’ll try to address this all,
>yeah kinda, been hunting since I was 13 tho
>stalking is what I want. I wanna get that good.
>that made very little sense to me. Tubing sounds wild.
>I do have a release, it seems gimmicky I can’t think of a benefit.
>50atm (am manlet)
>I have no idea about arrow weight? Carbon fiber, camo handmedowns from my dad
>furthest I’m confident is 30 in my yard, I *try* not to go past 20 inna woods because I don’t wanna miss.

Damn I'm at the very top of the park

>stalking is what I want. I wanna get that good.
Still hunt. Read the wind, move slowly, deliberately, and quietly. The goal is to see the animal then begin the stalk. This requires you to simply see the animal. Always remember it's not a matter of if you get busted, but rather when.

>that made very little sense to me. Tubing sounds wild.
All the tubing does is pull the peep sight to align with the sight when you draw the string back.

>I do have a release, it seems gimmicky I can’t think of a benefit.
They are not. You get more consistent and smoother releases out of them. Do you have a release point on your bowstring? It should be a little D loop around where you nock the arrow. Is your bow set to your draw length?

>50atm (am manlet)
For white tail this is fine. I rarely torque my poundage above 58.

>I have no idea about arrow weight?
Most arrows will have a listing on shaft that is measured in GPI (grains per inch).

>Carbon fiber, camo handmedowns from my dad
Get new ones and get them cut.

>furthest I’m confident is 30 in my yard, I *try* not to go past 20 inna woods because I don’t wanna miss.
More than reasonable. But get your confidence up at the 40 yard line. Once those shots become easier 20 will seem like a chip shot.

Good draw weight for a beginner? I have bow experience from day camp as a child long ago so I know some basics.

Get out you faggot no bows

Height? Weight? Age? Athletic ability? How many pull ups can you do? I would suggest a 30lb recurve to an 18-25 year old 5'8, athletic and in shape. 25 or 20 for anyone stagnant and sits on computers all day.

YOU DO NOT WANT TO BE OVERBOWED WHEN STARTING OUT. DO NOT BE MACHO AND GET EXTRA POUNDAGE.

Compounds are adjustable. After a few months with a 25lbs recurve you could easily pull back a 40lb compound.

I learned the hard way cuz a 45# bow was cheap on Craigslist... The skill, technique and fundamentals are paramount to shooting properly. Target recurve shooters swear that you should be able to go to fu draw, hold anchor point for minimum 30 seconds, ideally 45-minute.

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Yeah stalking seems like one of those things you just sorta, get out there and try.
That makes sense, I don’t get it but I’ll look for a YouTube thing later thanks.
Yeah there is a spot for one, and i try it sometimes while I’m practicing. I think I get like. How it all works, I just can’t imagine the differences being significant.
Yeah I mean 50 seems perfect for what I want, I think I’m gonna try to add a little bit of weight before I go next weekend Incase of bigger critters. (I carry a sidearm regardless)
I’ll look into later, what should I aim for?
What does cut mean?
Yeah I think practice is the solution to a bunch of problems.

But also. No one has suggested any broadheads or arrows yet.

>I’ll look into later, what should I aim for?
Heavier arrow will have more mass behind it when it hits a target. I know the speed freaks are in vogue right now but a good weight arrow will put down a deer faster than a lighter one traveling faster. Personally, I like 8.5 GPI and up.

>What does cut mean?
Cut to your draw length. I know it doesn't seem like it matters but it can affect the flight of the arrow and reduce your accuracy at longer distances if the arrow is not cut to your draw length.

>But also. No one has suggested any broadheads or arrows yet.
I have already suggested slick tricks. Go find a good archery shop and look for what you want.

25lbs recurve

Sticks in targets at 50 yards and doesn't destroy your shoulder before you've developed strength in muscles gym bros didn't know existed. Teaches good form because form errors throw the arrow very, very far off as opposed to a more forgiving compound.

>I know the speed freaks are in vogue right now but a good weight arrow will put down a deer faster than a lighter one traveling faster.

If an arrow has enough energy to blow through the broad side of a deer, it doesn't matter if it's a heavy arrow or a light arrow. Any arrow correctly tuned for 50lbs+ of draw weight (250 grains minimum) will have that much power. Unless you hit the shoulder = venison in fridge

A light arrow has the benefit of having a flatter trajectory, meaning you're more likely to hit said vitals even though you might have made some error estimating range to target. Heavier arrows are better for elk and bear, where shots are usually shorter, AND you need penetration.

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Hey guys I'm looking at getting into archery. I have been lurking these threads as well as digging around my search engine.

1. Can I have some brands/models recommendations on a quality beginner recurve? I'm not ready for hunting yet so not thinking of compound at all yet.

2. Crossbows seem fun as well, any decent entry level there?

I also want to into fletching.
3. What's a quality fletching jig i'll never want to upgrade?
4. who makes the quality shafts/nocks/fletches/arrowheads?

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Best advice anyone can give you is to drive out to your closest quality archery shop. They are always extremely helpful.

A 25lbs Samick Sage is thee beginners bow.

A bow shop will only have quality equipment. If you buy online you're gonna come across rebranded China shit

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Oh yeah, the Sage is now a "Southwest" or something. They have nicer limb pockets and shoot a little smoother. And have a pretty red stripe in the wood

Crossbows are not common or ever affiliated with "archery". They are categorized with firearms for hunting. You can't shoot them at gun ranges, nor archery ranges because they tear up targets.

Kinda neat that you can get a crossbow AR15 upper.

Fuck buying a desert eagle when I get promoted, I'm get a wicked recurve bow.

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Sooooo dope.

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so what do crossbow fags do to practice?

It's a small niche, mostly rural backyards. There are specific crossbow targets that super dense. Crossbow bolts differ from bow arrows, I think regular arrows get worn down or can get crooked if use often in crossbow targets.

Crossbows huck heavy bolts at 400+ fps. Whereas a fast recurve is like 170fps, a fast compound is 280. (advertised speeds are with super light arrows)

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Absolute faggot of the worst kind.

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That's why I shoot traditional and wood arrows.

>Fiberglass

The absolute worst.

How could you ever stab yourself if you shoot arrows that are ~1-2" arrows longer than your DL? Mine is 30.5" and leave my arrows uncut, usually 32" plus long 125gr fieldpoints

Pics of your gear man I wanna see

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