Other than the obvious of it not having a serial number, are there any other benefits of the 80% Glocks...

I should say that mine shot fine after some fitting issues, and there were alignment issues with either the jig or the internal parts being off some that were a pain in the ass to deal with. P80 was cool about it and sent additional parts. Just didn't do anything for me and kind of felt like I burned a lot of calories doing it instead of just buying a regular gun.

Local cash sales and if they ask my name it's always Rusty Shackleford

So we should all have a glock in the safe and our other guns would stay cleaner? Neat!

I've built 2, and they've both run flawlessly. My black one has over a thousand rounds in it now and it hasn't had a malfunction of any kind. The blue has less rounds, but it's also been flawless. I honestly can't say the same about my 3 other Glock brand Glocks.

I'd probably take the black one to hell with me, if I could.

Attached: p80s.png (617x486, 574K)

>Sold it

Bought two of the smoothframe ReadyMod ones on sale at Midway for $75/ea. Normally just one (1) Poly80 frame is $150, so I feel like I got a really good deal. Now I'm wondering what to do with them
>make one g19 & 1 g23/32
>make one g23
>make one g19 & keep the other one unfinished for just incase

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There are a lot of people who build custom Glocks (glockstore.com/custom-build-gallery) where they basically buy a Glock and then throw out 90% of the parts to replace them with aftermarket stuff. Now you don't have to bother doing that - you can literally build a Glock from scratch with no factory OEM parts at all.

There are also some people (like me) who like the ergos on the P80 frame better than the factory Glock frames.

>Serial number doesn't matter, you automatically go on a special list when you order them, USPS collects data on your packages especially when they come from gun related shippers.
Bullshit.

Good start. I'd add that the rail sections on the P80 have about 30-40% more mass and provide better lock-up and engagement, not to mention durability.

You are not building a glock here, you're building something designed to function with the same mechanisms as a glock. The difference is, P80s are handfitted and require a little more attention to detail. But one that is properly fitted and functioning will probably deliver better performance and longevity than a factory glock (P80 build in question having stock LPK and slide from glock, only difference being the lower frames)

Kicking around the idea of a Longboi from a 19 style frame

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Since they are rather cheap, I wasn't afraid to take a file and make the my first one fit my hand.
The second one just feels better than any Glock ever has in my grip so thats why I went with it.
First one, which was a v1.5 had a lot of issues stemming from the trigger holes in the jig being too high.
Second, which is a v.2, is completely working. Have had 4 failure to eject in about 500 rounds but I need to play around with the recoil spring for that.

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Wrong pic.
That was to show how easy it is to stimple the plain lower.

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I built 2 19's, one with a Glock brand Glock slide and one with a Brownells top window RMR slide. First was full stock parts and ran just like a normal Glock, second one I bought Zev internals and it runs like a fucking top. Also, the guy that mentioned that it fits a normal hand and not an Austrian claw is very much correct. It makes for an actual comfortable grip.

Got any tips/advice on finishing the frame? I've seen a bunch of videos regarding doing so but I'm just curious. Planning on just doing the whole thing with
>corded hand drill
>hand file set
>sandpaper
>flat snip pliers
>maybe a dremel

They are supposed to be releasing a new one that takes G17 uppers and had the grip size of the G19.
So you can just use any G17, 22, 34 or 35 slide and have the same grip as the G19.
I kinda want to get one to throw my G34 slide on just for the hell of it.

Brownell's does do a 17 length slide for a 19 frame. Unfortunately no 17L length slides yet, but a threaded barrel with a comp would still be comically large

The v2 frames are super simple.
Just take your time drilling your holes for the pins. Thats the only step that really affects how the gun functions.
The other things like removing the top blocks do not affect functionality at all. Still take your time to make it look nice but its not hard.
Also the inner barrel blocking part can be a pain cause its a weird spot. As long as the recoil spring clears thats the important part.

The locking block is the real pain of the polymer80 series. It will not go in easy, it never does. Try removing some plastic from the top edges first then go from there.
Once I had the locking block in, I installed all the pins and lightly hit the area with a heatgun to let it relax into place. That seemed to help a lot with getting pins in and the block can come out if needed. Just remember only a little bit of heat is needed.
Even if you take your time it should be like an hour or 2 max. Good luck with it.

Love my poly 80 glock 19. Some advantages over a stock glock:
>beaver tail
>1913 rail
>improved angle on the grip
>no finger grooves
>undercuts on trigger guard already done for you
>joy of building your own gat
>getting to know your gun very intimately
Currently using my bone stock aside from the sights. Have a couple thousand rounds through it.

Sorry I didnt clarify, I meant Polymer80 has a G19 frame that takes G17 uppers.
Heres a link that explains it.

gunsholstersandgear.com/2018/08/20/polymer80-pf940cl-80-pistol-frame/

Picatinny rail instead of glock rail, supposedly it's more comfortable, and you can engrave naughty words in the serial plate

Attached: Cat with Gat.jpg (4608x3456, 1.99M)

Get an xacto knife for shaving tiny bits down. Also a small cylindrical file for smoothing out the pin holes is nice.

>packages
>implying anyone with a brain would order them online instead of buying them with cash
lol

Thanks for following up! Too late for me but hopefully someone else benefits and we see some looongboi builds soon

>Sold it

I need that blue one
Do LGS's typically sell them, or where are you buying them with cash? Gun shows?

>USPS collects data on your packages especially when they come from gun related shippers
why bother

Objectively better grip, subjectively better grip angle. Depending on how big of a deal that is to you, you may only ever use P80's or just buy glocks.

Already a P80 that does that.

I haven't seen any local gun shops sell them around me but have seen multiple tables with them at the bigger gun shows.
Though if you want to really fly under the radar with it, you cant buy any parts for it online or with a card either.
Buying Glock mags or parts online when you don't "have" a glock gets you on a list also.
It's easier to accept that every single person is probably on multiple lists at this point and just live your life.

boston.cbslocal.com/2018/10/24/cambridge-illegal-guns-seizes-mathew-devine/

>A member of the United States Postal Inspection Services reported suspicious deliveries at Devine’s home, which led to the investigation.

>boston

what a shitty attitude

SEX:

l2u.su/qblD
--------
kimunjybthvgrfcdx

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All that time and money and he didn't use them when the time came to, not even on himself. What was the point? Was he selling them?

Tbh with that many lists, I wouldn’t even worry. The government is simply not competent enough to bust that many people.

No but there are some Bloomberg puppet groups that have a plan to "out" gun owners and try to ruin them by getting them fired, swatting, boycotting businesses etc.

Fedex Indianapolis hub guy here. Nice try lying, faggot, but we literally can't do that without fucking the entire sort up for days on end. We don't give a shit.

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>not Richard Head.

It was an expensive build. If you want to go gucci, you gotta go all the way.

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It's the drivers.

Pls, you write Mike Littorez and check the Hispic box

I really just want that blue frame, otherwise I'd be fine going stainless and stock internals. Can someone post a full list of tools needed to do this at home?

I loved mine to death, I got it all milled out and good to go, fired off like 100 rounds through it. Went home happy, played with it, then all of a sudden it stopped firing when i pull the trigger, if i hold the trigger in and then barely pull the slide back just almost by tapping it it fires. Too worried to try to run ammo through it. Idk how to fix

possibly so you can get a new frame after you do this.

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Implying USPS or ups drivers give half of a shit about that stuff

Is your takedown lever loose as fuck?? When you rack slide does it move?

Crucial:
Hammer
Drill (manual is almost better than electric)
Razor

Would be nice:
A punch
Lectrical tape
C clamps or vice

I love how the stippling is literally designed to make your hand slip down and then prevent you from choking back up on it. Fugly and beyond stupid...

And sandpaper/dremel are very nice. Especially dremel

I think you might have put it in backwards

I did one completely by hand for shiggles. Yes, with a hand-crank drill. (This is honestly stupid, more chance of fucking the pin holes than with a variable-speed electric drill, but did just fine with lots of fast cranking, and very light pressure.)

The top is easy to do, roughing with nippers and finishing with files. The recoil spring channel, though, is a little annoying by hand -- a dremel makes it a lot quicker. And probably the best/fastest way (though I haven't tried this yet) would be to carefully drill through with a ~3/8" drill to remove the bulk of the material, then clean up the sides with whatever means. Actually thinking about making a steel bushing that nests in the front of the slide and guides a drill, next time I do one (which will probably be a PF940CL -- thinking about a G24-slide .357sig blaster.

The locking block is a bitch on the full-size frames. (It's not bad on the compact, though -- I don't know yet which the compact/longslide will take after.) To avoid making it any worse, make double sure you've got all the burrs from the holes there gone (use an x-acto knife or similar) before you install it. And they've got instructions on how to use a ~7/16" plastic rod to get it in -- do that. You can get it in without, but that's really the easiest (well, least obnoxiously difficult) way to get it in there.

FWIW, I've done two PF940v2 and one PF940C, and none of them have needed any "hand-fitting" related to the frame. Now the compact one (pic related) did need some hand fitting to make everything work right, but that's the slide's fault, not the frame.

Attached: glock_und_wesson.jpg (2048x1152, 666K)

There is information going around that you can assemble a Mech-Tech carbine upper onto a Polymer80 frame, but you need to make a few small modifications.
This information is OUT OF DATE -- it apparently refers to an earlier version, possibly the original Spectre. I've assembled a Mech-Tech CCU onto a PF940v2, with ZERO modifications to either, and it works great.
(Nobody in this thread has indicated any interest in carbine conversions, but I hate bad information, so just putting it out there.)

That's way more aesthetic with the S&W slide. Any modifications that need done to make that happen?

Does that actually shoot?

Attached: X-Tendo.jpg (4608x3456, 1.92M)

...d-does it work??

Well fuck, I have all that already

that's not boston, that's Cambridge. As in where all of the Harvard (((professors))) live. It's worse than Boston. Boston is just money-grubbing - Cambride is SF or Portland or ground 0 of poz.

Drivers don't have that capability, fag boy, otherwise routes would be fucked and your gas costs would skyrocket while your dumb ass conspiracy delays deliveries by compiling a list of gun company deliveries.

You are a retard, I handle this shit out of the largest hub in the us. We don't even track the fucking horse semen or baby alligators. True story, both have spilled in the same day.

Please tell me it was the same truck and some poor fucker had to deal with cum covered gators.

Takedown lever is not loose, everything is actually super tight. Im baffled. I heard people having problems and putting like a credit card shim somewhere in it, i haven't watched any videos of where though.

Evidence has been posted, and there's plenty more. Memphis is a shithole btw.

This is great info as I was doing research on this about a month ago.
Which stock do you have on the Mech Tech? I'd like to get the telescoping one but it looks flimsy.

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informeddelivery.usps.com/box/pages/intro/start.action

You, sir, are either a complete retard or one of the most masterful trolls on here.

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It works if you make it work; the Sigma isn't quite as close a clone as people like to say, but it's pretty close.
>frame/slide fit is gtg.
nuff said
>barrel works, but isn't optimal
The slot in the Sigma barrel's locking lug is in the same position as the G19, but the (looser) width of the G17.
So it unlocks correctly, but doesn't ride up the locking block to lock fully. It still locks up, though, because it rides up the angle of the slide lock. Shoots just fine, in 9mm and .40, with no sign of early unlocking, but I expect it would wallow out the slide lock slot over time. The front of the barrel locking lug, where it interfaces with the slide lock and recoil spring, is a little different too, causing the slide to stop maybe 1mm back from where it should be -- but that's no problem.
I'm currently using a Storm Lake G23 barrel, though, and I just had to file little chamfers on the left and right edges of the lowered step in front of the barrel hood, because the Sigma slide has radiuses in those corners. Fits into the ejection port perfectly, and obviously fits the locking block like it was made to (because it was). However, the Sigma's captive recoil spring is now about 1mm too short -- I believe a Glock 19/23 recoil spring assembly would have corrected it (and certainly an aftermarket, non-captive setup would have), but I just added a shock-buffer to make up the difference.
>fire control
This is the most complicated part, so it gets its own post.

Attached: essential modifications.jpg (2048x1152, 788K)

>fire control
There's three issues.
First, the Sigma sear is deeper in the frame and farther forward, so the Sigma striker hook is taller and more hook-shaped -- viewed from the side, it's a J instead of an L. The striker's overall length is also shorter. The depth is completely remedied, and the fore-and-aft position mitigated, by milling, filing, or grinding the hook down to Glock dimensions. The shorter striker length means more spring compression at the standard Glock release point, yielding a staple-gun trigger. I mitigated that by installing an aftermarket light-weight striker spring in the Sigma slide -- the reduced force, combined with the longer travel, still gives plenty of energy for reliable ignition.
(I believe a Gen5 Glock striker and spring could be substituted, or the round hole in the breechface could be opened up to a slot and a normal Glock striker substituted.)

The second issue is the reset. Glocks use a horizontal cam pushing the connector to the left, while Sigmas use a vertical cam pushing the trigger bar downward. Fortunately, milling/dremeling away part of the vertical cam turns it into a horizontal cam. The cams have rather different profiles, changing the abruptness and location of resistance when cycling the slide. The resistance starting when the slide's halfway back feels like something's jammed up. And as the slide returns forward, the extra resistance as the cam abruptly engages (vs. the gentle slope on the Glock) just about balances the recoil spring and can hold the slide still, if you're easing it forward. But when you rack the slide all the way back and release it, or during actual recoil operation, it works just fine.

The third issue is that the trigger bar hump to operate the firing pin safety is too tall on Glock parts, and drags on the inside of the Sigma slide if you cycle it with the trigger held back. This is trivially fixed by grinding about 0.02" or 0.03" off the trigger bar while keeping the same shape.

Attached: glock_und_wesson_31.jpg (2048x1152, 591K)

Oh, and one more thing -- removing and installing the Sigma slide is a little twitchy. Maybe I just need to take another smidgeon off the trigger bar, but it wants to hang up on the new horizontal cam.

So what I do when taking it off:
>pull trigger (as usual)
>pull slide back 1/8" and disengage slide lock (as usual)
>move slide forward just enough to be sure slide lock won't re-engage
>push trigger forward until trigger dingus engages, keeping it forward (and thus the firing-pin safety hump down)
>remove slide off front of frame.
Same thing for reassembly:
>make sure the trigger is locked forward
>start slide on front rail
>slide rearward until rear rail is engaged
>pull trigger enough to disengage trigger dingus
>finish assembling as normal

>The third issue is that the trigger bar hump to operate the firing pin safety is too tall on Glock parts, and drags on the inside of the Sigma slide if you cycle it with the trigger held back. This is trivially fixed by grinding about 0.02" or 0.03" off the trigger bar while keeping the same shape

I did some of this anyways even though I have a factory glock slide. Really smoothed the action (was also noticing drag when holding trigger and cycling...which is proper technique so I said 'let's fix that shit').

BTW thank you for your very in depth posts. This is why I love the P80s - sparked a whole new level of interest in how these mechanisms interface. Reloading and building ARs also scratches that...

Probably gonna save this in some way. Very good info and delivery. Been curious about this kinda thing for a while. Is there a verdict on slide compatibility with the M&P line??

Probably a broken spring in the trigger group. Post pictures with good light. Also what slide??

No shims please...putting pieces in your gun that can dislodge and interfere with things is a terrible idea

I have the wire telestock. It's no marvel of rigidity, but it's just fine for what it is.
My brother cheekwelds on the wire stock RIGHT behind the receiver, and has complained that the sheet-metal catch on back of the receiver is sharp and uncomfortable; I cheekweld on top of the receiver instead, so I find it perfectly comfortable, and really don't notice any wobbliness in shooting it. (I've got a red-dot on it, so eye relief isn't a thing.)
My only stock-related complaint is that the glue holding my rubber pad on is loose, so the pad keeps sliding off. But this CCU I bought use (quite some years old, though I'm not sure the previous owner ever shot it); the current production telestocks are a different design that shouldn't have that issue.

Be sure and get one of those Korean 50-round drums for box-at-a-time range fun; this carbine is just an absolute blast to rapid-fire. Not talking bump-firing, as we ran out of ammo last range trip before we even got to trying that; just squeezing the trigger over and over while the dot bounces around, but never leaves the target. The combination of size, weight, and recoil is really just delightful.

I took pictures while doing it, with the idea of making an infographic at some point. But I've got to come up with a bunch of measurements and so on, so it may be months before I get around to that. Glad you found this ad-hoc version interesting/helpful.

and here's a picture with the Glock cam (G22 slide) for reference.

Attached: glock_und_wesson_27.jpg (2048x1152, 818K)

Learn to read
Gun parts don't come in fucking letters

Thats a very good review of the stock. I couldn't really find first hand knowledge out in other forums.
A 50 round drum in one of those seems like a blast. Would also make a good truck gun it seems.

Forgot to answer about the M&P line. In short: I have no idea.
I've looked at the SDxVE instead of the SWxVE, and I don't expect it to work as well. The cutout for the extractor pin seems likely to catch the bump on the Glock trigger bar. You'd want an old bump-less trigger bar (or grind the bump off a current one), then maybe it would do with the same modifications as the SWxVE.

The M&P has the same pinned extractor issue, plus it has a large radius on the front end for a double-recoil spring assembly -- like a Gen4, not like Gen3. So the only candidate Polymer80 frame is the PF940SC.
More serious problems include having a horizontal reset cam -- but it's on the wrong side (pushes from center to outside). No way to convert that by machining; you'd need to weld the slide up or dovetail in a new hunk of metal to cut the new reset cam in. And the firing pin safety is at the back, not the front, so you'd have to disable it. (Or at best, make it serve only as an out-of-battery safety.)
And of course, I just don't know if the M&P rails are the same dimensions, or even anywhere close. It's amazing luck (or rather, an unamazing copy) that the SW9VE slide fits the Glock/P80 rails in the first place. Unless Smith & Wesson kept the frame rails exactly the same on the M&P series (and why would they? as far as I know, there's no parts commonality between the two), it doesn't seem likely that this lightning would strike twice.

>Now you don't have to bother doing that - you can literally build a Glock from scratch with no factory OEM parts at all.
Yeah, I'm putting together a build kit for someone, and adding it all up, it turns out there's only gonna be two Glock parts in it.
>PF940C in robin egg blue
>22TCM9R barrel and recoil spring assembly
>pic related slide (can't put boring black with that pretty blue)
>Now all controls, pins, extractor, and slide cover plate, are stainless/chrome (black with silver accents can be nice, but silver with black accents is just wrong)
>LW adjustable trigger (cheapest option in blue/silver instead of black)
>LW titanium striker and safety plunger (because fuck it, why not)
>Even the mag catch spring is aftermarket, reduced-power spring (can always go back to standard if there's a problem with accidental mag drops)
The two Glock parts:
>trigger housing (I dislike the fit on LW's "universal" housings, and the overtravel screw on the left side is mechanically offensive)
>slide lock spring (no reason, I just have one left over)

Attached: stainless.jpg (1000x1000, 35K)

Damn user, that's a lot of info, way more than I expected to get. Thank you, especially for the info on the S&W fuckery.

DESU the largest downside the that they don't necessarily fit normal glock holsters.

Yeah, I have a TLR-1 on my poly22, so I carry it in the corresponding Blackhawk Omnivore. Works great, but if you want an IWB holster, you don't have many options. Especially if you've got a light on it.

I'd pay up to $500 for a stainless P80 frame, and maybe $400 for aluminum alloy.

How reusable are the jigs that come with the p80?

Wow a normal Glock would be so much less ugly if the back of the slide was angled like that.

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Never tried it, because each one comes with a new jig. The forward holes shouldn't be much of a problem, but the side force from starting on a sloped surface is bound to egg out the trigger housing pin hole in the jig, which is gonna throw you off the second time around.
If for some reason I wanted to use one jig for multiple blanks, I think I'd drill the holes out and epoxy steel bushings in their places before I started, but even then, I assume the factory jigs have that hole offset to compensate for the effect of drilling on a slanted surface, and I'd be concerned that correction will be wrong with the drill supported by steel instead of plastic.

Curious why, though. Do you have a lead on some blanks that just need the holes drilled, but don't come with their own jigs?

I know, right? I actually like the look almost as much as the idea that it's a completely unique build.

Glock fags BTFO, dusty gun having motherfuckers.

I don't think such a lead exists, and if it does I certainly don't have it. It was more of a curiosity thing since I'd love to find a way to get the price down a little. That said, I don't think it's an unfair price to pay considering you get the 80%, jig, and tooling for your money.

Yeah, I hear you on that.
IIRC the SS80 (80% G43) is sold separate from the jigs, so that might be reusable, but I have no interest in single-stacks.

yep. any kydex glock holster is fine, you just need to zap it with a heat gun to get it just right for the p80. the contoured finger rest on the trigger guard and the rail are the main hang up spots.

Nope, upstairs in the conveyor sort after they came off the jets. No, we did not find all the baby alligators. Horse semen spilled in one of the AMJ cans. Your package you sent to grandma had stallion DNA on it.

Seriously, your shit BARELY gets to where it's supposed to be after some guy being paid 13$ an hour Hucks it against a metal backstop. There is zero time to check your shit for what we think might be an upper receiver, how many you ordered, how recently, etc. That's Amazon level shit. If we don't want to lose millions, we just go 'lalala probably not drugs' and ship the shit. Drivers aren't checking either, that's engine time and gas costs. We don't even like taking left turns because how much it costs.

And your packages might have horse semen and baby Gators in them, so the less we know, the happier we are.

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I don't know about benefits but it is a fun afternoon project if you are into the mechanical aspect of the hobby, and is a nice way to get your toe wet when it comes to gunsmithing.

From my view the fact that it doen't have a serial is just a side perk. I like it for the same reason I like building bikes from a bare frame on up from different parts to get the bike like.
It is the same thing only in the case of guns it is almost like you are forming a special relationship since it is legally speaking bound to you as the owner for the rest of your life or the life span of the firearm (with a few exceptions and loopholes).

Bust them for what. This is totally legal as long as you are legally able to own a firearm.