Blades

I have other knives, like this JX2, designed by a youtuber (but an outstanding knife, despite a hefty, $235+ price tag).

That's the sort of knife i'd call a one-tool option for going innawoods. I'd hesitate to call it a survival knife, though, because survival is an emergency, and this is not an emergency knife. It's great, but a 4.5 inch blade is not something you carry in case of emergency.

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This, on the other hand, makes a great survival knife.

1/8'' thick, 3'' blade, made from D2, with micarta scales. Just enough to do whatever you need to do, but not too big to edc, and with a bit of extra toughness due to full tang construction, over stick tang knives like the puukko posted earlier.

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A sword, however, is completely different.

You don't use a sword for anything other than fighting, and the one I actually use, is not really a sword, but a blunt, reenactment blade.
Pic related: top is sharp, bottom is a blunt, reenactment "sword" with a 3mm thick edge - essentially a steel bar. Both have historically correct, 8.5cm grips, but outside of reenactment, and HEMA, swords in this day and age are purely ceremonial/dress weapons.

Although now that I think about it, I believe there's a place in Switzerland, where it is mandatory, on one holiday, to wear a sword. Can't quite put my finger on it though.

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As for axes, I've always been a fan of the shepherd's axe (aka ciupaga, valaska, fokos, or baltag, depending on who you ask). Pic related.

Light axe, with a 90-100 cm haft, that doubles as a walking stick. Perfect for hikes, especially in the mountains, where it serves as a support, and a very decent weapon. Not as effective at chopping trees as a regular axe, but fine for dealing with 90+% of what you need to do (unless you are a carpenter).

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Really, you only need the following:

1. main belt knife. Something 4-5 inches long, with a simple handle, and not too heavy. 1/8 inch thick is heavy duty, 3/32'' if you want something that cuts better. Generally stay away from anything 4+ mm thick - not worth it in most cases.

2. small knife. 2.5-3 inch blade, lightweight and fairly narrow. Better for edc (if you want to edc a fixed blade) than a main belt knife (unless you live out in the sticks).

3. folding knife. A light pocket knife for when you can't have anything else (like fancy dress occasions), and as an equally viable edc option. Wether it's a classic (slipjooint) folder, or a modern one with all the bells and whistles(one-handed opening/closing, frame/axis/compression/tri-ad lock, pocket clip, etc.).

4. Specialty knives: for kitchen work (pic related, a paring knife), or things like x-acto knives, etc. Things with a very narrow application, that you have, and use, for one thing.

5. multitool. Wether you go with a classic SAK, or a leatherman-type knife-and-pliers combo, those come in handy somethimes.

For a car/truck knife i'd suggest something in the 1st category (main belt knife), but stainless, because I assume you mean to keep it in your car, in case you need it.

for axes, a 2 pound head is great if you do a lot of woodworking, but you might want something lighter (1 handed) for general use while hiking.
All depends on how much you want to spend, and wether you want a cheap axe, or something custom made for $200+.

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>Jow Forums, I come bearing blade related questions.
>1.
>EDC normal
Para 2
>EDC conceal
I carry and obake but whatever you can fit on your belt. If I'm concealing it from normalfags I just carry a Swiss army knife or something non threatening
>EDC classy
Great eastern stockman
>innawoods
Mora for cheap if not that condor kephart
>combat
Cold steel recon tanto
>dressing
Buck 119
>car/truck knife
Glock knife
>2. what are quality axe/hatchet for actual innawoods long term use, not showing off on the weekend.
Husqvarna
Council tool
Prandi
Hults bruk
Hultafors
Snow and neally
>3. same question but a saw.
Silky or Banco
>4. what some quality but not retardedly priced kitchen knives?
Victorinox
>5. how many knives do you have on you right now?
2

After all my mistakes I recommend Entrek for a good tacticlol knife. The best hands down.

I also recommend Bill Harsey as a designer, Spartan Blades might be top tier.

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how trash is my first knife?

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>how trash

white trash

>EDC normal
CS Eland, Extrema Ratio Rezolza large
>EDC conceal
Ti Lite VI
>EDC classy
Frank B Switchblade
>innawoods
Any carbon steel puukko with 10 cm or longer blade, like Ahti Juhla.
>combat
Puukko with blade larger than 12 cm, NR-40 or ER 39-09
>dressing
No idea
>car/truck knife
Locals like Recon Tanto for that job, so why not?
It looks boring

Spartan blades is ok in terms of quality - they make really nice things, but I feel they are too much of a "look how cool and exclusive our stuff is".

Once you are in the custom knives price range (anything above $200), you really have little excuse for not being a custom knife.

I’d say pretty much has it. For your list:
>EDC normal
Good folder or small fixed blade. I like my Benchmade Griptilian but anything by Benchmade, Spyderco, US made Kershaw, etc. are quality without being stupid expensive. For a fixed blade it’s hard to beat an Esee Izula (I prefer the II)
>EDC conceal
Same as your edc normal. Don’t use the clip on a folder or get an iwb or knock sheath for a fixed.
>EDC classy
A fancy handled Case is classic.
>innawoods
Larger fixed blade. I’m a big fan of Esees. I also really like my Tops B.O.B. Moras are great for the price, but the newer bushcraft specific models get a little pricy.
>combat
I view this as in three categories: utility, “fighting” knives, and get-off-me knives.
Utility is gonna be your edc and/or a medium fixed blade with suitable sheath.
“Fighting” knives are cool but stupid to actually carry. Pick a suitable utility knife that can dual use. Ka-Bar is the classic, Esee 6 would work.
Get-off-me knives are something like the Benchmade SOCP dagger, Ka-Bar LDK, the Colonel, or a push dagger.
>dressing
The new knives several companies made that have replaceable blades are top for this. Always sharp and the blades are pretty cheap.
>car/truck knife
Whatever big innawoods knife you have that you don’t feel like hauling in your hip.

Stupid knife

>survival knife
>3 inch blade
Nah.

This weekend is going to be fun in Moscow, since there will be large knife expo in Sokolniki. Is anyone going to check it?

OP here, thanks for all the suggestions everyone, i've started looking through the models you guys have listed.

My 17yr old basic-bitch normie sister has a better self-defense knife than that.

Solid black hande/blade, steel, 4 inch business end with smooth action and good weight. She usually uses it to cut string and eat apples, but I wouldn't wanna be the guy who tries to grab her at a party.

Modern Tacticool shortswords are somewhat practical. Can be used as machetes basically, and are much easier to use in a real fight than a longsword.

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Is their a camping butcher knife? I like the profile

That handle would destroy your hands after 3 good swings.

Check the filename

>self-defense knife
>"hers is better"
>doesnt even know what knife your whore sister has
>implying shell ever pull it out if she gets attacked

Not that poster either

What blade

Could've done better for the price. See pic related.

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Sauce?

+1 RAT is one of the best knives for the money. I spent a little more to pick up the assisted one. Definitely recommend

What's some Jow Forums approved sword makers? I'm looking for a quality blade that'll last, been looking at Albion, arms and armor, and darksword armory

I bought a whetstone last year since my fixed knife needs sharpening, but I can't get the angle right. Online videos say feel for the bevel and sharpen from there. I can't seem to find it and I struggle to maintaing that angle when I'm moving . Any tips on how to sharpen a blade?

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>Can be used as machetes
Because that IS a machete.

Honestly just practice. I can get a knife fairly sharp but I'm no expert. Are you using oil on the stone? I know mine recommend oil, the more you do it you just get a feel for it.

How can you have a hard time finding the bevel? Post a pic of your blade.

Just use a sharpmaker
spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=77

>$105 knife sharpener

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I'd just use my langsax at this point.

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is this a 98/05 sawback? It's marked E&F Horster Solingen on the blade, W over 16 is marked on the ricasso, and it definitely looks like there could've been some teeth that got ground off.

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It's really like $70 in stores.
Then again guided sharpeners are just a crutch that'll impede learning how to sharpen properly.

Maciej Kopciuch. Artofswordmaking.com

You're welcome.

hate to break it to ya but normie basic bitches don't usually carry dope knives to stab the person grabbing their ass at the club

Just takes time. I've been doing it for years now and just the other day I had to go back to a 300grit stone and basically reprofile because of a fucked up edge.

You just gotta sharpen a bunch of knives. You'll feel it and hear it. There's a particular sound you get when you're doing it right and you'll feel a smoothness to the stroke when you're on the bevel, without catching or turning your edge away from the stone.

Fuck, one more thing. Don't sharpen your knife in a hurry. If you aren't willing to spend 25minutes doing it don't even start soaking the stone, you'll just do a fuck job to it.

Yes, because the single most important feature of a survival knife is not how formidable it is. The most crucial aspect of a survival knife is that you have it when you need it.

Survival is not about going innawoods with a tracker strapped to your belt, and "surviving". It's about getting out of a jam with whatever you had on you at the time.

I've been posting here for years, and making knives, swords, blades, and ornamental ironwork for about 5 years. Website is new, so no sword pics are up yet, but some knives are up there, and I have made many swords. Site is breeseforge.com

Finally got a UTX-70 after waiting over a year for Microtech to get off their ass and start another run. Also picked up a non-safety Halo 6.

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Arms & Armor and Albion are the best you can do without going into full on custom swordsmith territory.

Valiant Armoury, Kris Cutlery, and Lutel are good for lower-cost models.

I would say so, no unit markings?

>1. If you were gonna have a set of knives, one for every occasion, what would be in your set?
>EDC normal
Large Sebenza (too many options/preferences)
>EDC conceal
Large Sebenza (maybe a sog since super deep carry clips)
>EDC classy
Large Sebenza (any gold class benchmade, custom/semi custom shit)
>innawoods
Large Sebenza, Esee of some flavor depends on task currently my esee 6 (esee izula, esee 4)
>combat
>implying
I'm not getting into a knife fight
>dressing
Like field dressing game? Ngl I still use my sebenza (havalon of some flavor is best)
>car/truck knife
AK bayonet currently with assorted shit knives and a delica. (Same as innawoods and an edc knife)
>what am I missing?
Backup/unoffensive knive maybe, I carry a spyderco bug on my keys if i though someone would care about a knife being present, but theres like 2 people here.
>2. what are quality axe/hatchet for actual innawoods long term use, not showing off on the weekend.
Gransfor bruks, but not much knowledge as I don't particularly have a purpose for one
>3. same question but a saw.
Limited knowledge again, it would heavily depend on the purpose, I have a silky saw for light innawoods camping use.
>4. what some quality but not retardedly priced kitchen knives?
Protip, you don't need a knife set, unless you know a significant amount about cooking and why you will actually benefit using one knife style over another, and you have enough experience to understand the different techniques that each knife will make easier.
So real answer is get a solid chefs knife (8-10") western, santoku, gyuto or whatever your preference is. Aogami super blue steel a best for japanese knives, after that its almost all stylistic preference. Then a paring knife, not as important but same principle.

If your dead set on a cheap set, kai/kershaw.
>inb4 someone points out kai owns kershaw
They still have different sets for some reason.
>5. how many knives do you have on you right now?
0 I'm in bed.
>thanks.

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Consider a convex edge, mouse pad, sand paper, and a little of not being retarded and you'll be able to get your knives shaving sharp.

To add, the shit in parentheses is what I'd put towards a better option. Otherwise the answers are what I currently use. I dont think the sebenza is some godtier knife, they move my member, and I want to use it, so I do. Everywhere I can. Used it to gut a deer over the weekend and my paracord got thoroughly saturated with fat and blood, so I cut it off. Bit of a bummer but I'll remake it.
I guess if I had to pick a 'combat knife' I'd do one of the leatherman muts, not sure if I'd pick the eod or utility in SHTF but I'd do the regular in non SHTF 'combat', if thats an option.

If I had a couple thousand at my disposal for a new edc it would be hard to resist a gold class balisong, or something from Terry Guinn, I'd probably kill for his custom Amber balisong, which I can't find a price for what he sold it for. I'd guess in the 3k range.

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Part 1
>normal
Cold steel recon 1 clip point or cold steel hold out 1 (6” blade)

>conceal
Benchmade 530

>classy
Benchmade 943 or spyderco schempp bowie

>innawoods
Reground Ontario 499 or cold steel shovel

>combat
Reground cold steel trailmaster in SK5 or cold steel shovel

>Car/ truck knife
Cold steel shovel

>multitool
Swisstool spirit or leatherman signal

>favourite folder + fixed + shovel
Benchmade 530, (fixed not found ;_;), cold steel shovel

Part 2
>axe
Grans-fors-meme

Part 3
>saw
Silky f180 for compact saw, big boy 2000 for full size and katana boy for everything else.

Part 4
>kitchen
Victorinox or f. Dick

Part 5
>how many
Around 100 (yes, I know)

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>what u carrying
Cold steel recon 1 (clip point), victorinox Classic Alox (red), Ontario 499 (modified)

Sometimes I carry my code 4 and espada XL. What do you think of the black talon condo-chan?

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So Benchmade is the KAC of the knife world?

Benchmade is the quality but not ungodly expensive mass produced knives that are also babbies first knife collection piece

>Locals like Recon Tanto for that job, so why not?
Also, MPL-50

I like how practical their designs are. All their folding knives work well and don’t have any major problems. They’re my favourite folder company along with cold steel. I have around 25 folders between those two companies because the axis and tri-ad locks are the best locking mechanisms on the market. Benchmade is better for everyday things, cold steel for crazy things.

Benchmade’s fixed blades are pretty good as well. Their sheaths can be weird, but decent.

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I’m digging the bugout

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All these pristine blades... Jow Forums really is full of NEETS

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good lord, what did you sharpen this on? a brick?

A sharpening tool cause sometimes you have to resharpen at work cause of constant use and I don’t have time to whip out a whetstone in a crawl space while cutting insulation off ducts

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This is also after 5 years of mostly daily use, notice how far the bevel has dropped from using a sharpening tool. Not saying it’s the best knife, but it’s survived years of abuse. When the tip breaks off I literally grind a new on my $30 angle grinder. Course why would I buy a $200 knife to abuse?

My work horse for today

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0137 is engraved on the cross piece and that's the only other marking on it. I have a 2nd bayonet that looks just like it, but it's marked Waffenfabrik Mauser A.G. Oberndorf a.N. on the blade with W over 17 over a crown, and 1920 engraved on the hilt. The first picture I posted has to be a sawback, right? The 2nd one looks exactly like it but without that gap on the back of the blade where the teeth would've been. I'm trying to figure out which models of mauser I need to buy if I want to attach these bayonets to something.

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OH MY GOSH ITS YOU AGAIN, i missed you friend.
i love the heck out of my black talon, it waves like an absolute dream once you break it in. exceedingly sharp.

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Hihi

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>leather man signal
absolutely beautiful taste user, please be careful.

also
>tanto C4

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>let me know if you have anymore questions
How does one achieve such high levels of faggotry my good sir?

But for real, though, I've yet to handle any of the CS kitchen knives... However surely if money weren't a thing, a set of custom Bob Kramers would do me well, or at lest some Shuns/Al Mars/Kantesunes on the "budget" side.

Yep, that's a beaut'.

Not bad for an entry level budget knife. CS is good at making those.

As someone who owns a mid-levelish longsword, and a few tacticool shortswords/
swordchetes/ brush swords... Sure the brush swords are a lot more practical, useful, easy to carry, and what I would (do) take with me sometimes while /out... If I had to use a blade for self defense (in an open area) bet your ass I would grab the much larger longsword. I have little HEMA experience, but obviously a 36" blade puts one at a much greater advantage than a 18" blade.

Stay away from Darksword for sure. They make beautiful things, but they are supper sketchy when it comes to actual functionality.

Albion and A&A are fine, also look at Lockwood, and Valiant Armory. I have a Valiant Armory Rhinelander and really like it.

If you are looking for a "budget" option, Hanwei makes SOME good Euro swords (read reviews first), Ronin Katana makes solid functional Euro swords (though not pretty), and Dynasty Forge as well.

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>How does one achieve such high levels of faggotry my good sir?

it's quite simple really, all you do is buy from 3 brands and never try anything else, then proceed to shill 2 of them very hard and the other a little less. kek, but honestly i just figured the CS Kitchen knives would be decent for a recommendation, that..and they are the only brand i know that i buy from that makes ta whole set.

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Practice, but a good way to learn the angles and put them into muscle memory is to cut a block of wood at the right angle (so lets go with 20 degrees for basics) and set it on the heal of the stone as a guide to rest the blade on. And make sure you keep going until you raise a burr, sharpening is not sharpening unless you actually touch the apex.

>sharpen properly
How is a set angle not "proper". It is just a different method to accomplish the same end results. I am a decent free hand sharpener, I have a full set of waterstones and a few diamond lapping plates... But I do most of my work on my Wicked Edge set up just for the super consistency and control, and it's easier to go through a bunch of knives in one session than it is on bench-stones. I use a Sharpmaker for serrated knives. I use a belt sander for larger things like machetes and axes, at lest for the re-profiling.

Kek it's adorable next to the hallo, like a SAK next to an XL Espada.

That method is a little TOO convex at lest for a normal knife, it will roll the edge easily. That trick is better for larger blades like Machetes, even then better to do the bevel with the pad but put the apex on with a stone.

Hey long time no see Knifu-chan. Geze over 100? You and I both... Actually I don't think I currently own over 100, maybe in the 90s including machetes and swords. I HAVE owned over 100 for sure though.

Ehh if you look closely, most Benchmades are actually surprisingly expensive for their materials and quality, even compared with other US knife makers.

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Nah I use my stuff, just I don't abuse it and do maintenance from time to time. If I need to do something that will likely damage a knife beyond normal wear, well it's the wrong tool for the job, and I likely have a better tool on me or close by like my Leatherman or Boxcutter.

I find the fun part about owning $100+ knives is carrying and using them, it's nice to use nice tools.

Fair enough, not many brands offer a full block of good enough knives for under $150. Even a block of Shuns (a sort of entry level enthusiast kitchen knife brad, actually a KAI brand like ZT and Kershaw) will run you $400+.

A block of production Kramers is like $1500... and holly shit a block of Custom Kramers would be like at lest 10k and up. He has made a few single chef knives that cost like 10k.

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>Modern Tacticool shortswords are much easier to use in a real fight than a longsword.
And to what effect when the blade is almost three times as short? If you want a handy sword, get a hanger/cutlass or a briquet-like sabre, at least those had hanguards for a start.

1. EDC normal: Koenig Arius or Olamic Wayfarer 247H PJ

EDC conceal: Will Moon Mk 8

EDC classy: CRK Mnandi in elder burl w/ damascus

Innawoods: ESEE 4

Combat: CRK Pacific or Winkler BRH. SOGs work fine though.

Dressing: Puma White Hunter

Car/Truck: ESEE 6 or Junglas

2. No idea, not living in the woods. Granfors Bruks are the standard recommendation for people looking for BIFL stuff, but that could be hipsters recommending it.

3. Even less of an idea. I use an old craftsman hacksaw for everything I can handle, anything else requires a contractor.

4. Define "retardedly priced"? Zwilling USAs are good. Miyabi Fusion cost more, but are relatively well-priced and are good quality for damascus if you want that look to impress houseguests (they're made by zwilling in Japan). Shuns are retardedly priced, but are the top-of-the-line for mass manufactured knives. You can get lots of fantastic Japanese knives online for good prices, but you're buying individual knives, and have to assemble all the ones you want over time.

5. One. Koenig Arius.

They don't even need the assist. The d2 upgrade from aus8 is a must though.

ok boys my new knife arrived today guess what it iz

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is it really a knife, or perhaps an ice cream bar...

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yey it’s a RAT2. very cool

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Not at all. Very good choice.