Bolt Action General/Precision

Jow Forums I recently finished putting together my AR (20” M16 clone. One day I’ll get the A4 handguards). Bought 100 rounds of 223 for like 25 bucks (run exclusively steel case, fuck you). Now I got to thinking, and do I need to get a 223 bolty, or a 308?

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.308

.308

what am I looking at here

what range do you want to shoot to?
do you want to hunt with it?
what do you want to hunt with it?
how much do you want to spend?

interwar semi auto conversion of an enfield I believe.

get a 6.5 grendel or 6.5 creedmoor bolt action

youtube.com/watch?v=U682yOpNafg

Howell Automatic Enfield conversion

How the fuck do i stop flinching when firing? Also how come I can't keep the crosshair from wobbling around on target unless I use a sandbag right under the center of the rifle?

practice

have someone more experienced see what mistakes you do and fix them

the crosshair will never stop wobbling. you just have to learn to shoot during the split second where it's on target

Is shooting left and slightly low a common beginner mistake?
Is it normal to be shooting the same distance left no matter how much I drift the sights to the right?

with a rifle?

make sure the gun is zeroed and that it actually holds that zero. If it doesnt, you need to get a new scope and/or mounts

if it holds zero, shoot first with support. Bipods, sandbag, whatever. Find a comfortable position and dont change it between shots. Start with 22 or something if you're recoil shy. Dont hold the gun too tight.

>$25
>100 rounds
>steel

For what purpose? You can get brass at that price.

With a handgun yes, with a rifle no.

As other user said, ensure the gun is zeroed and holding zero, if scoped ensure your adjustment dials are fully tight and are actually adjusting, ensure the mounts are tight to the rifle, and tight to the scope.

Consider having someone that you are sure can put up a good group put a few rounds through it, if they can't it could be a sight/scope issue or mounting issue.
Also be sure that you dont have anything pressing on the barrel, it can change point of impact a fairly large amount.

Are you flinching? What caliber and rifle? What distance? What sights/scope?

Here is my latest precision build, my M40A1 build.

Remington 700 Receiver which was clip slotted
Obermeyer 308 Winchester chamber
PTG fitted bolt
Tombstone safety
1-12” McLennan barrel
Tubb recoil lug
Unertl/USMC one piece lugged scope mount with MEU Simrad mount
Williams one piece M70 steel floor plate
McMillan HTG stock bedded with aluminum contoured pillars and Devcon steel epoxy
US Optics MST-100 USMC Sniper Scope

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>1-12"
Why? Won't stabilize any of the good long range bullets

How so? The M40A1 all the way through to the M40A5 have the same twist rate, same barrel and I don't see the Marines having any problems with shooting long ranges using the M118LR ammunition to over 1000 yards. Mine handles the 175 SMK like a dream.

>the military uses it so its good!
Don't ever think that, marines use full length rifles for kicking in doors, can it work? Sure, but that's because they dont get a choice, not because its the best option.
Its not a sure shot or anything but 175s can destabilize at longer ranges with the slower twist, thats why competition shooters that use 308 are using 10T-11.25T. Plus then the super heavies (180+) are possible for minimum wind drift and drop. 10T is a bit overkill though unless your shooting 200gr+.

I never said that the 1:12 twist is the best because the military uses it. I simply said they don't have any problems with it. You are correct that the 1:11.25 is the best for 308 long range. That isn't the twist rate found on an M40A1 and wanted to keep this build as real as possible. This rifle keeps 1/2 MOA out to the 600 yard mark so far with the 175 SMK. Haven't had the chance to get this rifle out past that yet.

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Yeah right after I sent my 2nd reply I realized it was more about it being a beautiful clone that shoots well than the absolute best precision gun out there. Half moa at 600 is impressive.

Normally I just shoot my Tikka in 6.5 Mememoor if I wanted better long distance.

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Uh. Wrong. Did you have a stroke when you were younger?

No Harris, leafboi?

You mean having a rest makes the rifle stop wobbling? That's normal.
You're supposed to use a bipod AND a rear sandbag on the buttstock to keep steady. It effectively makes the rifle a tripod

Bump

It's a basic AR15 with flip up MBUS, not really "precision" shooting but I figured learning to shoot accurately in general counted for the thread, even if it was close with irons. I'm only shooting with elbows on the table, no full support or rest.
What kind of distances should I be shooting at if I'm still learning my way around a rifle? I do have a .22 if it's a big help to switch back to that. I've mostly shot pistol before so I'm not new to shooting in general.

Can someone point me in the right direction or have any guides about building a Remington 700 chambered in 338lm. There are some police versions out there but really I want to buy my own barrel and action yet I can't find any online, nor do I really know which specs I should look out for for a quality long lasting barrel.

This isn’t COD you nigger.

SeeAndFor the record, I just wanna say I thought of this concept before I knew it was a thing.
>mfw I might be a reincarnation of John Browning but I’m 100 years too late

I want a full powered rifle cartridge that’s very plentiful, gonna be used for practically forever, and can take on about anything, but also be loaded light for fun. (Probably overthinking it, but that’s why I’m looking at .308. It’s plentiful, and prices are dirt cheap.)
Maybe it’s just location, cause my local Academy Sports always has steel case the cheapest. Plus I don’t reload as of right now, so it’s good enough for me.
Very sexy raifu user.

>How the fuck do i stop flinching when firing?
Practice (try a 22 or something with low to no recoil) and clear your mind. Just focus on the sights and target and stop overthinking things

Ammoseek.com nigga
Buy more ammo before a new gun, atleast 1k surplus. Steel is cheapest you can get steel for like 16cpr + shipping.

Try shooting without worrying about sight picture, put a rifle target within 25 yards or handgun within 5 yards, your going to hit it, think less about sights and more about pull.

youtu.be/li0rGtXh23I
Doesnt matter if your sight picture is perfect when you pull if you move your barrel 20 degrees during your pull.

Also consider a 22lr/airgun to start, it actually doesn't matter which. Trigger time is trigger time. Airguns can be tons of fun and are cheap to shoot.

Still, what caliber sensei?

I lied a little.

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50 m or further with a rifle.

do you have a scope on your ar? yes, definitely shoot your 22(bolt gun probably?) too, focus on the pull and less on hitting exactly where you want at first

if you're skinnier guy you'll find elbows and mag support only might still be rather unstable. Consider improving support

when shooting a group use the same position and mag support for every shot to improve consistency. When using mag support, can also try to lean the gun very slightly to left or right in case the mag is slightly loose

No scope for the AR, just flip up sights, and the 22 is a semi auto with just open sights.

Also as a different user, practice dry firing.
Even better, put a close target up and when loading your mag throw in some empty cases, you'll both see your flinches and hopefully only occasionally practice clearing jams.

Nothing wrong with a precision rifle in .223, you can wring a shitload out of the cartridge and it's overall cheaper than .308.

Even with a 1:9 you can use 69-grain SMKs, which will get you to 600 pretty well (or further). Obviously a 1:8 or 1:7 will stabilize 77-gr SMKs and be a bit better.

The question becomes what ranges you have access to and what else you would like the rifle to do. I have a 700P LTR in .223 and it's an awesome target rifle out to middle distances, but it'd be suboptimal for durr huntin'.