/msg/ - Milsurp General - Show Me The Stamps!

That's not too bad, a tad towards the higher end of normal

38

holy crap, I remember this pic from what feels like many years ago

>38
A re-built one or a K.Kale-made new production? IMO it's too much UNLESS it has the matching bolt, which is rare among Turkish Mausers.

July 2013, so barely 5.

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I passed up a Union shotgun because it was missing parts, if its intact it sounds pretty awesome,

Give it a THOROUGH cleaning, if it still feels like trash then its an occasional range-trip gun and conversation piece

Since the theme is stamps...

IDF acceptance and property stamps on a pre-1963 Hi-Power

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Belgian proofs on slide

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>July 2013, so barely 5.
That would explain it, I got my kar98k just a couple months before that in march 2013 and chatted with you in a thread.

Barrel markings on "trade pattern" Martini
(receiver is blank)

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fresh stamps, purchased yesterday
Type38 school rifle

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How about this one?

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New baguette carbine

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Thats a crest, not a stamp

Also, it might have been engraved as opposed to physically stamped, like pic related

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Ooh la la! Thats an M35, ne?

This is from my Dad's WWII bringback, a M1874 Gras converted to .22 and used in a marksmanship club in the Intrerwar period

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stamps?

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Yes it’s an R35 carbine. Barrel is SACM 1937.

Nice. How dear was it?

Balle N, or 7.5 French?

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R35s are 8mm Lebel. The M27 is 7.5 French

Are those aftermarket bent mosin bolts any good?

Did you not check the catalog?

Have any of you guys ever tried to sand rust pits out? I got this fucking CZ70 that was caked in rust and im gunna reblue it but I want to get rid of these pits. I spent hours on my work bench sanding at this thing I got some of them out but some are really deep should I cut my loses or should I try a dremel or something?

Asking a question from the last thread. Am I really going to have to pay this much for a Yugo Capture K98k or was it just rookie autism?

Stampings?

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The last one just died, where the hell have you been?!

Traded a Sig P320 for this Romanian SKS

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Paid $600 for it if that’s what you’re asking. Other side is worn to fuck, possible bubba tried sanding it or something, just looks like wear to me because most of the phosphate finish is still on there. Pic makes it look worse than it is. All number match, though, and no import mark, so it was probably someone’s WWII bring back.

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Haven’t been on here in ages. How are you degenerates doing?

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Because I had the image handy.

The TC stamping on the back of his Helwan mag indicates its from an Egyptian military contract

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Looks like some yabbo tried to clear away the parkerizing to find the original markings. $600 in that condition is not bad at all

Is there any possible way to thread a nugget barrel?

Put it up your bum bum

Depends how much you value having it now. If you look hard you can find Romanian or Yugo 98ks for around 400.

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While not stampings, it aint often you see machine-turning on a milsurp.

This is an Astra 900 that was made to look like a Broomhandle Mauser since that is what the Chinese liked buying. Someone "refurbished" this one with a reline to 9x19 and reblue. I removed the bluing from the inside of the sideplate to show Astra's awesome engine-turning

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I don't need it right this instant but I thought that they both went for more than they should have, especially the first auction. It's just a waiting game now for me.

Whelp, I finally pulled the trigger.

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You better build it full auto

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Nice try, dog killer.

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How much should I be expecting to pay for an SKS or Mosin Nagant?

I want a 7.62x54 rifle and wanna put a scope on it for target shooting

I really need to retake these pics geez louise

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did they deface the mum because it was being used as a training rifle or is that a postwar thing

Thinking about a P17. seen lost of Eddystones around here at about $700-$750. Y/N? wheres a good baseline to start with em?

A good baseline is carefully inspect the area where the receiver meets the barrel on any rebarreled rifle. Oftentimes, these were overtorqued and developed cracks. Beyond that, there aren't any issues to really look for.

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rifles that have left the military's possession would have the mum stamped over. The extra kanji below the mum and the 00 before the serial number means it was used as a school training rifle. for example my type 30 is also a school rifle but has a double circle over the mum

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my m48 has a worn down safety lever to where I need to bash it on a rock to get it back into the open/safe positions because it gets stuck in fire.
What can I do to fix it?

Having google be a bitch and Jow Forums threads being a BITCH, that's where I been... Also scored 100 rounds of MEN German made .303 surp today. Arriving on Friday.

lmao

Probably just get the thing replaced, honestly.

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Also, dumb question for an american reloader here... But is there an 'easy' way to reload berdan primers with having to dig into getting import shit?

Without

I'm worried about buying off ebay in the event I get another lemon

Also, figured out that where the looseness on my mag is. Up in the front fitting. Shimming the front gap would stop it, and be cheaper than buying a new mag, which I might have to anyways. I'm having trouble with rounds jumping out of the mag. Need to find some pliers and some snap caps or take a pair when I go to the range later this month and adjust the back right feed lip. As it tends to happen on a right fed round. Like number nine.

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If someone's charging you a fuck ton for it, it's not worth buying from them anyways for such a part. If you have a local gunsmith, you can probably source a cheap part through them.

depends on condition and model. if its a really really nice M38 then id say thats on the upper end but still fair.

for comparison, a generic used 50% bluing condition M38 wont even sell at $200. i know because ive been trying for the last year

Picked up a Public Security Type 56 SKS. Only 3,000 or so made it to the US before the ban. The police in China used this and they have an engraving on the right side of the receiver.

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What ammo brand do you shoot out of your Swedish Mauser? Was under the impression that S&B is better but PPU is more expensive for some reason.

No. I guess the water method would be the easiest but... it's still tedious and slow.
S&B is hotter. Handloads are the way to go though.

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KYS bubba

OH FUCK DUDE I DIDNT KNOW ANYONE ELSE HAD ONE OF THESE.

I bought one for $75 and it's honestly quite fun. I did a good amount of digging through reference books and forums and here's what I could come up with.

Right around the time trap shooting became popular in America, the most popular manufacturers were all Europeans. The guy who started Union wanted an American alternative so he set up shop in the hardware department of the Sears in Toledo. The VAST majority of his work was in double barrels, but the Model 24 (what we have) is his forray into pump actions. He produced 3 models with different types of steel in the barrel (Fluid, Damascus, etc) and sold them for between $18-22. They only made about 1400 of these shotguns (mine is about in the middle of production). There isn't a whole lot of information out there, and even the sports shotgun reference book from the 40's I read said they couldn't find out much about it. They were indeed bought out by Ithica in 1913 because their company was a total flop by that point.

So far, I have been unable to completely take the damn thing apart. The finish on mine is almost completely gone, and I had to spend a few hours cleaning it up meticulously. One thing to note is that if you have a Damascus barrel, it is NOT SAFE to shoot modern 2 3/4 inch smokeless shells out of it.
A: Damascus doesn't handle the pressure as well
B: the chamber is only 2 1/2 inches anyways

Question for you: How do you take it apart?

Pic related is mine

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Oh, also. The one you have is indicative of the earlier serial number guns. Everuthing after about 600ish has an exposed screw head on the back (reference my pic), but they were all still called the Model 24.

There was also apparently a Mode 25, but there's literally NO information about it that exists. Trust me, I've checked.

More pics

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Considering I'm just thinking about the hundred rounds of .303 I've got, I've just gotta know if there's anything else 'special' I need then other than the berdan primer itself. Because I could just use a single loader. Not like I'm gonna be firing them all off and then doing it. Or even if it happens before getting a hand load set, it's not like I don't have the type. Basically, is it a stupid pursuit or just let the good surplus cases lie?

One or both of you guys should get Ian on the Horn.

Mother fucker... Time, not type. But apparently I can't type.

Definitely do It at the range. Much easier than having 10 snap caps. It should only take you a few minutes

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I've considered it MANY times, but he's said before he wouldn't make special trips for just one gun, and seeing as this is literally a budget shotgun from the 1900's, idk if he'll consider it worth the while. I'll probably shoot him an email at some point and let him know

How far away from Arizona are you?

Well, I don't need ten snap caps, a five pack would be fine.. Though for some really strange reason the easiest to find snap caps for .303 (deactived or anodized) is two or three packs. But you're right, I could take a minute at the bench, load up, unload, adjust, and unload again.

It's your time chief, but I wouldn't bother. Either convert them to boxer or just buy new brass would be my recommendation.

Pretty much the exact opposite side of the country.

Ah... Well then, yeah I could see that being a problem unless he's already in the area.

I don't have the tools or even DIY hardware know how to do it safely. Guess if I want proper mil spec rims I'll have to try and find some greek stuff that might be roaming about the country side.

>Guess if I want proper mil spec rims
You mean with a bevel or something?

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Here's a stamp for ya

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I would recommend 10. Feeding will be different for the first round on a fully compressed spring.

Yeah, the slight bevel that the rims have to prevent proper rim jam, that no commercial manufacturer that I'm aware of provides.

This is fair, though at least in the case of round number 'nine' popping up. I can have five in and it still does it, slipping rounds from the mag by hand or doing the half travel unloading in the rifle proper.

gave me a semi

God bless Cabela's not knowing what they had on the rack.

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>a generic used 50% bluing condition M38 wont even sell at $200. i know because ive been trying for the last year
if my kraut bayonets will fit that thing, I'd be all over it

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Turks used their own and a lot were converted to 8mm from their 7mm stock.

I generally see 250-275. So for really good condition it's not bad as far as my experience goes.