I finally got through my first can of Remoil that I purchased shortly after purchasing my first gun about 10 years ago...

Mobil1 for protecting
WD40 True Multipurpose Grease for lubricating
Ed’s Red for cleaning
$20 worth is a lifetime supply

>first gun
>10 years ago
>first can
Did you go shooting like twice or never even clean your fucking gun? I go through cans like they're candy. Also why the fuck would you every use anything auto related on your guns. Like said most auto fluids have all kinds of additives in them. Just use Rem Oil or some offbrand if you're afraid of being some corporate cuck.

I formed an opinion, I want something different so I'm here for suggestions. Fucking reading comprehension...

Oil is for oiling, I want something that is a cleaner as well.

Is this solely based on negative feedback online? Or is there some reason it's not working for you? I really think this lubrication issue is overblown. I've used various different gun oils, and they all seem to work "okay."
That said, I've heard Froglube solidifies in cold temperature and gums up the action, so if you were looking for one to avoid, that might be it.

No I don't clean my guns too often, only when necessary. And I never said anything about motor oil...

Look up "Ed's Red", it's some seriously good stuff you can make yourself for cheap, heard about it first on Jow Forums too, tried it for myself, won't be touching any commercial overpriced products again. I know it sounds like a meme and these usually are but this is an exception

frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

>ballistol
Just looked this up, sounds like good shit. I hate hoppes and rem oil they fucking stink and its a pain in the ass and makes me loathe to clean my guns as a result. Definitely going to check this out.

I've never had an issue with any gun using Breakfree CLP. Buy it from your local Wallyworld, gunstore, or whatever place you buy your gun shit from for like 9 bucks and forget about it.

If smell is a concern, look up Weapon Shield. It smells like cinnamon candy.

Ballistol for most stuff, Slip 2k for internal parts. If you're lubricating something old with wood furniture then Remoil is actually a good option.

B A L L I S T O L

based. this is actually a good solvent, but doesn't lube or protect.

What about lithium grease or whatever they use for ball bearings? If you smear it thinly it should work even better than just thin oil right?

I used to use remoil, but I switched to ballistol. It's non toxic and I also use it for leather and such, good stuff. It's what I would recommend

But how does it taste?

Lithium is ok but you really want calcium sulfonate Grease for compatibility with most chemicals and superior protection and resilience

Grease works, but in firearms it is best used on surfaces that slide against each other, like rails or levers. Parts that pivot (like the barrel pivot pin) should be oiled. Also ofc parkerization needs a tiny bit of oil to function. Just rub it in.

Attached: bestgrease.jpg (1125x2000, 327K)

buy literally anything you faggot

you're not going to get the "this is absolute best product that will impress people on Jow Forums when you post about it" answer that you're looking for

Lad......

Attached: 26B48A86-12C7-4F62-AF17-4B18C6AFEADB.jpg (4032x3024, 1.73M)

mate. I put that stuff on the four rails of the BCG. went through 200 rounds this weekend without a failure. it gets everywhere but doesn't seem to cause a problem really.

>not just getting a superior Nickel boron BCG
wew

Attached: file.png (347x200, 59K)

I've thought about weapon shield. Apparently it contains chlorine which damages metal, but the inventor claims he uses long chain molecules or something so it doesn't actually damage the metal . I'd rather not take a chance, people can be deceptive. To further my lack of trust, his falex wear tests on youtube are completely fraud. Those machines can be manipulated by the user to yield certain results and it was clear he was deceitfully making the machine work better for his product. Still, prob a good oil.

like chai tea

Is this stuff actually any good? I need a grease for my straight pulls.

>lazily goyim paying the nickel jew instead of performing proper maintenance and lubrication
Back to /arg/, fag

I've heard a lot of hate for WD-40 is the specialist shit better? Also do you gents spray on a rag and wipe your internals or just give it a once over spray?

Different user. I've never tried nickel Boron, but I just got a nitrided bcg and I find it superior to phosphate so far. The nitride is just smooth and pleasent to hold, not grainy like phosphate so easy cleaning. Also, the added benefit of not being a coating/plating.

>lazy goyim paying the grease jews instead of buying superior parts
Back to , fag

Enjoy your meme.

Attached: good_enough.jpg (2000x1125, 385K)

It ain’t bad, my dude
That’s for sure

Get alg go juice grease. It's a light grease, almost gel. Made specifically for firearm.

What's going on in this image? Why is it so pitted?

WD40 spray =/= WD40 Grease
The True Multipurpose is a calcium sulfonate complex grease which if the fuggin best by a lot. It normally was almost impossible to find retail untill they released it.

I don't see anything wrong with it except it probably needs to be wiped. Looks like from out of my rifle inna Army. The rails are in good condition, the balance of the BCG surface doesn't matter.

Got a cleaning related question. Does anyone else have a problem with cleaning your gun, wrong everything down dry, then a day or so later there is cleaning solvent or oil lightly running down your gun? Not dripping or anything but like it slowly creeped out even though you wiped your gun dry? This happens to me no matter what solvent I use and it drives me nuts.

Metal has pores my dude

what gun?

Parkerized steel will take in a little bit of oil, and bare metal even less. Anodizing like on an AR upper or lower will take nothing.

>lets strangers form his opinions
Op replies with,
>Fucking reading comprehension...
Although he said,
>I'm in the market for something better than remoil after seeing some negative feedback about it over these past 10 years.

this was a reply to,

CLP

I've used this for 15 years or so. No rust or cycling problems.

Attached: Eezox.jpg (500x500, 14K)

USED motor oil is quite cancer causing. Clean unused motor oil is supposedly fine. You're right about the detergents, but they are not harmful.

Ballistol nigga

Nice fuddlore, unless you made your gun out of oillite bronze.

it does though. take a cast iron transmission case, or a shifter that's been sitting in motor oil for years. keep a blow torch on it. it will weep oil.

Does it with my Mossberg 500A my WASR(I painted over the park with enamel) my 10/22, etc.

You can get detergent free motor oil if it’s a big deal.

Attached: F8CB9EAA-6400-43AA-A7D0-134852A6D0A2.jpg (800x450, 41K)

>Just looked this up, sounds like good shit.
It isn't. It's an overpriced cleaner. Ballistol should not be left on guns for long term storage. I wouldn't leave it on guns for even few months.

>and detergents which do nothing for guns.

>additives designed to keep dirt in suspension and not sticking to parts doesn't do anything.

hurr durrr.

You're fucking retarded
ballistol.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/MSDS_TECH_BIO.pdf

Theres nothing the least bit corrosive in there, the detergents such as potassium oleate are there to stop chemical corrosion

There is nothing toxic in motor oil. Its literally 1-decene polymer and paraffin wax with some c18-c50 solvent

Which corner of your ass did you pull that out of?
>it's a cleaner
come on now.

OP, go get a can of Break-Free CLP, G96 Gun Treatment, or Ballistol. Any of those 3 are relatively easy to find in gun shops, and all will treat you well, while being miles better than rem oil. If you're dead set on using RemOil, at least go buy Rem Oil Pro3, which is pretty much re-branded CLP.

Motor oil makes an OK lube, shitty cleaner, and mediocre rust preventative. People who shoot a lot like it simply due to cost. There's tons of non-gun products that work well on guns; Super Lube Aerosol and CorrosionX come to mind. If you're ok with moving to a two step process, Hoppes Elite and MPro7 make some pretty great non-toxic cleaners and a decent line of oils.

It tastes nothing like cinnamon. Found this out by accident.

So does this stuff, it smells like either stinky feet or licorice depending on who you're talking with. That said it does work, and work well.

Half true, it contains some type of long chain chlorinated compound yes, but it's been over-buffered with calcium sulfonate so it cancels out any corrosion effect. Corrosion is less of a worry here since it's an open system, a car engine may/may not have issues depending on design and how long the oil is in there (I actually like stuff like Prolong in car engines- they actually work, albeit with downsides like you said). tldr it's roughly on par with any other oil for corrosion resistance.

It's not Ph neutral you retard. And look at some of the long term tests of Ballistol... it causes streaks and surface oxidation/corrosion.

another idiot who fell for the marketing BS.

it doesn't have to be pH neutral, pH is only for things in an aqueous solution. They even note that in the SDS. Only when the fucking oil is emulsified will it throw a pH and even still its 50g oil in 1000g of water which is dilute as fuck to make an emulsion with. None of these chemicals have a pKa low enough to corrode metals typically seen in guns.

You are fucking retarded, its not corrosive at all

Name a single corrosive chemical on the ingredients list:

Mineral Oil
Potassium Oleate
Ammonium Oleate
Oleic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Amyl Alcohol
Isobutyl Alcohol
Benzyl Acetate
Anethole
Isohexane (aerosol only)

t. didn't pass general chemistry 1 in highschool

Hell, water isn't even pH neutral all the time, it fluctuates hardcore with temperature and what ions are solvated inside it. A pH isn't what makes something corrosive you fucking moron. Heres a good example, Coka-Cola will have a pH of 1-2 but it isn't very corrosive at all, same thing with a 5% solution of Acetic Acid (vinegar) will throw a ph of 2.4 but its not corrosive at all.

>ballistol.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/MSDS_TECH_BIO.pdf
>Ballistol as a Corrosion Inhibitor
Most corrosion inhibiting lubricants can only protect against normal oxidation. They do so by covering up the surface,
which they are supposed to protect, and prevent contact with water and air. Due t
o its alkalinity Ballistol can also protect
against galvanic corrosion, acidic corrosion and salt water corrosion. Ballistol contains oxygen binders. They make the
oxygen, contained in water or air, unavailable for oxidation. Due to its low surface tension
, Ballistol is capable of
creeping into the smallest openings even against gravity. Accordingly, Ballistol provides not only passive but also active
protection against corrosion. However, Ballistol is not a permanent coating or paint. Its protective effect
will be the
stronger the more often it is re
-
applied.

BTFO
T
F
O

look at this brainlet.

Attached: Average Aerican circa 2040.jpg (612x428, 97K)

wow you just blow in from stupid town?

Attached: dixie cup.jpg (640x627, 55K)

I don't believe in oil. It just gums up everything especially if you run suppressed.

I try to run things as dry as possible and use only the teeniest amount of grease or oil to prevent wear. I have dry teflon spray which keeps switches and safeties etc operating smoothly. It comes in a really volatile solvent that makes its way and creeps into everything but dries off almost instantly leaving a slick white haze over everything. I spray it into mags too, works well.

Attached: b0d4adb7-a0f4-43d6-9784-dd0d8c6e7b1c_1.a72bce38b56701ad54b88d7009b0098f.jpg (2000x2000, 155K)

performancelubricantsusa.com/files/DuPont Non-Stick Dry Film Lubricant Aerosol_US GHS SDS_English_15_April 2015.pdf

I mean its just PTFE dissolved in a whole bunch of different solvents. This stuff is also oddly toxic

Not sure how this is supposed to be harmful unless if you empty the can into your clothes and light yourself on fire before it all evaporates away.

Well it says the toxicity comes from breathing it in. It also says that the toxicity comes from the isopropanol. Since it's a aerosol it probably is more toxic because of that. Usually isopropanol is a liquid and the fumes are largely harmless because it's not so stupidly volatile it could clear a room

Isopropanol is a liquid...in a pressurized container. At standard atmosphere it boils away into nothingness almost instantly. You’re probably thinking of isopropyl alcohol.

Wait, I have it wrong. Isopropanol is actually isopropyl alcohol.

What the fuck am I thinking of? It's some sort of liquid that boils away instantly.

It's not the best at cleaning or protection but works "good enough" unless you spray your guns with salt water all day.
I use
- Klever Ballistol Multipurpose Oil on wood, leather and blued surfaces as well as shoes, dry skin, knife conservation and have used it successfully as deodorant
- Klever Gunex 2000 for protection on my Glock and AR and for lubing the AR
-Klever Robla Solo Mil as bore solvent

Very happy with their products, always available everywhere and somewhat inexpensive

I use Rem Oil as a general cleaner and for putting a protective coating on my guns. I use Hoppes 9 for bores. I use Kroll Oil for lubrication and for the occasion bit of rust pops up (seriously, Kroll and a copper-bristled skiing brush will BTFO any corrosion you get), but I only use a little bit since the stuff goes a long way and smells of Simple Green

For weapons requiring grease, I use AeroShell since we get it by the truckload.

don't use it in your barrels either as it turns into acid at barrel temps.

Is ballistol all I need for gun care/cleaning in terms of lube? I'm getting my first handgun in december and putting together a buy list

CLP is the basic bitch choice for that task. Personally i use CLP for general cleaning and either FP-10 or mineral oil for lube. Works fine IME.

What kind of gun?
The advantages of ballistol are that it's completely safe, you could eat it and it will help with stomach cramps or constipation.
Also that it's good for leather and wood.
Downsides are it doesn't clean as good as a solvent, doesn't protect as good as mineral based gun oils, and can gum up in extreme negative temperatures.

Things where ballistol shines:
-guns with wood and blued finish
-black powder
-safety
-smell
-100s of non-gun related uses (look it up online)

Buy a mineral based gun oil instead if your guns are polymer and stainless/parkerized.
Also for rifle cleaning you'll want a copper solvent if some kind.

No dude. Isopropanol is a liquid at room temp and is moderately volatile. You have some in your medicine cabinet called "rubbing alcohol"

Where the fuck do you guys get this shit. What acid is produced from Teflon?

Oh fuck its this dude again. The ultimate I need to use the most hipster concoctions or only true american what my grandad used guy.

What exactly are you using "eds red" for? Its only decent purpose is as a last ditch attempt at getting some lubricant into rusted as fuck bolts and even then heavy taps or heat is 100x better. ATF and paint thinner isn't magically better than any other gun cleaner which is also just kerosene.

cz 75 sp01