80% FAIL

with all that expense you could have just bought a box of lowers

Two posts for removing chips. Brass for both of you.

Picture of set up.

Attached: 98568586-4548-4ACD-A5E5-CB202083956A.jpg (4032x3024, 1.95M)

Check the drill press for orbiting. You may be pushing the bits too hard-- feather them in and out and go easy. Try drilling smaller diameter pilot holes centered where the bigger bit bites, and fill the pilot holes with cutting fluid-- any petroleum-based oil will work in a pinch.

Lmao

So you have drill bits broken off in that lower?
Time to buy a new lower, kiddo.
And buy some fucking HSS drill bits for the next lower.

Attached: 1526600087549.jpg (640x404, 35K)

He's not doing bulk material removal. It's a 1/8th hole. He should be able to drill it without needing to worry about debris buildup.

My guess is you're using your Retard strength to smash the bit into the material.

Listen to the drill bit, you should be able to feel it's progress through the material.

Be sure to pull it out multiple times during the drill to remove debris from the bit else it'll bind up and snap off.

T. Used a 50$ press to finish pic related

Attached: 1230181227.jpg (4160x2336, 2.51M)

OP here.
That’s what I was thinking. The drill press is old, 1978. It is most likely the culprit

Not OP but what do if I can't easily adjust the RPM on my drill press? I would have to open the top and adjust the belts to change the speed.

Attached: AC6AA210-A227-4263-91E3-DA601BCB0A51.jpg (677x1024, 58K)

That’s literally how drillpresses are.
Loosen tension, move belt, re-tension

>That’s what I was thinking. The drill press is old, 1978. It is most likely the culprit
The older the better, you dumb fuck.
Problem is between you ears.

Oh. So like get the hole started and then adjust it and finish the hole? I don't have an 80% lower or any intentions of getting one I'm just curious. I bought the drill press for cheap and haven't started looking in to how to use it.

Just go slow.

If you had better things to do with your time, you wouldn't be making your own lower.

I'm not OP. I haven't even turned my press on yet, I have plenty of patience.

1/8 hole in aluminum is EZPZ. Set to 1000 RPM, don't slam the bit down with retard strength, go slow. Drill down about 1/8" inch at a time then come back up to clear chips.

If you broke a bit off in the metal then you're fucked. You will never get the broken bit out with noob skills, and you will not be able to drill through it.

Watch videos on YT if you don't know how to operate a drill press.

>Low RPM
>Aluminum
>1/8

Confirmed boomer machinist.

SPEED THOSE FUCKERS UP AND DON'T PECK. Use a firm consistent pressure,

You should be close to 2k RPM @ 80SFM which is extreme light speeds for aluminum.

You are exceeding feed per tooth and the chip load is stressing the point geometry.

Turn off caveman strength, this is not wood splitting

Size does not matter
Chips still need to be cleared if they clog the flutes of the bit.

on a hole that deep you should absolutely worry about debris buildup.

OP needs to peck more and clean his chips like every 1/8th inch

OP didn't include his RPM so I would suggest checking that, a 1/8 inch hole in 7075t6 should be pretty fast, like 2100 or faster.

Keep it lubed and make sure your drill-press's base is square and clamped so it doesn't walk off.

99% of the time older is better when it comes to tools.

Shit sold at sears and k-mart in the 70s have a significantly higher build quality compared to any similarly priced modern choice.

You can use kerosene for aluminum. It's a light oil which prevents chip adhesion.
Also you can get real synthetic cutting fluid on amazon.
amazon.com/gp/product/B00R9LXVKY
There are also aluminum-specific cutting fluids.
amazon.com/Pint-9-Alum-Cutting-Fluid/dp/B0000DD2EY
amazon.com/Tap-Magic-20016A-Aluminum-Yellow/dp/B00065VEUO

Also, don't use regular oils like motor oil or hydraulic oil. Lubricating oils have none of the extreme pressure additives you need to actually make a difference in cutting.

drill bits turn clockwise

Attached: 1024px-Clockwise.svg.png (1024x1024, 43K)

There may be several issues.

1 those shitty drill bits
With heat, the titanium coating could be melting and adhering to the aluminum causing chips clog the flutes and the bit to stick to the aluminum.

Find a non coated carbide drill bit, the 135 degree point angle is good so keep that.

Most carbide bits will have polished flutes to allow chips to clear.

Keep heat low by pecking as another user suggests.

Oh fuck thanks user I didn't realize it was lefthand lol

Attached: 1557098279865.gif (416x307, 2.58M)

Based on your question, you're out of your depth.

Best advice I can offer, is to take it to a competent machine shop.

If you handle yourself properly, a good machinist will be happy to answer your question, give you some tips and advice, and maybe even solve your problem at a reduced shop rate.

Much brass for the advice, anons. Never inspected the RPM of the drill press. Going to look into that, the whole thing probably needs some adjusting.

Thanks for the links to cutting fluid.

Scrapping this 80. Don't even want to think the process of trying to get those bits out as things progress.

Definitely out of my depth, but willing to heed warnings, listen to advice, get proper equipment, and follow through.

Can’t you just cut those bits out
Drill holes around them

Yeah tell the no tools to crank it to 11 and slam it home at mach 5. You tell beginners beginning tips so they don't fuck it up. If it takes them an extra 2 minutes to clear the metal who cares as long as they don't break a hundred bits along the way.

hah what is this from?

Possibly. The area in questions gets drilled out altogether. Drill close enough and file or pull them out as needed?

Never made one of these before whats a good drill press? Is a XY vise good for this kind of work?

What's the RPM I should be aiming for in this application?

This. You cant drill a drill bit. And if you broke a drill bit in aluminum, you probably cant do much of anything constructive

Does it turn the bit? Then it isnt the problem

>Never made one of these before whats a good drill press?
A good drill press costs more than a car, and weighs about as much as one.
You'll be using a crappy drill press, which is perfectly OK for this job.
X-Y table? Good to have since it makes your setup more rigid and easier to line up each hole, but not essential. You DO want a vise.

>>Carbide bits
Carbide bits are fine if you know what you're doing and you have a very rigid setup. If you don't have both of those things then they are counterproductive. Tungsten carbide is very brittle, so if there's any wobble whatsoever then you just broke the bit and probably ruined the lower in the process. It's also overkill. Drilling in hardended steel requires carbide tooling. Drilling in 7075 does not. Plain 'ol high speed steel is a much better choice because it won't shatter on you. Suggesting carbide tooling to a noob is like putting someone who's never driven before behind the wheel of an F1 car.

t. Machinist

Start half, oil, increase to max one it starts eating. It's aluminum so its going to cut smooth as silk. Once you learn the feel for it (two or three times) and understand your drill then leave it wide open and slowly start drilling your holes. Patience is a virtue.

Your flutes are probably getting clogged or metal is building up on the tip of the drill causing heat and tool failure, have the drill press going at a decent speed (1500-2000 RPM), use a constant but light pressure on the quill, what you're going for is a chip that comes out long and stringy, you also want to peck periodically to make sure that any chips that don't get carried out come out of the hole, if you're getting dust something in your setup is wrong, it could be a bad drill grind or incorrect pressure

You could also try using WD-40 or Kerosene as a lubricant it helps to prevent buildup when cutting aluminum with HSS.

Textbook perfect is about 2000 rpm. Most homeowner drill presses won't go that fast, so shoot for around 1000 or so.

Simple rule of thumb: small holes, high speed. Large holes, low speed.

Cheers user

Nah man you just set it to different speeds for whatever you're drilling. Like fast for wood, less fast for aluminum, less fast for brass, less fast for steel. You dont need variable speeds for 1 hole. Just change pressure. Practice on a wooden 2x4. Pull it really fast to start the hole and see what happens. Then pull it really slow, watch what happens. Then find a good amount of pressure to start and increase to cut faster. When you get clean holes in the 2x4, move to metals.

If you are breaking drill bits: Too much downforce (Retard strength) dont do that.
Too much heat (Don't do that. See above. add oil.)
IMPROPER DRILL RPM: Fix that shit. You should probably be upwards of 2000 RPM spindle speed for a 1/8 drill in aluminum. Change the fucking pulley grooves your belts are in, there should be a charge inside the access cover detailing what arrangement gets you in the ballpark.

just use polish finish or black oxide finish drill bit that usually come with the kit

Probably

The alum trick might work on the cobalt bits, but probably not on the titanium one

>dad
more like rough loving uncle

why not use a milling bit in a dp vice?

>Turn off caveman strength, this is not wood splitting
This is good advice for a lot of tool work, machining, carpentry, what ever. Don't do the work, let the tool do the work. You don't push a handsaw into the wood while you rock it back and forth, you rock it back and forth and let the saw do the cutting. It's the same story for drilling out material. Don't over apply downward pressure, get the rpm's right, light downward pressure, let the drill bit do the work and not your arm.

>small holes, high speed. Large holes, low speed.
a larger bits outside cutting edge is turning a larger radius. If we keep the rpms the same (rpm measured at the spindle) a larger bit has a lower effective cutting rpm because the cutting edge is further away from the center of rotation. A larger bit requires a higher rpm to maintain the same speed at the cutting edge. None of this actually matters when you are milling aluminum lowers, but still.

what needs to decrease is the feed rate, because tool deflection is higher with thinner and less rigid tooling like a 1/8" drill. I dont even remember how deep the pockets are on an AR lower, but you really only need to peck once or twice to clear the chips if you feeds and speeds are right.

real machinists please correct me if I am wrong. Im just a dork with access to an old Bridgeport

Attached: KH6X5qO.png (700x700, 35K)

>acts like a retard and breaks bits
>”lol its the le old drill press not me huehue”
>blames a machine for his failures
I bet you blamed guns for the Parkland shooting too.

Is there another site like Varusteleka where i can buy surplus?

I'm not much of a metal worker.
But isn't titanium a relatively soft metal?

Bruh what. I did 80%ers with a drill press I got for FREE. I just used WD-40 for cutting lube lmao, it was what was in the garage. Mostly regular old high speed steel bits. Don't buy Chinese bits and you'll be fine.

they are titanium coated. like chrome. not made of titanium

so can you do these lowers with Just a drill press? All the videos ive seen people use routers and a jig.
Can someone lead me towards the way of the drill press.

>A larger bit requires a higher rpm to maintain the same speed at the cutting edge
Wouldn't it be the other way around? Larger bit, larger circumference, i.e. more distance traveled per revolution.

Not a machinist either, I'm an electrical inspector without even the most clapped out mill.

Go look for older videos drill press and jig used to be the main method. It fell out of favor because the endstep was a load of shit that could fuck up your press. Esentially what you did was remove most of the pocket with drillbits. Then you stuck a endmil in it for the finishing pass. You would move the jig around and use your drillpress as a mill. Sideloading a drillpress is dangerous but the theory was its a finishing pass your barely removing material its ok. Its not ok but you did it anyways cause all i have is a drillpress and dont care about fucking up my drill press.

Broken Arms bit is unbreakable and perfect for the bulk of the job, and can be used to smooth it out on the inside. However, you are just starting the holes. Are you bothering to lube up the bits and spray it with lube while its cutting? You want to lube, drill down some then come back up to get the shavings out. Don't constantly spray, but every 5-10 seconds spray a bit when you bring the drill bit up.
On a side note - Delaware is about to ban "ghost guns" IE: 80% lowers.

slow the fuck down

sounds to me like you have the drill rotating the wrong way for the bits....

>he drill press is old, 1978.
the thing sounds like its bulletproof, the problem is with you

Small holes/fast speed and big holes/slower speed is correct. Consider the circumference of the drill. If you keep the spindle speed constant, increasing your tool diameter increases your surface cutting speed.

You blungus
You krungus
You absolute and utter clampungus
What the fuck man, how did you fail like that?

You have it exactly backwards.
A larger bit needs to turn at a lower RPM in order to maintain the same surface footage. Google "surface footage calculator" and play around with the numbers.

>what needs to decrease is the feed rate
Feed rate is something you choose based on the material you are machining. It's not really dependent on cutter diameter.

> because tool deflection is higher with thinner and less rigid tooling like a 1/8" drill
tool deflection is pretty much moot when drilling in aluminum. you have a point for harder and more difficult to machine materials, or for milling. But you can press pretty damn hard on a drill bit, even a small one.

>but you really only need to peck once or twice to clear the chips if you feeds and speeds are right.
That's correct. But we're telling OP to peck more often because he's a Noob and his speeds and feeds are likely not correct. Doing things by hand is very different than doing them on a CNC. I drill holes smaller than 1/8" at 20k rpm, no peck, and feed rates so fast you'd miss seeing the drilling if you blink all day long on CNC equipment, but a noob ain't doing that with a harbor freight drill press.

That packaging is just marketing garbage for idiots. The drill bits are made of high speed steel and have a coating of Titanium Nitride on the surface. That coating is only a few atoms thick, but it is extremely hard and slippery. It makes the drill bits last longer. Those bits aren't solid titanium.

>What the fuck man, how did you fail like that?

This is what happens when kids grow up playing video games instead of learning to use tools. I'd bet three-quarters of the people in this thread aren't aware that a file only cuts in one direction.

Cant drill aluminum with a fucking press and good bits.
I thought the old ass beaner farmboys i worked with were inept but at least it was usually hardened steel that tripped them up