Hey, Jow Forums. I want to paint my AR, preferably in green shades due to my location. Here is my rifle...

Another rattle can job

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Here's your (you)
Also, here's a stencil for the Rhodesian Brushstroke pattern.
freedomstencils.com/products/rhodesian-brushtroke-camouflage-stencil-kit

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>Follows me around the general
>Doesn't post many guns
Genuinely sad.

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So poor you can’t even afford a back up iron on a video game.

looks nice. what do you use for stencils?

hows the warden for recoil though

I’m pretty curious how you did it. Got a write up?

kek.
I was just too lazy and just made it to try out the camo.
Anyway, you know where i can find these colors? I tried fde/od/foliage green and they all look like shit.

Watch your tounge. Foliage is bae.

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So the 11.5" AR and the AR10 were both done using stencils from freedom stencils. I assemble the rail and receiver before actually completely assembling the gun. The AR10 and the 11.5" AR were sprayed using Aervoe military camo paints. In between coats and new layers of stencils I would either sun dry or heat gun dry the paint till it was tacky to the touch, but not too dry. Put the next stencil down, then spray another color.

Once all the layers were done I baked the parts and paint in my oven at around 175-250 degrees for 4-8 hours depending.

The AK104 inspired clone was done using Alumahyde. I bead blasted the complete barreled receiver assembly, then degreased with brake parts cleaner, then did coats of alumahyde with maybe 15 min between coats (was drying with a heat gun). After that I speed-cured the alumahyde in the oven at 200-300 degrees for 6-10 hours.

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Next coat was just some Aervoe tan.

On another note I'm VERY impressed with the durability of the Alumahyde on my AK104 inspired build. The bead blast prep combined with the alumahyde and the forced oven cure (Initially 2 hours at 200, 2 hours at 275, 2 hours at 325, 2 hours at 250, and then 2 hours at 225) has resulted in a pretty durable finish.

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Here are the stencils:
freedomstencils.com/

Here is where I got the Aervoe:
dsgarms.com/aervoe-industries

And here is where to get the alumahyde:
brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/paint-finishes/air-cure-aerosol-paints/aluma-hyde-ii-prod1117.aspx

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Finished result!

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On the Aervoe paint job on the 11.5" though you can definitely see some wear. I used the gun, but I certainly didn't abuse it. Coats were thin though.

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Paint the gun in one or two solid camo colors let it dry. Get some leaves, small branches with leaves, lay them on the gun use some wire or two sided tape. Spray a different color on the leaves, a little black too.

The alumahyde is holding up VERY well on the AK. What was originally a bit of a bright, porous, and single color finish turned out much smoother (but not slick), darker, and less single color appearing once the dirty gun grease/oil from the action made its way onto the receiver.

If you have the time and capability to prep right, plus the ability to bake, and don't have a requirement for a bunch of colors, the alumahyde is a solid option.

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beyond anyone else in case you wondered...

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Honestly didn’t notice a difference for 5.56. 300blk supersonic was more noticeable, but still totally manageable.

That actually looks really good. I ordered stencils for the future, but decided to go with what I had on hand for now. Will post my mediocre rattle can job tomorrow, as my home has zero white light.

do you understand the purpose of camouflage?

yeah, aesthetics first and foremost

Based yeah poster.

Do you?

Here's mine. I used Krylon's brown, sand, and olive drab. I used an alternating system of base colors and pattern colors that results in all the combinations of the 3 paints being used. I took a basic laundry hamper mask to give the snakeskin look, and an old toothbrush to spatter some paint in areas to give a muddy look. I also chose to mask high-contact areas like the controls, trigger, pistol grip, receiver extension, barrel and accessories. If possible, suspend the rifle somehow (I used the sling plate) and you don't have to wait to do both sides at a time.

Other tips are:
-Any masking or patterning stencil needs to be practically skin-tight to the gun to ensure it's not blurry.
-Degrease the rifle with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and ensure its totally dry before painting.
-If painting mags, insert into the gun to paint (or mark the magwell line on other mags to make sure the paint won't interfere with smooth loading and dropping of mags.

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Here’s my stopgap paint job. I’ll probably revisit it in the near future with stenciling and paints that are ACTUALLY “ultra flat” unlike what jetliner claims, but I’m alright with my first rattlecan job.

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Krylon is shit. currently doing a rattlecan job on a motorcycle fuel tank, had been using rustoleum for every other color except the olive drab I wanted I couldn’t find except for the krylon. It doesn’t spray as evenly, clogs up all the time, the fumes are way worse, and doesn’t cover as much. I found a slightly different rustoleum color just because of how shitty the krylon was

Yeah I was really goddamn unimpressed with how krylon was. Even the ultra flat branded cans had varying levels of gloss.