I want to try making monocore silencers. I want to start with .22lr, but my 22 rifle does not have a threaded barrel. Ive been thinking of making an attachment that locks onto the muzzle like a collet with a locking ring. Has anybody tried something similar or have any ideas that dont involve threading the barrel.
inb4 glow in the dark CIA nigger get out, this is legal where I live.
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So far I've only thought about doing something like this, or possibly something similar but with grub screws holding it in place. I don't think grub screws will work too well since they don't have much holding pressure.
Is the front sight dovetailed into the barrel? You might be able to attach your device using that, if you can manage to get it off.
Looks like a silver solder joint. That would have been a good idea, but I dont have a scope on it so I need the front sight to stay.
Nah.
Ive seen these for 10/22s on aliexpress and eBay
I see this one uses setscrews. A 6mm setscrew has 4.5kN of holding force, it might be enough to keep it in place, but it seems like something that could easily loosen without you noticing it.
Could you square up the back of the front blade? You could use a collar that interfaces there, like a mosin bayonet.
How well would a section of pool noodle over the barrel work? Ghetto, but cheap
According to my European friend... Not very good at all. 2L bottle full of pink fiberglass insulation doesn't work very well either.
IIRC, that general design used to be pretty common when it came to garage built silencers for the ruger Mk 1/2, maybe google around for guides on that subject?
>inb4 glow in the dark CIA nigger get out, this is legal where I live.
bullshit, fuck off ATF
i don't know shit about any of this but ivan the troll / deterrence dispensed have supposedly made some pretty good progress on threading barrels at home in recent weeks
That looks like it was designed for the purpose of recreational baffle strikes
Supposedly? Lathes have existed since before electricity, user. This is not a difficult problem.
jb weld to barrel and make your baffle holes progressively larger
>Has anybody tried something similar
Just Hiram Percy Maxim.
i'm an idiot and was thinking of rifling
OK, Im going to build a prototype from aluminium but I didnt have the correct size extrusion, so I melted down some scrap and cast a cylinder. Ill try to make the adapter tomorrow.
I could, but I dont want to make permanent changes to the gun. So in that case I might as well thread the barrel
Ive tried random stuff in the past but it either fails after less than 5 shots or does very little to dampen sound.
I see its mostly friction fitted adapters like pic related. For a 22 it would most likely work, but I would maybe make some calculations just to be safe.
Ive been experimenting with this as well. If you grind a rifling button from a broken endmill you can push it through with an arbor press and it will automatically rotate as it cuts. Grinding the button is the hardest part, because I dont have a surface grinder or complex tool grinding machine, just regular benchtop grinders.
You can send it to a machine shop to get threaded.
I could thread the barrel, but I don't really want to make permanent modifications too the gun.
Just thread your barrel.
Use some red Loctite. You'd be surprised how well grub screws can hold.
suppressor general?
If so, is it better to form 1 and build one or just buy one? I'm cheap but want as quiet as I can go with serviceble parts. 1/2x 28 threading for 9mm.
Use a red section texture, it makes your models look a lot better
Good idea, I cast enough material to make a few different prototypes.
Im not sure how laws work in america regarding suppressors, but if you cant make more than one with a licence, then you should either work from a proven plan, or instead buy one. If you can make more than one you could play around with some prototypes. I would assume the commercial models have had a lot of testing done to optimize them. Part of the reason I want to build my own suppressors is too test how well computational fluid flow simulation fit real world models.
Ha, I know my picture is shit, but I drew that in a minute because my hand sketches looked like crap. I would think that picture probably took a few hours to render, but it was worth the wait. Do you know the software?
Yeay it is inventor right?
I have been working with it for a couple of years.
You don't really have to render your images. If you change the material and turn on shadows you get nice looking models without the need of a lengthy render.
I have been meaning to get a barrel extension for my 10/22 to do this.
adapter*
Last I checked, legit ones are only like $20-$30
this is all you need for 22. mines pretty heavy, aluminum may have been a better choice
Yip its inventor, Ive also been on it for a few years and my licence is still authentic but Ive been thinking of going to solidworks for work reasons. I always liked the perspective view setting if I want to show people stuff but ive never experimented much with presentation type views. Ive done some of the renderings with the environment tab but my work computer sounds like a turbine spinning up when I do.
My only concern with these type of adapters is that the bore is not concentric to the outer diameter of the barrel. Ill guess i will find out if it works or not soon. The idea of increasing the baffle hole diameter as you move away from the muzzle posted above is also good. Maybe adding a wipe at the end will improve performance.
Hey, I mean it's cheaper than getting a lathe.
I assume this is also with the setscrews like in this picture?
Yep, have that on my left-handed bolt savage. 10/22 i barrel swapped for threaded.
if i was to make a suppressor for .22 LR id use "furniture grade PVC". company called formufit would have what you'd need. little imagination you could figure it out. then track down a 1/2 x 28 tap
1.25" dia pipe, 1.25" dia pvc caster fitting inserts with the shoulders knocked off for baffles, 1.25" dia pvc caster pipe cap on each end to close it up. says caster hole ID is 0.438" so that would probably be about right for a 1/2" tap
used to dabble in this stuff when i was a kid. run subsonic ammo and you will be down into pellet gun range reports. it doesnt take much for .22
>I would think that picture probably took a few hours to render, but it was worth the wait. Do you know the software?
what did user mean by this
In terms of performance I've always wondered how much of the game was volume and how much was turbulence. Baffles really just make the gas take longer to exit (by creating turbulence in the can) and that gives the gas time to cool down and contract back to a lower volume, while a larger can volume does the same, give the gas time to cool down before it has to exit.
So I've always wondered if a suppressor with a big, high surface area heatsink would work better or worse than just some baffles or monocore stack or whatever. Maybe combine them. Maybe some round aluminum heatsink discs? I think the reason that user's friend's fiberglass filled 2-liter wasn't very useful while steel wool is a staple of bootleg suppressors is that fiberglass doesn't really absorb much heat.
Dude hear me out. Water cooled suppressors.
Why do you think any suppressor that you can run water or a grease in runs quieter? It both suppresses some of the combustion from the unburnt powder and cools the gas.
Unless you mean a heatsink and a radiator. Which I am also onboard for.
water is heavy user
If you do this op make sure the supressor you are using is basically disposable. With the no threads adapters you can make it work but baffle strikes are very likely, but something like an oil filter or an aluminum beer bottle wouldnt matter, and i have it on good authority from my buddies brothers cousin in europe that he uses a custom made adapter to use a regular empty aluminum beer bottle to silence so quiet he can shoot in his house. Works just as good as an oil filter if not better for some reason, probably length and volume
I should also say thats for 22lr
lol that guy sounds cool
The main concern would be them being perfectly aligned in the barrel. Maybe use a can with a wider opening, like a 9mm can or something? Could also take it to a machinist with a proper lathe and have it done.
Not sure what you are asking, but to make a cad image look like that takes a long time and a lot of gpu power.
Yip, like you said, to minimize pressure you have to either increase volume or decrease temperature (P=T/V). Fibreglass would insulate temperature, while decreasing the volume inside the can. Heat transfer is a function of the Reynolds number of the fluid, so the level of turbulence would have a large impact on heat transfer, heat sinks might work to keep it cool over time, but I would think your initial shots would still be the same. With stacked heat exchangers an increase in turbulace actually decreases the drag due to boundry layer separation, but this depends heavily on the geometry of the exchanger and might not apply to the small size and shape of suppressors. You can set up a design to "trip" fluid flow into turbulence, that might be something to try out.
I think the large volume idea is why reflex silencers work very well despite having less baffles. The large initial increase in volume and surface area allows the gas to cool while the few baffles causes turbulence and traps the gas inside for longer.
These will be throwaway designs until something works well enough. I want to eventually build a suppressor for my AR, so the 22 ones will be for testing.
I'm going to use the outside diameter of the barrel as my reference surface, so I'm hoping the bore is cut concentric to the outside of the barrel. I was thinking of making it 8mm too have 1mm clearance on each side, but somebody else mentioned above to increase the hole diameter in the baffle as you move away from the barrel to avoid strikes, so I might try that.
I cut the rough diameters today, but didn't have much time. I'll finish it on Monday and start with a suppressor. I will make another suppressor general thread or post it in one when I have good results. Thank you guys for the replies.
>but to make a cad image look like
I'm like 90% sure that 1911 cutaway is a real gun that's been cut up.
Photorealistic renders are a thing, especially in architecture like pic related. Usually they will have a computer dedicated to doing renders. Several companies make machines specially for rendering, which is basically a PC with a shitload of GPU's. There's also more modern stuff going on with some blockchain magic to do renders faster, but I am not familiar with that.
I know photorealistic renders are a thing retard, I'm just saying that people have been making actual firearms cutaways for longer than there have been computers.
Turns out is a 3D render though so I guess you won things one