Operating a Lathe to make your own firearm

Yes, but i dont know why the fuck youd do that. Just use lots of oil and prepare to break a few cutters/bits. Ive been thinking of making a 20mm minigun. I figured that if i can redesign the m134 in my unigraphics cad to fire 20mm bullets it will be the closest i can get to a vulcan

Need more than just a lathe. I'd start with a bridgeport. Little more epxensive. way more capble

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>Would be possible to do all the riflings with a lathe?

There are other at home methods for rifling that are a bit easier:

thefirearmblog.com/blog/2017/03/02/diy-barrel-rifling-using-salt-water-electricity-3d-printed-jig/

I just don't know why you'd buy a lathe and only make a handful of barrels.
If you already have one or get a super good deal then ok

I mean it def seems like a cool project anyways

I have machine tools for my other hobbies.

Farmcraft101 used to have a sister channel guncraft101. But all the vids have been deleted because youtube

Tool steel isn't particularly difficult to machine. The trick is hardening it to the correct hardness for the part.

nice try atf

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What's the ammo price on a "20mm minigun" in dollars per second?

for a properly functional project where the barrel isnt the actual focus, its better to just buy a barrel blank from X company and ream the chamber yourself
If you want to DIY a barrel anyway, there are many methods most with easy instructions on youtube, but you will 99.9% not make an accurate or precise firearm with your handmade barrel

>10k per machine
yeah, maybe for a production environment, or a pretty nice indy work machine
10k can easy get you some hobby grade grizzly benchtop mill, a lathe and SOME tooling. idk about kilns/ovens for heat treating though, I imagine theyre relatively cheap

>Would be possible to do all the riflings with a lathe?
you dont do rifling with a lathe. you can but you dont because its terribly timeconsuming
what you are thinking of is profiling a barrel blank.
rifling pretty much requires its own specialized machinery if you want it done right.

Lathe will let you turn barrels and bolts, but a mill and a great variety of tooling and workholding will be there heavy lifter. The base cost of a manual Bridgeport is a few thousand but setting up 3-phase power in your house and having a concrete slab you can anchor to become difficult and very expensive.
Rifling can be done with a rifling button and press and is incredibly simple if not pretty.

No ATF nobody here makes their own FA.

this nigger has no idea what hes talking about and everyone should ignore his laughable advice.

99% of mills and lathes operate at the same speed whether you spend $1,000 or $30,000.

The difference between them is the reinforcement of the machine itself to handle making cuts.
you can make guns on a few thousand dollar mill, but you will have to go much slower than you would a $20,000 mill due to stress on the machine itself.

Apart from making a barrel, gun parts are laughably easy to make.

Getting your material selection and heat treatment correct is harder than actually machining the parts.

$20/round more or less

Isn't the lathe actually the right tool for doing a threaded barrel.

You just need the right kind of lathe with a synchronized carriage.

Doing a barrel rifling is just like doing a screw thread.

>milled off the blocking bar
>Not making a slotted throwaway bolt

Ya goofed.

>WHO HERE KNOWS HOW TO MAKE GUNS WITH MACHINE EQUIPMENT AND MAKES ILLEGAL FULL AUTO GUNS? PLEASE GIVE DETAILS
How about you go and get fucked, you legitimate alphabet nigger?

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Get or cut a rectangular block of metal, drill a hole through it long ways, then rifle the hole (plenty of easy processes to do this). Just leave the barrel square, it just has to do what it has to do, not look good or be the best at doing it.

lathe is way too fast for barrel turning.

This.
For quite a while I operated an HMC that took a .5" by 4" pass at 60fpm several hundred times per shift. This was done with a 16 tooth 12" slot cutter. This machine shat on spindles bi or tri annually, Operating cost well exceeded 100k per calendar but it was absolutely worth it considering that machine generated many millions of dollars with minimal operator time.

That's illegal and no one here would ever do that.

Holy shit this thread is full retard.

With a lathe you will be able to turn exterior profiles on barrels, thread and chamber but you will not be able to cut rifling. You can drill/ream or bore holes as well but the depth of hole is going to be generally too short for anything but pistol barrels without specialized setup. With a 4 jaw chuck you can hold various non round items an cut round sections into them or drill holes. (think the round protrusions on an ak hammer). The key to lathes is rigidity, which is why most of the new lathes made in china suck, (light as possible, cheap plastic gears and everything). Buying an old 1940's 50's or 60's lathe is a better option, they are much more rigid, better built, but also weigh a fuckton and usually have a full 60 years of wear. Older lathes will have slower speeds as they are made for HSS tooling (high speed steel), and not carbide, however you can usually use them with carbide depending on the material. (steel works, aluminum not so much). Its more about surface finish and tool life than it is if it will literally cut the material at slower speeds though.

Mills are where most of the machine work in a firearm comes in once you have the barrel done. With a good lathe and a mill like a bridgeport you can make a lot of stuff and do complete rudimentary firearms, without the aid of cnc. Just don't think you are going to easily scratch build a 1911 with basic machines and end mills.

yeah listen to this guy, guys. He just reiterated almost exactly whats already been said

A full CNC mill with servodrive could easily emulate a sine rifling machine, while also being useful for prepaing the barrel blank.

>buying a mill instead of lathe and milling attachment when you can only have one.
What the fuck. Have fun chambering barrels and threading on a mill.

how the fuck are you going to machine a lower with a lathe

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See

This is a must watch. Fun video on making a musket by hand using a wooden lathe, etc.
youtube.com/watch?v=qTy3uQFsirk
I would also say to look up TheIdahoanShow on jewtube

I make full auto AK and PKM's all the time and sell to dubious people all the time
also I'm a tribal arms maker in the Khyber pass so whatever

>. Either carbide or diamond tip
Nonsense. Those certainly last longer if you're doing high volume production, but you can certainly machine gun steels with HSS tooling. Fuck, did you think they were using carbide or diamonds to make Springfields, K98s, Arisakas, Mausers, Lugers, 1911s, etc? fuck no.

>if it takes you 2 hours to mill a 50 dollar barrel, is it really worth it?
Depends on what your goal is.
If you want to make a custom weapon you can't buy off the shelf it might be your ONLY option. Likewise if you want to make something in a clandestine manner.

>way more capble
Nonsense.
Anything you can do on a Bridgeport you can also do on a lathe, it just takes more effort. The Lathe is the most cruical of all machine tools. If you have one you can make the rest.

Electro is easier, but it's also much much shittier.

Mount the milling cutter in the chuck and the workpiece on the carriage. It's a huge pain in the ass compared to using a mill, but it's doable.

Clamp the barrel so it's overhanging the table and pointing down towards the ground. Swing mill head over the barrel. Use coaxial indicator to center the spindle over the bore. Ream.

All you need is to be able to create the barrel rifling.

The rest can be 3d printed, then casted with alluminium.

Lathe and drill press is all you need to create certain simple firearms, like an open bolt smg.

Retarded thread as usual, but I have one. I only build from rifled blanks on it because gun drilling is a pain. You can cut threads but it's less than ideal because it can't synchronize threads accurately with a twist that high. I tested it with a range of feeds and it will jump from 1:7 to 1:9.5 to 1:13 and so on. I can't find my sheet that gives the exact twists it will do. Button rifling makes more sense.

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How much would it cost to just weld some extra metal to the frame?

Two workarounds:
1) use your machine tools to build yourself a pull-style rifling fixture. Remember, people created rifling before the industrial revolution. They built tools to do it. You can do the same. Find pics or watch video of, say, a colonial USA gunsmith's shop. Look at how that's done. Build yourself a tool like that.

2) On many lathes, especially older ones, it's possible to use change gears (or fab a simple attachment) to speed up your leadscrew or the countershaft so that you can cut the rifling using the machine's threading or Z-axis feed.

3) If your lathe has rapid traverse on the carriage you may be able to use that to cut rifling. I've used it to make mandrels to form springs. Since the rapid is fixed speed, you'd change your rifling pitch by changing spindle RPM.

4) Put leadscrew in neutral, rig up a motor such as a mill's power feed motor, to turn it.

Think like a real machinist, don't just push buttons.

You can't do that; heat from welding would warp the casting. You can, however, fill hollow cavaties in the machine with lead shot and scrap iron and sand. Weight helps with reducing vibration, but it doesn't make up for a fundamentally weak machine. It's not just mass, it's the size of the gears and bearings, the size and type of the ways, the size of the axis servos (and their power supply), leadscrews, etc. Trying to make a lightweight machine work harder is a fool's errand.

That said, if you're talking about DIY projects it doesn't matter so much. You're just forced to work slower. That would be impossible in a business which had to stay competitive, but a hobbyist doesn't give a fuck about production efficiency.

not really related but does any of you have( or could quickly make one) an ak barrel blueprint chambered in .223?

Haha yeah I'll just hack up a late model Haas to do my hobby. Shut the fuck up kid.

forgot to mention that i need them in metric

Lmao retard upset somebodys smarter than him.

You don't know shit. Using rapid for something that requires spindle orientation? Truly brilliant

Fed

>YoU DuNn knO ShIt!
Very convincing. Careful, you'll be late for the school bus.

>>talks about machining
>>can't figure out how to manually orient his spindle

Go look at a trade school textbook from the 1930's and you'll be amazed what you can do with math, a sine bar, and a dial indicator.

this turned into a thread about a guy who actually cares about a tool he owns and idiots who think since something is theoretically possible its practical to do.

I know all that shit. I have a geared lathe that would make everything he said much easier, and I don't use it every day so I could build whatever I wanted for it. The problem isn't initial orientation, it's the control of spindle speed at such low RPMs. It changes RPMs in coarse increments that don't align with the RPM input I give it. If I unlocked it for faster rapids (same machine without handles had a higher rapid) I could maybe get into a sweet spot. But the real answer would be a controller that wasn't Mickey Mouse Haas shit. I bet a Siemens or Fanuc can control low spindle speeds accurately.

What's more, I'm concerned that it would use that same control scheme to run an output, meaning an accessory motor would have the same issue. A rotary table would work but idk if Haas lathes can even run one.

I'm willing to have a conversation about it if you aren't condescending. Obviously barrels can be made 'old school' but any solution has to be more efficient than me buying a $3000 manual lathe and turning it into a rifling machine, because I'd just do that instead

*glowing intensifies*

Based
Cucked

>know how to, yes
>not with the actual lathe, but you could use the lathe as a mount and for reaming.

the lathe isn't properly equipped to do rifling and any rifling you could make would end up being too extreme. if you are going to cut rifling the industrial method is a pneumatic arm and a cutting guide. you can make a six headed cutter and cut all the groove you need in one go, but making one is a pain in the ass and you will have to cut very lightly to prevent chatter.

I would recommend making a dedicated rifling rig for any method and CUTTING only ONE grove and indexing (rotating around the horizontal axis to create a repeating pattern). rifling is usually the most time consuming part of gun making.

there are three methods of rifling I know of:
>cutting
>pressing a button
>hammering a mandril

of these methods the mandrill and cut method are preferred. a cut rifle normally has squared off rifling and a pressed or mandrill will have "V" shaped grooves.

Mandrill (no one but crazy ppl do this):
youtube.com/watch?v=oALJDh43K3I

Button (in theory you can rifle anything like this you just need enough rod to push the button)
youtube.com/watch?v=J3pDlKxou6Y

cut rifling:
youtube.com/watch?v=ou8nNBn5Cbs

like some of the other anons have mentioned there may be some electro-plating methods but they are very sketch and you need to study chemistry/EM first.

Did someone say ol-timey rifling?

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Based americanpieposter

>He wants a cast aluminum ar bolt and carrier or a slide on a straight blowback gun
Dear lord

Cast steel should work but you would need a much more powerful furnace for that - probably still doable with a garage setup but maybe not cheaper than a mill.

Use a lathe to make a firearm? Maybe if you're using a round tube-gun design. Otherwise I couldn't tell you.

Is it possible to rifle on a lathe? Not as far as I know. Lathes aren't geared to the high rate of tool advancement and low rotational speed that rifling machines are.

>Did anyone ever make a full auto?
No one's gonna answer that one. honestly I've never used machines to make a gun, I'm just a machinist.

Carbide's nice but you can generally do without if you're not machining H13 tool steel or some super hard shit that's not much softer than high speed steel. Much as I like being able to replace inserts, being able to grind your own HSS cutting tools is an important skill.

How much do you save by generating a $50 barrel in two hours? Is it more or less expensive to fabricate it?

I built a furnace made out of a Walmart helium tank cut in half and cerro wool glued into it with flue cement. I just used a black iron pipe burner with a MIG tip as a jet and it was naturally aspirated, no blower, hooked up to a 20 lb propane tank with a regulator to control the pressure and that was it. It probably cost 100-130 bucks to make and at about 30 PSI it could melt aluminum in 5 minutes and copper in 20 or so. With forced air and some improvements steel would be easily achievable and be far more efficient too because at 30+ psi I'd eat through a fresh tank in a day or 2.

Why not use your HAAS lathe (and I assume if you have a CNC lathe then you probably have some sort of mill too) to make an old-fashioned style pull rifling machine?

In other words, option #1 from anyway, you said you had a "geared lathe" and you don't use it daily so that you're free to mod it, thus you have the other 3 options available to you as well.

>Yes
>No
>No, and not that id ever be willing to admit

You fell for the Sieg meme

No you arent making a firearm of any sort with just a lathe, to think so is utter absurdity of the highest order

At lest, you need a mill as well, and all the machinist tooling to go with, as well as the design and engineering experience, if you want to be able to make something that wont both suck and cause the bolt to shoot through your shoulder in a best case scenario

Knowing how to do math is important when containing explosions, who knew

I made a fully semi automatic Assault rifle 47 with a wood lathe in my grand uncles sex dungeon.

Also, I have three female german shepherds you can shoot with your load OP, cum on by.

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Before or after it went up your pussy?

That looks like a neat water slide

Is that the same uncle who abused you and recently died, leaving you in line to inherit his millions, which you will generously give away to someone whose post number ends in a specific set of digits?

during

lmao at this guy's replies. i think he's the shop assistant that does the pickups and deliveries

Nice try atf.

But yes if you got a lathe or mill Ideally both you can make pretty much any gun you want. With time and patients ofc. A good Bridgeport can be had for 4 grand and cheaper same with a lathe. If you can only buy one get a lathe and a small milling attachment. Rifling is easier to do with a shop press and rifling button. You should have a press if you have machine tools anyway and rifling buttons are 60 bucks on eBay from ukrain or Russia. You can also just use barrel blanks.

>Is it possible to rifle on a lathe? Not as far as I know. Lathes aren't geared to the high rate of tool advancement and low rotational speed that rifling machines are.
Two ways. Three, really...
>modern CNC lathe
Use C/Z linear interpolation instead of threading cycle. (Don't tell me you bought a modern lathe without C-axis...)
>ancient change-gear lathe
Set up back gearing so you drive the leadscrew one turn, and the spindle makes a small fraction of a turn (whereas normally you drive the spindle one turn and the leadscrew makes a fraction of a turn)
>intermediate-age lathe with quick-change gearing
Yeah, there's no efficient solution here.

>bonus method for any lathe
Put the spindle in neutral and use the carriage to pull a rifling button through, letting it spin the spindle at its own twist rate.

Can't you make everything out of alliminium?

Use a 3d printer to make the piece. Finish the 3d printed piece.

Then create a sand mold. Cast the parts with alluminium.

I guess the barrel could also be made by casting.

All you have to do is to 3d print the rifled hole. Then use a shape a barrel with a sacrificable material that will melt.
Then you remove the 3d printed piece. Fill the hole with sand. Create a sand mold of the barrel. Then pour the hot alluminium. Luckly the sacrificable piece will melt, and it will leave a rifled barrel made of alliminium.

I would never shoot anything larger than 22 with a cast aluminum barrel. Maaaaaaaybe 22 mag if it was particularly thick and well-made, but that's the absolute maximum. brake line and steel pipe is cheap and ubiquitous enough that there's no reason not to use that, and it's fucking pipe they're literally can't Ban it.

I wouldn't trust cast aluminum for any parts under direct load, but you could use it for the low stress components.

>Anything you can do on a Bridgeport you can also do on a lathe
Take your retard pills and put the keyboard down.

Why exactly can't you cut rifling on a lathe? I did the machinist gig earlier in life and I guess I'm not understanding something about smithing. I had an old old American lathe with a six foot stroke and it would take huge cuts without bogging down. Would destroy tooling before it slowed. I'm pretty sure I could cut rifling with a more precise and newer smaller lathe, so what am i missing here?

Go on then, tell me what you can do on a bridgeport that you can't do with a lathe.

The overwhelming majority of lathes don't have a feed rate which is fast enough, or a thread-cutting rate which is "coarse" enough. Normal cutting feedrates are a few to several thousandths per rev. A common rifling twist rate (1 in 10") would require, say, 10,000 thou per rev if you're using cutting feeds, or 1/10th TPI if you were using the leadscrew. Most lathes simply don't have feeds anywhere close to that fast.

>cast barrel
that's a huge safety risk
It also wouldn't last for shit. Barrels need to be very smooth inside. Casting, especially amateur tier shit like you're describing, has a very rough texture.

I can work one not well but I can.

Faggot working at Faxon here. We do rifling with a long drill machine. You'll need a mill, lathe, and long drill machine if you want to get into making firearms. A decent manual might be enough to get started.

>A decent manual might be enough to get started.
whats a good manual?

We have some manual bridgeports and chevaliers that we use. They're old but honestly, you can get some very rugged machines that were built in the 80's. They're in better condition than a lot of our Haas mills that were built in the early 2000's. Also, we use custom reamers and crowners for chambering and crowning. I know you can get reamers commercially. Not sure about the crowners. Expect to pay hundred's of dollars per tool though.

>absolutely needs a long drill machine, no other option possible

Retard detected.

Yeah just what part did you do with the lathe? The barrel? Sure hope you liked cutting those metric threads. You didn't mention the welder or the flat bending die

That machine is called a "gun drill" user. That's literally its name.

I assume user means manual machine tools. I couldn't tell you who makes a decent gun drill; those are very specialized machines. A bridgeport mill, or clone, would be good, though something heavier like a Sharp VH3 would be much better. Lathes? Tons of options. If you're looking for used machines I'd look at American Turnmaster, Monarch, Clausing, and LeBlond (manual shift, not servo) since those will be the most common good machines on the used market. If you can find a manual Okuma or Mazak that would be even better. Lion (imported from Bulgaria) is excellent too.

It was bad wording to say he needs it, but you're a nigger. I know he has other options, especially after reading through the thread. If he wants to do mass production it will save his ass a lot of pain.

Yes I know and we use those to drill out the bore of barrels before they get reamed and rifled. Rifling is done with a machine that pulls the rod through rather than pushes it so its a different process and a different type of machine. We also have massive drill machines that we use to hollow out shells for bombs. Those aren't gun drills though.

>We also have massive drill machines that we use to hollow out shells for bombs.
It's bothering me that you're using vague terms like "massive drill machines" when you could be more specific. Can you be more specific as to what kind of tools you are using? Layout drill? Radial arm drill? Gang drill? Just a plain 'ol gearhead drill press? Or do you work in a different department and are only vaguely familiar with the machines?

>How many here know how to do it?
Take the political demographics of machinists and CNC operators, and the age demographics, and the ratio of part-full time work for those professions, then look at Jow Forums's advertising data to determine the number of unique visitors that K receives. Do the same to draftsmen and apply some correction factor to artificially reduce their number, 0.05 seems reasonable to me.

>Would be possible to do all the riflings with a lathe?
You could, but you would be stupid to do so. You want a gun boring or deep boring machine. Or, just build a rifling machine you fucknig idiot.

>Also did anyone here ever made his own full auto firearm??? Tell us your experience.
Fuck off ATF.

You're literally fine if you're using a VPN or even just TOR. Yeah they COULD find you if they focused on you, but they've bigger fish to fry. They dedicate most of their force on trafficking rings.

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This. I suspect the "NOT TODAY, FED BOY" meme is a campaign to stop us spreading the knowledge. We used to talk about this kind of thing all the time.

i'm not one to really believe in glowfags here but that's just insane

I get that but this just doesn't feel right to talk about with the way OP wrote his thread. I doubt anyone who says "nice try feds" really has anything to say in the first place but i'm going to trust my instinct on this one being sketchy without a VPN or TOR

Jow Forums blocks TOR and many VPNs.

>us
Not today CIA