QTDDTOT - Super Lube Edition

Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread. Post yours and hopefully seek the holy grail from kind Anons willing to help your retarded ass out.

To start, I was wondering what is and isn't acceptable to help clean, lubricate, and protect your gun with? I have some rifles that were cleaned a while ago but haven't been shot in a while. Do I need to clean and oil the internals again or should I just wipe them down with some oil? Can I just use some all-purpose grease and wipe 'em down or do I HAVE to use a gun oil? Pic related.

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Other urls found in this thread:

g4gguns.com/product/franklin-armory-binary-trigger-cz-c1-scorpion
militaryissue.com/Nuremberg-Eagle-Anodized-Bronze/productinfo/M650326/
pzg.biz/busts-statues-eagles.html
eforms.atf.gov/EForms/
twitter.com/AnonBabble

Guys Named Lee SD-3G, or some Hiperfire trigger such as the Eclipse? I'm looking for a trigger that will let me rip double taps as easily as possible.

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You shouldnt use grease on parts that get dirty with carbon, the grease will absorb it and create an abrasive thatll cause those parts to wear faster.
Oil on parts like that, grease on the rest.

I even take a rag and will buff in grease on teh exterior of blued guns, until you cant feel the grease with your touch, works great for rust prevention, last longer than oil

Is it going to be a range toy?

I do not plan on it being a range toy. If I wanted it to be a range toy, I'd get the Fostech Echo or Franklin BFS trigger (Pull-release triggers that are totally unreliable).

I think single stage triggers with no takeup and short travel are best for rapid fire. 2 stage is better for marksmanship. Lots of good choicesbout there.

What triggers will fill that role other than Hiperfire?

I have a KE Arms SLT-1. Absolutely zero takeup, it doesn't even budge until it breaks at about 4 to 5 lbs and the travel is like 2 mm total after it breaks.

With gun lubricant, higher the temp the better.
and nondegrading>degrading

also don't pick one that's water soluble

Use cleaning products to clean your gun. Which you should use depends on what you are trying to clean, exactly. Black powder fouling must be cleaned with soapy water. There are a zillion products on the market for removing smokeless powder fouling, as well as for removing copper fouling. For those applications just pick one. I use Hoppes #9 for powder fouling and Janitor's strength ammonia for copper:

Use a protection product for protection. I used to use CLP, I switched to EEZOX.

For lubrication refer to your particular gun's manual and what it calls for. Some things call for grease, others call for oil. Don't mix up the two. If in doubt use oil (pretty much any oil will work). Some applications call for grease, but I wouldn't go using it for everything. Grease tends to be sticky, so if there is any dirt or grit around then it will stick to the grease.

Has anyone bought from these guys? 377 for a binary trigger seems like a great deal.

g4gguns.com/product/franklin-armory-binary-trigger-cz-c1-scorpion

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"gun" oil is 99% meme
I use moto chain lube for nearly everything because it creeps well, cleans fairly well, protects from corrosion well, and doesn't gather dust like grease.

Making an FPS set in the korean war, is there any cool shit i can put into the game? who took part in the war other than the americans and gooks?

I have a HBLMS Harris bipod along with a picatinny mount adapter. Do I even need to install the picatinny rail mount for use with the mount adapter? Can't I just install the bipod via a sling stud? Or does installing the pic rail to the rifle, adding the pic rail bipod mount adapter, and then installing the bipod to that allow it to swivel? This is my first time installing anything like this. Thanks bros.

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i like lucas gun lube, it's pretty cheap and you can get it at autozone

Does Glock test fire their pistols before shipping them? I noticed a bunch of copper on the feed ramp of my new 19 barrel but was told the pistol was nib. I'd be pretty pissed if it was actually a return or used.

wilson combat 3gun trigger
literally designed for double taps

Best route to move 25-50 guns?
t.former dealer not interested in putting in the time.
Local auction house wants 10% commission

>clean
To clean, you need a dedicated solvent. Hoppe's number 9 is a good start.
>lubricate
Plain mineral oil as found in the drugstore or non-detergent motor oil as found in the hardware store is all you need. Grease is a just a soap that absorbs oil.
>protect
Any substance that isolates the metal from water and oxygen will work.

Ignore all that, I'm going to install a pic rail. But I do have another question:

Do I need anything (like a spacer) in between the pic rail and the stock? I removed the sling swivels from the two holes pictured in the stock a long time ago but forget what I removed and can't find them. Yes, I'm retarded.

Thanks in advance anons

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Should I get a skinner sight for my CZ 550 even though I plan on getting a scope eventually anyway? I'm saving up for a good leupold, so it'll be awhile at my income, but would the peep sight be enough of an upgrade from the standard sights to be worth it as an in-between? It's my deer rifle.

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Skinner Sights, IMO, are a good substitute over normal iron sights but not necessarily a good upgrade per se. The advantage they have is giving you a good "aim small, miss small" sight but the advantage is only marginally better than practicing with stock irons. I would save the money and spend it towards bills and for your scope if I were you.

Detergents are good, they help clean, non detergent oil will bake on and turn to sludge, new motor oil is non toxic anyway.

I would like to buy a replica of a "Nuremberg desk eagle". Can you guys recommend me a good e-shop that sells clones taken directly from an original of these desk statues? I found this e-shop militaryissue.com/Nuremberg-Eagle-Anodized-Bronze/productinfo/M650326/ Is that a good prize?

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What model of Thompson is this?

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Why would the gun come with test casings otherwise, and why are you such an autistic fuck?
What's the difference between one of millions of unshot glocks and one of millions of unshot glocks? Go shoot it, you fat fuck.

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New to bolt guns and trying to decide on a deer hunting/long range plinking rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor. Not gonna compete and would like the gun to be under 9lbs loaded.
Having narrowed this down to the Bergara B-14 Ridge and Howa 1500 HS-Precision, can anyone suggest which is the better choice? Are replacement barrels easier for one vs the other? Budget of $1000.

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give me a dumb version instructional on napa 4003 quiet shootie. like list of shit and where to buy it and what to do with it. I wanna make a .22 quietlyer.

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I’m a new shooter so forgive me if this is dumb or asked a lot. Is there a 9mm drum magazine for the Taurus g2c/sig p226? They feed the same magazine but the biggest I see is the promag 32 rd mag and I hear they suck. Really wanted a drum

Geezus, just buy some damn Hoppes and shut the fuck up.

All is well. Everyone can rest easy tonight

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pzg.biz/busts-statues-eagles.html

based old nigger

Bergara HMR?

The bike shop I worked at did this with non wear surfaces on vintage stuff. Time consuming, but the customers really appreciated the results.

Has anyone seen any of the new Zastava USA products in stock in their local gun stores, or are they still online distribution only?

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Yes. I figured it out though Can't wait to stretch her legs

It all depends. Do you intend to do social work, or hunt with it?

He died recently. Fuck the guy who robbed him

Where can I get wood grips for this..?

Getting the slide blued to mimic weeb's edge

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So you haven't yet shot it? Considering the B-14 Ridge and the Howa 1500 and looking for opinions

Hunt social workers

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Jow Forums that pic of an old newspaper clipping, it was a civil war vet bitching about how easy WW1 or WW2 soldiers had it and "back in my day"

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What are the advantages of a circle dot reticle compared to a dot reticle for a non-magnified optic?

What would happen if I lubed my gat with cum?

Circle dot can give you easier adjustments for point of aim relative to your zero and aid in acquisition. For instance, you zero the dot for a specific range and know that at a closer/further range you can use the top or bottom of the circle as your point of aim depending on range of the target and of your zero.

>To start, I was wondering what is and isn't acceptable to help clean, lubricate, and protect your gun with
Semen

Just about everyone who was aligned with the Allies during WW2 to some extent or another.

I bought a gun from them. Prices seemed really good. Showed up at my ffl 3 days after ordering. I'd say if you want it go for it.

Have you considered a binary trigger?

$135 buckss? I seen cheaper the same eagle on another sites: $59
militaryissue.com/Nuremberg-Eagle-Anodized-Bronze/productinfo/M650326/

Very minor question that, while not a Jow Forums question, I feel a number of you could answer.

My grandpa asked me to be his guardian for an honor flight. I am honored and am filling out the application, but am not sure who to list as a "personal" reference. Like I assume not family, maybe my boss at work?

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Usually you use a friend, but since you clearly have none other than your grandpa, you could use your boss, yeah, just try to ask them before you put them on it.

As someone with little experience using tools, how hard would it be to complete a 80% ar lower without a drill press? Would just buy a finished lower but

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I bought 17 Desert Eagles from an online gun store for about $35 each, and big surprise, they cancelled my orders today after calling me to confirm. Should I call them back and bitch them out, demanding my guns I paid for, should I go to a lawyer and do I even have a case, or do I drop it and just be angry today?

I was going to donate most of them to a bunch of friends and a few to the raffle at Nuggetfest, but that's obviously not happening now.

Without a mill, you can use a drill press and do some shoddy work.
Without a drill press, you're fucked, sorry bud. If you're

all they are legally obligated to do is to refund your money

Can't buy a finished lower since (unsure about other states) but lowers have to be transferred as "other" in ny which you need to be 21 for.
Maybe I'll just buy one or two and stash them until I have the proper tools.

Damn. Same or different if they're bought via GunBroker?

Guess I'll just go be mad today about not getting $20k in Desert Memegles for about $700.

Ah damn, yeah at least where I am a finished lower with a stock on it would be a rifle I believe. That sucks, user.

oh well I only got 2 more semesters of college until I can leave this hellhole anyways

Why would you put the rail on there? The sling stud attachment it already QD, sits lower and doesn't look like shit.

Take that rail and rail adapter off and put the bipod directly on the sling stud you want to use. The bipod legs extend for a reason and you just added an inch of height for no reason.

I have a 92fs that I want to slap a long barrel and slide on. I can find barrels no problem but cant find shit for slides. Any one know who makes them?

I simply want a long boi spaghett gun.

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You CAN use anything you want but the results you get probably won't be satisfactory.

Hoppe's #9 is a great medium-strength gun solvent that's available everywhere. It'll clean but evaporates too quickly to protect or lube, so buy a bottle of gun oil. Doesn't matter what kind.

In my experience CLPs aren't very good at Cing Ling or Ping so get a good solvent and a separate oil. The only oil I'd recommend not getting is Hoppe's because it's very thick like mineral oil (also prob don't use that) and doesn't soak into the metal nicely like some thinner "gun" oils do.

The bipod already clips directly to the sling stud, why add the rail?

Hogue, Altamont or KSD probably. Also you can't blue that slide, it's already Bruniton coated. You'd have to grind away that finish which would take away a lot of metal and all the markings, possibly making the slide weak.

Start here with a Form 1
eforms.atf.gov/EForms/

Promag does suck. Unfortunately the biggest OEM P226 mags are 20 round, and you can get 18 round "flush fit" ones from Mecgar. Buy lots!

The circle is meant to help bracket a target quickly without getting lost and the dot is meant for precision.

>long barrel and slide [beretta]
I've never heard of such a thing, but there are compensators and weight systems you can attach. 5"+ is pretty long already!

Would mounting a aimpoint 9000L or SC with just one mounting ring be ok?

I'd like to get into building aks, but of course parts kits are obscenely expensive because fuck everyone I guess. To save like $300 on the different rivet jigs I'd like to just go with the bolt method, forming grade 8 bolts into different tools you'd need (or other hardened tools like punches). If I just use a normal drill bit to form the cup, will the non some shape cause any issues other than non domed rivet heads?

none of my 3 glocks have ever come with a test casing. All purchased from separate locations. And the difference, for me, is that the gunshop told me it was a brand new pistol they had just received earlier in the week. If they lied to me about that and the gun is actually a return from another customer then A) I would never have paid full price and B) I have no clue why the other person returned it, it could have something wrong with it.

People say that adding a barrel-mounted bipod ruins barrel harmonics. Yet many military guns out there are issued with and without bipods. How much difference does a bipod really make? Pls explain

If you're building AK kits to save money you're a decade too late. I'd buy the proper jigs and re-sell them when you're finished. I've never done the "bolt method" but you don't want to spend hours building a rifle that comes out looking like an INSAS.

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If you're precision shooting it'll mess with it enough to cause a noticeable difference and inconsistencies. If you're shooting at silhouettes of dudes 300m out with an M240 it don't matter.

Thanks!

No no, I know building an AK now cost as much or more than just buying a wasr. I want to do it just because I want to do it (especially with an 80%). But if I can save like 300 bucks for just a little more hassle that's almost a whole nother parts kit I could buy and make two instead of one. It's fucking gay because legion arms and ghost Gunner both used to have a 400 or $500 kit that has literally EVERYTHING except a flat Bender but legion went out of business and ghost Gunner doesn't have fucking anything anymore. So now there's like three companies selling the exact same jigs and they're exactly the same as the ones from the the olden days (like 10 years ago like you said) except now if you bought everything will be more than 50% more expensive.

do it and post it here so we can laugh at ur bubbabuild and make an example out of u

Europoor looking to "build" an AR here, I've narrowed my limited options down to a Stag-15 Bones and an Aero Precision OEM kits. The builds I've planned around them both end up roughly at the same price range (~1800€, lovely isn't it), I've been reading a bunch of written reviews for both companies but honestly the only information I've managed to glean from them is that neither of them are bad. So, friends over the pond, which manufacturer would you consider more value for the same amount of money?

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Lubricant can make a difference, and there is literally a set of Mech/Chem eng dedicated to it - Tribology.
You can get away with a *lot*. Some oils / greases are much better. The Super Lube you have a pic of is a great general use grease, on guns and otherwise. Some oils also have great cleaning properties, this scares the Cletus. CLP's are like WD-40 for guns, Sure there's better, but you can't really screw up using it.
Unless you literally can't (no tools), it's usually cheaper to nake your own lower. Aero Precision lower, a Lower Parts Kit, and Buffer Tube. Keep to Mil-Spec despite what people might tell you. You could also go the route of an Anderson lower if you want cheaper. Upper is whatever floats your boat (Aero, PSA, whatever), just don't forget you'll also need an optic, magazines, and possibly furniture.

Shit, I didn't see the euro part. Yeah stick with the Aero Precision Kit, eurofren. They're a better company IMO.

I'm fucking in love with the m1 garand, I have the money to buy one, but I'm also a wimp that already has a hard time taking the recoil of a K31 rifle.

how harsh is the recoil on the garand using normal loads? what physical exercises are good for taking recoil without being a bitch? Is it just a matter of shooting a ton and getting used to the pain and losing your flinch reflex?

Not bad just make sure you know how to shoulder a rifle. Time on range practicing correctly is how you get rid of flinching.

Yeah, we don't have the freedoms to just start manufacturing shit. Thanks for the answer though, I'll be honest I think Stag's logo is dope but at the end of the day I want the best quality for the money.

I like stag, they make quality, also appreciative of their push to get AR's into CT citizen's hands before they got banned there. Thanks Stag.

K

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I hear you, it sucks when niche manufacturers go down and there's nothing good on the market to replace them.
Well, build up some bolt tools and make some practice rivets. You can likely refine the head shape with a file or dremel to get them more dome-like. It'll probably take longer, but if you're only making a few that won't matter.

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nah, sorry.
bc I don't think attaching directly via the sling swivel allows you to rotate left to right. Please correct me If I'm wrong

Thank you user

To be clear, the stock swing stud does not rotate as it is screwed into the stock. this mount adapter does allow for this though. Hopefully I'm not being a big retard about this.

How does one determine the length of a shotgun barrel? Is it from the muzzle to the place where the round actually sits like A-B, or is it to the actual end of the piece like A-C?

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So I am looking for a trigger for my AR-10 and I was wondering about a two stage...I've never shot with one. It's between the Geissele ssa-e 2 stage or the ssp single stage. Are 2 stages where it's at for some light precsion work?

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>getting used to the pain
>of shooting 30-06
Dude, jesus christ. Buy some dumbbells and do everything. Fortunately for you the M1 is a heavy rifle.

It swivels the same either way, the rail has nothing to do with traverse, either the bipod has it or it doesn't. With all Harris bipods the traverse is built in, you just shove the rifle and one leg buckles slightly to allow it to traverse. Swivel is built into the bipod base, the one in your pic has a knob on the back so it is a swivel model, I assume a BRM-S. Loosten that nut, swivel the gun and tighten the nut. Most people leave the nut at a tension point where you can bully the rifle to the angle you want but it's still tight enough to hold it in place while firing. Usually that position requires more torque on the
nut than you can get from the knurled knob so people use extended levers or "pod loks" to get more clamping power.

I don't see any swivel mechanism on your rail or rail adapter, so it's serving no purpose. The rubber pads on the bipod should not move on the stock of the gun at all, the base always stays tightly stuck to the stock. If it's moving, it's not installed correctly. Swivel and traverse are functions of the bipod itself, not the mount.

I have the same rifle and bipod. I also recommend replacing the knob with a lever, it's faster and more powerful than the knob, which you may end up struggling with. But probably best to shoot the rifle awhile first so you know what you're doing and why you'd want that upgrade.

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It depends on the trigger. In the case of the two you outlined, you want the SSA-E 2 stage. Most single stage triggers have creep, as does the SSP (I have one, pic related), which you absolutely do not want for precision. A 2 stage has takeup for safety but once the takeup is removed and you're holding the trigger at the wall, it's supposed to be an extremely crisp break. Some single stages like is describing or the TriggerTech units have no takeup or creep, but that's very rare in AR triggers. Geisseles are not like that.

I've had lots of AR triggers and if you're looking at the SSA-E I'd suggest the Larue MBT instead. It's less than half the price and I like the aspects of that trigger better. It has less chance of creep (Jizzleys can have sporadic creep and weak walls in my experience), it has a much more defined wall and I like the semi-flat, machined shape of the MBT shoe better than the cast, rounded G. I've had 3 SSA-Es and currently have 2 MBTs and the MBTs are crisper. In my experience.

I think a lot of people who describe Geissele triggers don't really know what they're talking about or don't know what makes a trigger good, so you get some guy coming from a GI trigger and woah this Jizzley is the best thing in the world! But really it's not, and it's quite overpriced.

imo, not an expert, take with a grain of salt, I'm just a guy with some things.

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Damn. That's alot cheaper. Sounds like it's worth a try.

Redpill me on the .405 Winchester, is it a good round? What's the availability like? I really want to get an 1895 and Roosevelt larp

>trash lowers

cringe.

what is tab?

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Mark Larue is a dickhead supreme, but the price is a middle finger to Bill Geissele so in this case it works in our favor.

Looks like you forgot to post a pic? Give it another go!

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It holds the folding stock in place when folded.

spasibo

gold, though i just got one and let me tell you to just get the hypertouch. the gold has a lot of creep and it fucking wobbles though idk it thats because its a drop in, its my rop in i got. i honeslt feel like i wasted 300 bucks htough it does look nice

What is best value for the money 1911 for someone's first 1911? I do not mean what is the poorfag just as good option, but something solid without the Dan Wesson cost. Think like the BCM of the 1911 world.