Mineral oil USP is all you need to lubricate guns and prevent rust. Anything else is an overpriced, smelly carcinogen

Don't use the bottle that says bore cleaner, use the bottle that says gun oil.

Wrong OP, there's a gallon of food grade mineral oil that's way cheaper than what you posted.

>pays 10000% premium for a small bottle of mostly kerosene with some perfumes and additives to break down copper

>You don't need all those detergent additives for you gun.

>you don't need anti wear additives and detergents that keep fouling from sticking to surfaces and making it easy to clean

You want all that stuff.

>$6 vs $4 bottle of 3 in 1
>10000% premium
You suck at math. Bad.

>brings up totally different product from his initial claim

you are mentally ill.

Wow a totally different product that sells for the same price when the price was the factor being argued. Or are you merely pretending for (You)s?

>Hoppes is a solvent, not a lubricant
Come again nigger?

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I use CLC to clean. And CLC oil to lubricate. Sometimes the Remington wipes. Bur they honestly suck. And they are exspensive. .49c per wipe. Shit adds up quick. I have found a damp soft paper towel of good quality wipes really well.
Just dry it off when done. Those facny cleaners dont really do anything. Only a harsh copper cleaner is going to deep clean the rifle grooves. Wipes just go right over it

>uses CLP

/shrug

>not using brake parts cleaner as a solvent and full synth motor oil as lube

Motor oil dries and the remainder gums up after a couple months, and always smells like death when heated up.

I used to swear by it but it's not good for guns. One could argue that froglube is only a bit worse and that's the absolute worst thing possible. Motor oil has similar properties except only a bit of it remains and gums up, froglube just becomes glue.

okay but serious question:
I have a mix of rem-oil, full synthetic penzoil, and PRO LUBE II ( basically mil spec mil-prf-32033 automatic/small arm nato spec lubricant ) in the little oil thing in my g3 cleaning kit. it's about 1/3 of each oil. am i fucked for mixing them up? the gun hasn't rusted, gummed up, or failed yet.

Rem oil is just mineral oil cut with water.

My guns lubed with motor oil are wet years later, every gun oil I've used has evaporated away quicky it's to thin, but I am using 20w so maybe thats why.

i can believe this because it feels and performs like it. not sure if im just gonna run straight military spec oils like mil-prf-32033 and stop fucking with the cheap stuff

>oil
>water
You're gonna need a surfactant in there my boi.

I'm using OW-20, haven't tried any other ones. Should I try something thicker? Looking for something that can last years.

I'll just leave this here because nobody in this thread knows anything
grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

>literally mineral oil

I use ballistol, isn't it just 100% mineral oil?

That stuff is just overpriced mineral oil. You are paying for the brand name.

A whopping $5.45.

We can all disagree on things but frog lube is the worst thing ever for guns

it's not mineral oil.

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so moblile one is dog shit then?

why is it so difficult for you fucks to count to 2

hoppes makes both a solvent and a lubricant, which are two separate products

this retard's argument is like saying heinz isn't a mustard

I'll never buy any hoppes products on the count of them selling basically paint thinner as a gun cleaning product. Newsflash retards: most guns have paint on them...

When my first daughter was being born the doctor used mineral oil to help lubricate the baby coming out. I asked her what was that stuff she poured all over and that's what she said.

Heinz is ketchup you dumb shit

Why wasnt your females bussy fluid enough.

So what? Is your gun made of babies?

"Rancid" sounds like a nasty word, but it isn't always as bad as it sounds. You've probably had rancid olive oil before and never thought twice of it. Some people even prefer rancid olive oil. A rancid oil will still perform its function when used as lubrication.

it's just yellow vinegar

0w20 is too thin for firearms
Better than no line but not optimal and it will seep and run

I just use hoppes to lube and rubbing alcohol to clean.

Ed's Red. The lanolin is a bonus and keeps my hands nice and soft.

This! DIY Ed's Red and Mobil 1 for oil.

No, his wife's pussy is a gun that shoots out babies

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mah nigga. Non detergent 30 weight oil user here. 2 bucks a quart at Wally Mart. In the summer months I like bar and chain lube. It's the slickest shit ever but gets sticky in cold weather.

looooool

Skip the paper and use clean cotton rags

I use qtips, cotton balls, used diabeetus test strips (thin and firm with edge = good for hard scraping, wont damage finish), and pennzoil synthetic. No issues.

i cant, ive got a glock. :/

Just because it says "oil" doesn't mean it's the best choice to lubricate metal parts. Mineral oil is intended to lubricate your bowels. It also works as a food safe preservative for wood cutting boards. There are more lubricious oils designed to adhere to metal at high temperatures and high velocities that are better for lubricating your gun.

where have you been?
>fireclean is canola oil
>ballistol et. al are mineral oil
>some random brand is literally just repackaged household cleaning solution
>froglube is coconut oil or some other edible food
anything seems to work apparently

fact posting user is right

>not just wiping off your parts with bits of napkin or tissue until the soot is gone then putting them back in the gun

>anything seems to work apparently

Nah. Vegetable based oils gum up under heat and evaporate over time.

What makes Eezok so good?

Automatic Transmission Fluid works great as both a cleaner and a lubricant. The detergents help break down carbon deposits and can then be wiped off and another coat of ATF applied for lubrication. The stuff is sticky and high temp resistant and the detergents in the oil help prevent carbon from building up in the first place.

Go put that in the freezer overnight and tell me you still want that on your guns.
So much this, Fireclean / Froglube / etc. all have had issues with working well at first, but becoming gummy and nasty over time, something petroleum based oils don't seem to have a problem with. At least use motor oil if you're going to be a cheap ass and think you're sticking it to the man, even the DoD suggests this in weapons manuals if normal lube isn't available.

Incredibly nasty chlorinated solvent is what. One whiff will put hair on your chest. For rust prevention though, stuff works.

This rinds me, I still need to try Tri-Flow on my guns. It'll be hard to test since all of my stuff is newer and most of it will run fine even when neglected, though.

I have corrosion-x but lately I have been using CLP or ballistol

Doesn't that eat bluing?

>almost costs 3 times more than Kroger mineral oil for nothing

You are retarded. I'm not explaining what he said but feel free to try rereading it for an hour to figure it out.

thats some pretty light stuff, that might be thinner then some gun lubes even, It's even debatable in the car community if you should use 0W-20 at all, it's to thin and causes increased wear in all but the coldest of climates/conditions.

I want this combined with a lubrication and cleaning test. Figure out which is best in each category and which is all around best.

Rem oil BTFO

LARD

This is what you’re looking for.
dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
You’re wrong

I'm gonna go throw my rem-oil bottle into the trash.

Just because its bad doesn't mean its worthless bro. Are any of those other oils scentless?

Water works.

Rust is just a jew myth to sell you oil.

What about WD-40?

>he posts the wrong thing of mineral oil
jesus OP. It's so easy to flex on retards who buy commercial gun cleaning products but you are even dumber. I guess thats why you felt the need to flex.

What about a lithium grease for lube? Like White Lightning?

I use it on every frequently removed nut/bolt so I always have tubs or tubes laying around and it's too easy to put some on slides or other contact points. Mostly milsurp, just oil for polymers.

I use Red N' Tacky on my M1 Garand

>google.com/search?q=heinz mustard&client=firefox-b-1-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjF5ofavtbkAhWpGTQIHTHcBtoQ_AUIEigC&biw=1600&bih=786

What do you mean? I buy the Kroger brand bottles for $2 btw

Who knows. Amniotic fluid was low in both pregnancies.

I use that in the raceways of my old bolt guns.

100% this

Anything that says laxative on it has some bullshit additive you don’t want
>source : my asshole

Tri-flo is the best one imo

Anything that says laxative on it has some bullshit additive you don’t want
>source : my asshole

Take the 3-In-One pill.

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3-in-1 sucks
it attracts grime and gets gunky af

smells good, but is total crap, gets gunky, and eventually hardens.

>gets gunky
And? Every decent oil does. I lube all my guns with it. Zero failures.
>hardens
if your oil hardens you need to shoot more.

I like it because it's incredibly low viscosity and flows into just about any crevice between parts. but yes it is incredibly nasty stuff, don't use it without solvent compatible gloves.

it gets gunky because the volatile elements in it evaporate and the remaining oil is much more viscous. See also: penetrating oil, WD-40

I'm not sure if I've ever seen such reckage

Mineral oil is made from petroleum.

I use mineral oil on a rag to wipe down my boomer blued guns with. It does very well for that and I don’t worry about skin absorption of solvents or additive packages in more high tech lubes.

But for possible high temp scenarios in semi autos, or high friction areas in guns I usually go with a few drops of CLP or any other major gun oil or Mobile one.

No one ever disproved me so I guess I'm right