What are the differences be LPKs?

Are there really any crazy differences between a 60$ LPK and a 120$ one?

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Are you talking LPK less trigger group?

Doesn't matter to me, but for the sake of discussion lets say the kits come with trigger group and all the basics, i know some triggers and better for different things, but in terms of milspec, are these kits varying in any quality in any radical amount, or is it similar to lowers where they mostly come from the same group of manufacturers?

The minor parts like the springs, detents, mag catch, etc, are all the same.

Either major parts may be missing (like no trigger group), or the major parts like the trigger may be of varying quality. For example, GI spec trigger vs. aftermarket trigger. Standard safety vs. ambi safety, etc.

If the parts are all milspec then no, they aren't varying in quality any appreciable amount.

I guess what my concern is, is what LPK is the best, i get mixed opinions saying BCM is the best, better than colt bla bla bla, and then I hear that PSA lower parts kits are just as good. I just want the truth.

he doesnt use match grade springs and detents
pleb

I just want a LPK that lasts a long ass time, almost forever, there any kits like this?

IME there is zero difference regarding the small parts like I mentioned in .

If you just want GI spec parts then buy whatever's the cheapest. If you want to go from there I'd advise buying a very basic kit (no trigger, grip, etc.) and buying those additional parts individually to suit your needs. Which ones are "best" depends on your specific application. I wouldn't go putting a benchrest trigger on a defensive weapon, for example.

save for the trigger group, the bits are so cheap it doesn't matter.
>oh no my safety spring is wearing out
>guess I'll just get a new one for 5 cents

above a certain price range they are all the same. 60-90$ theres a limit to how good a milspec trigger can be.
on the other hand 50 and under are questionable all a of em will function but theres a fuckload of variation.
psa isnt consistent in what they sell
the 49$ lpk you bought in 2013 and the one you bought in 2019 are not the same. they function but stuff like pins and springs are different colors or finishes. theres no predictability in that. ive bought 5 lpks from them with like 1-2 years between purchases and none of them are the same. all of them work but some were better than others.triggers range from decent to ugh.whoever they sourced parts from that year is what you get.

>LPK that lasts a long ass time
That’s any of them. Just keep the springs and detents oiled

If I want something more consistent then who should I go to? Like if I want to build 16 rifles or more I want them all to work the same. What are some good lower parts kits for a good defense rifle?

>some were better than others
In a very noticeable way?

With oil or grease? Does it matter, heard grease allows for carbon build up

I'd use grease on the detents.
They're down inside tiny little holes; there's not much worry about carbon (or anything else, for that matter) getting down in there.

A lower is a lower. You want your precision in the upper, BCG, barrel, etc. upper receiver parts. A good trigger is also important.

Only difference you may see with an inferior lower is a little jiggle between upper and lower but that doesn't affect longevity or performance at all.

Trigger can be the big difference.

You can also get enlarged or ambidextrous controls like bolt release, mag release, and safety selector. Pistol grip might be a Magpul or other non A2 style. If you are including buffer tube and stock, there's that too. Some have gone crazy with takedown pins. I've seen hollowed titanium pins to shave that weight down even more. Most of those are sold as individual parts, but sometimes as part of a kit.

As said, a mil-spec kit is a mil-spec kit. Trigger quality may vary between them slightly, but that's it.

You don't have to worry about parts wearing out in the lower. Maybe losing them during assembly, but not wearing out.

I have one trigger from a kit that is particularly gritty, I think it was an Anderson. It still works, just not as smooth as others.

Even if you pay a premium, there is no guarantee on matching colors and finishes. Look at Colt.

Not much except how they're finished. I got a DPMS LPK and the retaining pins scrape the shit out of everything they touch, complete shit.

Aero was good, still a bit gritty but useable, the mag release clicks against the reciever a but but it'll probably chip itself away (break in) eventually.

BCM makes everything way too stiff, I have to jam my fingers into those pins to get them to pop out. Out of all of them I'd take the BCM if I had to decide again. It's a pain to push those pins, but probably useful in that my gun is less likely to open up during firing/use. Everything else is pretty well put together (it's also the only one I didnt put together myself, I don't advise building your own AR, that was a frustrating shitshow despite having all the proper tools. Too many fucking small parts that you have to install under spring tension with tweezers and shit, lots of shit flung out and got lost, receiver bent on the vise, etc.)

>Too many fucking small parts that you have to install under spring tension with tweezers and shit, lots of shit flung out and got lost, receiver bent on the vise, etc.)
You clearly didn't have the proper tools.

How old are you? Just takes patience.

You're shitting me right? The retaining pin for the front retaining pin installation was the most retarded shit I've ever eventually accomplished. Only with an AR do you have retaining pins for your retaining pins... and they're the fucking size of a fingernail. There's still one lost in my carpet somewhere.

The gas tube retaining pin was dumb too. It's microscopic and you have to A) hold the rounded gas block in place and keep it from rolling, B) hold your hammer, punch, and the tiny pin in place at the same time, and C) make sure it all lines up while your smashing away at it. Then when it's done you get to figure out how to line up your gas block hole with the hole on your barrel, and attach it with 1/8 inch of a screw and superglue. The whole apparatus just doesn't seem that secure but that's a separate issue. If you can buy one assembled by people with experience, do it. It doesn't cost that much more, the time/frustration it saves is worth it.

There's some things that can get upgrade.
>trigger pins get antiwalk or antiroll features
>trigger guard is more glove-friendly
>ambi controls
>your mom lubed them
>different trigger springs/parts
You have to look at the contents of the LPK.

>The retaining pin for the front retaining pin installation was the most retarded shit I've ever eventually accomplished. Only with an AR do you have retaining pins for your retaining pins... and they're the fucking size of a fingernail. There's still one lost in my carpet somewhere.

I don't have a problem doing them without tools, but then again I've been building R/C models and other delicate fiddly crap for a many years before I ever fucked with an AR.

Main reason I called you out was because all the shit you described happens when you don't have the right tools. There is a special tool for installing the detents on the takedown and hinge pins.

>>gas block roll pin
There is a special punch for this as well; it retains the pin so you don't have to hold the pin separately.

>>I bent my receiver
Again, you didn't have the right tools. Use a reaction rod to hold the action and barrel in place when you torque the barrel nut or muzzle device.

I can totally understand not wanting to do it if you don't feel like it. Or not wanting to spend the money on the tools. But don't fucking claim that it's a pain in the ass if you have the right tools because that's a load of shit.

eh, Ambi isn't an improvement.

How many have you put together?

It doesn’t matter. Just be consistent for compatibility.
Oil might be a little easier because grease usually needs full disassembly to properly apply.
If you are regularly doing that, you will lose all the pieces way before they fail.

Do i just put a few drops of oil on all the non firing parts?

>The retaining pin for the front retaining pin installation was the most retarded shit I've ever eventually accomplished

Without the right tool, you're not wrong. If you plan on doing this again, get one of these:

midwayusa.com/product/1007370226

The way I do it is to put a few drops of oil on the moving parts and a barber brush then just brush everything after cleaning it with solvent, let it sit for a while then wipe all the extra oil off with a clean rag.

You clean it with solvent first before oiling? What do you use? Rubbing alcohol?

>not wanting to spend the money on the tools
There's a lot of tools in that case, and you wouldn't be ahead any money doing it yourself if you're going to buy ALL the perfect tools. My biggest gripe was the goddamn barrel nut wrench. I had to use a wrench attached to a torque device attached to the fucking retarded nut wrench itself, then torque it down to 80 ft/lbs to get the hole to line up so the tube could pass through. Ended up bending the upper in the process, and the barrel nut was marred to shit. It was a Colt brand one but apparently they're all made of pot metal aluminum.

You do you but I'm not playing clown mechanic ever again. No other parts kit has been so ridiculous to assemble.

Hoppes Elite Solvent most of the time
Non-chlorinated brake cleaner if it’s bad.
Gotta oil it really well after brake cleaner.

yes incredibly noticeable. if its just 2 you dont notice but with a larger spread separated by years its telling.
in terms of triggerpull and parts roughness/burrs
one had a out of spec disconnector that was fixed with a file
if i bought them all at the same time theyed probably be identical but what psa has sold in the past and what they sell now is not the same. hard to say if its an improvement or degrading but it isnt the same.

>safe space
>triggered
>full libturd
I would buy it if they changed it to
>ALWAYS
>I WANNA
>BE WITH YOU

I took people's advice and assembled my lower with my hands inside a large plastic bag. That way when a detent slips and shoots out it doesn't go flying across the room, the bag catches it.

That's so pleb tier. Just make plebs do it.

Wish I'd thought of that, because I absolutely had to go pin and spring fishing a few times. If my floors weren't laminate I'd have lost all of them. Got some more use out of a few esoteric tools, though.

Ever see someone post a pic and their safety selector is on "fire", but its at about 11 o'clock instead of 12?
That's a $30 lpk.

I lock myself in the bathroom.

>There's a lot of tools in that case, and you wouldn't be ahead any money doing it yourself if you're going to buy ALL the perfect tools.
Yes, that's what I said.

>>I had to use a wrench attached to a torque device attached to the fucking retarded nut wrench itself
So, in other words, you didn't have the right tools? Why did you lie and said you did?

>Ended up bending the upper in the process
Again, that's because you didn't have the right tools. If you were using the reaction rod then you wouldn't have bent a damn thing.

>apparently they're all made of pot metal aluminum.
No, you just didn't have the right tools.

>You do you but I'm not playing clown mechanic ever again. No other parts kit has been so ridiculous to assemble.
Do whatever you like, just don't make the claim that they're hard to assemble when you have the correct tools. They're a hassle when you *don't* have the tools.