Light primer strike

I'm having issues with a model 37 steelbilt 12 gauge from the early 1900s.
I cleaned up the action and got the parts smooth, but it has a 10% reliability with 12 gauge shells.
If I use a sub caliber insert (.410,9mm,45,20 gauge) it fires reliably 100% of the time.

Should I order a new firing pin, or should I just replace the hammer spring.

Pic related is gun

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You should be able to tell if the firing pin needs replacement by observing how far it sticks out from the breechface, or if the point is damaged at all.

Theres a pube in your grease, duhh

Yeah push the hammer forward with the action open, you should get like half centimeter. If you see that much you need a new spring, not surprising if the one in there is stock.

Yeah poor travel length.
I'll buy a new assembly.
Ty.

Definitely a new assembly is required.
Looks like they come pre-assembled with pin and spring

This is maximum.
Definitely need a new pin.
Ty guys

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I agree, looks a little short.
If you're going to replace the pin I'd go ahead and replace the hammer spring while you're in there. If they come as a set that's perfect. Due to the age of the gun it's likely that the hammer spring may also be weak, so it makes sense to replace it too.

Maybe fully clean it then try again? I mean get that firing pin out and get all the rust off every surface.

God damn looks like you could use a brass bristle brush to clean that up some more.

A BIGASS rotary brass brush or a complete strip and hit it with some acid or electrolysis.

Fuck that's overkill, no need to break out the power tools or acid, jesus. Just coat with CLP and scrub it with a brass or phosphor bronze brush to remove the crud. Maybe cold blue it afterwards for a small amount of protection.

Before firing this you might want to check if the chamber is designed for paper or plastic shells. The earlier guns were made for paper shells and generally have shorter chambers so if you want to fire plastic shells which are longer you may need to lengthen the chamber with a reamer.

Ty all for the good answers. Can't wait to try.
Will clean it good and if problem persists will get new hammer and pin assembly.

I have my grandfather's 20 gauge IJ champion that was in the same condition as OP's shotgun. Any brass brush wont do any damage to steel or bluing so its great for removing rust. I used a bit of acid paste and steel wool to get rid of the rust on the surface because I was a noob and didnt have anything better. Acid in small amounts is acceptable for guns but dont soak for more than a day (thats with a diluted acid) and dont let it in any cracks. The best method is electrolysis. That wont damage the steel at all and it will remove rust very efficiently but a brass brush will be needed afterwards. Dont expect the previous finish to be left either way. I'll post results in a minute.
Worst case if your firing pin isnt clogged and its really clapped, you could probably replace it yourself if youve got some steel and tools. Sorry if im sounding condescending here OP im sure you already know most of this stuff but it might be useful for lurkers too.

Hope you don't blow yourself up! You might take a look at

I mean don't leave any acid in cracks. Acid should just be used if you don't give a heck about whatever tool you're using it on. This is my gramps gun after I used naval jelly, steel wool, and very fine sandpaper. Ik its a shit image but I can't get another.

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Thanks bro
Heres a pic of a lock plate before electrolysis and a brass brush scrub

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that actually looks about right, take the stock off and there should be a screw to screw tighter, gib da hammer more springness

Same plate all cleaned up. Electrolysis should give minimal if any damage to the steel underneath. Acid doesn't do much either but its still WAY worse than. Electrolysis

Attached: P_20190808_180449_vHDR_On.jpg (2160x3840, 1.2M)

This one was done with no steel wool or sandpaper btw, nothing abrasive to the steel itself. The orange tint near the cone is just from a brass brush.

No it's fine, I fired 40+ 2 3/4 shells and some slugs from it.
My problem has been light strikes.

I'll try that first

Or, instead of doing some pain in the ass shit like that and wasting perfectly good materials. He could try rust bluing it by leaving it in a steam chamber. You can make a steam chamber with a cardboard box and a humidifier

Hey user is the mouse still alive?

You could play a form of Russian Roulette with that piece of shit.

soaking it in vinegar will also work, to an extent.