Shotgun help

I don't own a shotgun and I don't know much about them so I need some help picking one. I'm supposed to go quail hunting in a few months. I've always like the Auto 5 but will it cycle steel birdshot? The place I'm going requires steel.

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Yes, the auto 5 will cycle steel shot, but, be careful about which one you buy. Older auto 5s have barrels that'll get damaged by steel

There is a page on Browning's website talking specifically about this.
browning.com/support/frequently-asked-questions/can-i-shoot-steel-shot-in-my-browning-shotgun.html

From what I understand:
Much of the time that you see a used A5 for sale at a store for reasonable money it is specifically because it is an older model that cannot fire steel shot without damaging the barrel, so it is no longer usable for bird hunting. They are still good for busting clays of course, but not what you're looking for. You can always get a basic modern pump-action for very little money and just use that.

A5s are very cool, but just buy a cheap pump action if you aren't big on shotguns and are getting this for a trip. You'll never have any regrets with a $250 Mossberg 500.

>will it cycle steel birdshot?
Why the hell not? Cycling is based on inertia, meaning momentum of the round which is the same for steel and lead. Shotguns have a wide variety of loadings but they are all comparable mass.

Worst case scenario give it a try and if it wont cycle automatically cycle it manually and get the round out.

Btw is that you in the picture baby? ASL

I'm not a poorfag so pass and I would like a gun for trap/skeet, I've borrowed friends guns like 5 times.

My thought was that since birdshot is lower pressure than buck or target load it might have trouble cycling

It'll cycle no problem. Trouble is it will shred the barrel from the inside out.

I see. So I can buy an older A5 but I would have to also buy a new production barrel to shoot steel shot

It's worth noting that you can buy an old A5 and a new barrel

thats not her hand, is it?

Yes.

>I'm not a poorfag
>looking for used A5's
just buy an M4 and cycle anything you put it in then retard

>tfw no emo scene gf

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That feeling should have passed away 10 years ago, you massive bitch

>commits suicide with your gun

>Not buying an A5 in order to Cobain yourself.

Your shotgun has only one factor that's going to matter without splitting hairs over dimensions, fitting, etc. : the choke of the barrel. What's more important that your gun is your ammo. A full duck/goose loaded 12 gauge shell will tear a quail all to hell. A more reasonable choice would be a 20 with a light dose of lead birdshot, which transfers the enrgy better, and patterns better than steel under most circumstances. Steel shot is only required for waterfowl, barring some state law.

If you don't own a shotgun, the best advice is to go with a cylinder bore barrel, as long as you can get it. The reason being is that you can use slugs without pressure peaks due to swaging under a tight choke, and the length is going to greatly affect your accuracy (long sight plain = reduced margin of error due to sway). The action (semi, pump, break) can be anything you like. I prefer pumps and doubles.

I miss 2010

Mossberg 500 never did anybody wrong

This.
Or an 835 Ultimag for turkeys/ducks/geese + an aftermarket rifled slug barrel for larger critters.

Wait is this really a problem!? I was gonna take my grandpa's old single shot with built in full choke from the 60's out goose hunting next weekend

Post her feminine penis.

This completely, OP may not be a poorfag but he is an idiot

Get a pre-1980 Ithaca 37, you'll love it

Only people who like having a dick in their hand all day want an Auto-5.

If you MUST get a recoil-operated autoshucker, get a Remington 11-48.

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>My thought was that since birdshot is lower pressure than buck or target load it might have trouble cycling

Hunting ammo is more powerful than clay target ammo. It will cycle fine. Just done fire steel shot unless the gun's choke is rated for it.

you are stuck in 2006

>18.5 inch barrel
>bird hunting
>clays
Found the retards who don't shoot.

OP, get a minimum 24" barrel, for clays a 30" barrel is best.

You guys don't know shit about Auto 5s and are trying to give advice on them? Kill yourselves, thanks.

OP, there are friction rings on the magazine tube that act as "brakes" for the recoiling barrel. You set the rings up one way for light recoiling loads (called 'low brass' in that time) and heavy recoiling loads (then referred to as 'high brass'). Of course today the high/low brass monikers aren't always indicative of the power rating of the cartridge, so it's up to the user to know the amount of recoil his cartridge will produce and set up the rings properly... either for more 'braking' or less.

This is done by locking the action back, unscrewing the magazine cap, removing the forearm and barrel, and positioning the rings as shown in this pic.

The pic is sized so you can print it out, cut it to size, and glue it inside your forearm, if you choose to.

^^^ THAT is how you give advice on this board.

Class dismissed.

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