/akg/ Ak General

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I'm probably younger than you

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Where to cop them stickers senpai?

What are some quality used Aks to look for for the money?

read the pastebin you stupid nigger

its like 2 years out of date....there are also way more Aks floating around than listed

Used AKs are almost never a good bargain.
Get a cugir variant.
The paratrooper models are currently going for 600

lol

>setting up and tearing down all those barricades
How many fucking bays was that run in goddamn

there are none unless you get lucky, buy a WASR, WBP, or Arsenal

Should be getting my 4x Monday

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This has got to be the most autistic $90 I've spent. Anyone have any idea where I can find those weird as old Beryl scopes that will be literally unobtanium?

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but its beautiful

What am I looking st here? Is that a dust cover?

Hey I got a question for you guys. Does anyone have experience with this AK rail? amazon.com/Tacksport-Scope-Mount-Picatinny-Weaver/dp/B01LZ3TO76/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 It's only half the price of other AK rails and the reviews seem pretty good too. Though I want to make sure that everything is in order.

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If it's not zenit it's not worth it

It's the original Beryl rail before they started using weaver or picatinny rails. Someone in Poland had a very high IQ too and decided that the rail itself should be adjustable instead of the scopes. The scopes meant for this rail don't have any windage and elevation knobs.

I am not entirely sure why, but I've started collected wz. 96 parts. I'm seriously considering ordering a Pallad parts kit as well, then somehow converting it to 37mm so it's a flare gun instead of a DD. I don't think the Pallad is compatible with the usual 40mm grenades anyways.

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How do you guys get your buttstock in? About half a centi gap left and no amount of banging is closing it. Will putting in the screws close that last bit? And will I risk splitting the wood using a drill?

Anyone seen any arsenal underfolders? I want an underfolder for no good reason but can’t seem to find one anywhere. My experience with my arsenal 5.45 is great but idk if it’s worth paying the extra for the underfolder.

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i saw a sam7 uf somewhere

I saw a SAM7UF with wood furniture for $1900. I’m tempted to buy that one but I feel like the ones on backorder on brownells for $1200 is a better deal. But I have no idea when those will come in and I may be moving in 3 months

manga name?

anyone remind me where to get the see through green 7.62x39 mags? i forgot which site they were on and cant seem to find again

It is complete. Not sure how I feel about this aluma hyde, it is a bit too shiny and chips kind of easily. Perhaps I should have waited longer despite the baking. Oh well, might repaint it later with something better.

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Well everyone right now is on backorder. Right now even WASRs are on out of stock in most places and the ones who do have them in stock are raising prices too. Regardless I guess because of that Texas guy's comments about confiscation, the election panic buy came early. Sucks but give it a couple months and we'll see a fresh set of imports come in due to demand on all AK variants. Hopefully at least. Regardless it doesn't spell good news on prices though since they will increase and are increasing due to the demand right now. There is even more demand on ARs but prices are staying good for them only because there is like a million AR makers while there are only a handful of good AK makers. Supply and Demand at it's finest.

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Honestly, a small gao between the end of the receiver and where the stock flares back out after the tongue is quite normal. Only time I've ever been able to get a stock fully butted up against the rear of my receiver, took alot of fitting on the tongue and alot of hammering and it bulged my stamped receiver just slightly. It's not worth it.

make one through a 3d printer. They sell filaments that are see through colors. Probably cheaper too.

Thanks. It's a 74 stock set I'm putting on my WASR. It looks really cool and it's BFPU from the Chechen wars. Really great beat up look. I know purists will hate me when I post it but I'm happy and that's all that matters.

Can confirm a small gap is just normal. I to have pushed one too far and damaged my stamped receiver.

The platform has some fitting issues due to the myriad of patterns and standards. But, its the main reason why I love AKs.

Are flat back MAK90 rear trunnions any different from standard eastern bloc fixed stock dealios?

It looks like you didn't spray it consistently. Maybe it could use another coat.

For what it's worth, I used an offbrand spraypaint on this rifle and it turned out fucking amazing. The brand is Premium, color is satin black, RP1013. I can't remember what store I bought it at and I can't find it now, even online, but it turned out great and has held up great too. I've done several two mag dumps and one or two 3 mag dumps and it hasnt bubbled or flaked at all.

It's over parkerizing, if that is relevant
pic related

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Maybe I'll get my girlfriend to do it lmao. I am shit at art.

My krink turned out very similar to yours, including the inconsistent brightness spots. I used the paint lauded by fudds on the AKfiles (Rustoleum professional semi gloss black). I really want to know what the gloss black looks like, because it is far too glossy for my taste. Once I can figure out where I bought that Premium paint from, I'm going to strip this Rustoleum off, prime with some etching primer, then repaint it.

I bet the glossiness has something to do with how inconsistent it turns out.

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Yeah you might be right. I went with semi gloss aluma hyde as well.

I've never gotten acceptable results with Aluma Hyde flat or semi-gloss, its horrible imo. I only use the flat black on low visibility small parts now, and it feels like texture paint even then. Duracoat was a game changer for me despite the limited shelf life and radically higher cost

It's not too hard man. I FUCKED up my wasr the first time I painted it.

If you redo it, try this.
Strip the rifle completely. Get some degreaser and clean all areas you plan on painting. I really don't do much more than spray it and wipe it with shop rags, works well.

Tape off the area where the dust cover is, the magwell, the FCG holes, the trunnion holes. If some paint gets in here its not a big deal. Plug the barrel very well, however. Stand your rear sight leaf vertically and wrap it in tape.

Hang the rifle from the port in the muzzle brake. Then follow the instructions on your spraypaint can autistically. The place most people fuck up with spraypaint is spraying too close or too thick. It is so much better to do several light coats than to do a few thicc coats.

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S A T I N

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While we’re paintfagging, hows the spraycan Gunkote that brownells sells?

To add to this, if you can blast the parts beforehand you'll get a much better result. I soda blast the parts 100% clean and never handle them with bare hands again. hang them, spray them thoroughly with brakleen or total prep, blow them dry, look for places where oil is weeping out from trunnions etc, respray until its truly degreased. Then you lay the paint patiently, following the directions to the letter. I even use a stopwatch between coats. Getting in a hurry toward the end throws away all the effort up to that point. The temperature and humidity will affect whether the paint dries mid-air and gives the part a crumbly finish.

>I can't remember what store I bought it at and I can't find it now, even online,
Try looking for Rustoleum Premium. if these are what you used.
They just say Premium, but they are a Rustoleum product.

homehardwarecenter.com/2574274/product/RUST-OLEUM-RP1013

ebay.com/itm/Premium-RP1013-Rust-Prevent-Spray-12-Oz-Satin-Black-/113624510754

in my totally professional shop monkey opinion you are spraying way too light/far away/quickly. You dont want to just dump the paint on, but when you spray from a can the solvents that keep the paint fluid are always evaporating. If you shoot from too far away they have already started to evap off enough that you get that orange peel finish spray can finishes are known for. As scary as it may be you need to move the can closer and move more consistently (slowly likely) with your coats. You want the paint to hit and then float and flatten out on the surface before is starts to get tacky. If you see a spot that is getting dimply, or even a run, and you notice it quickly enough you can go back over it again and flatten out the run/orange peel. This can go south really quick because you end up chasing a run, but with practice it works. Painting is a learned skill though, so you will really only get better with practice.

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That's exactly what it is. DESU I'm surprised at how well it's held up, even when the barrel is too hot to touch and the handguards are smoking

I really need a blaster. Just giving it a good degreasing has worked well for me, but you're 100% correct that good prepwork is worth just as much as good painting.

You are exactly right. I did do it pretty far away and quickly. I will try that thanks.

If money wasn't a problem, what is the best AK-47 7.62x39 one could get? Best = highest quality and dependability.

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A small gap is normal. If the tang is fully seated then so is the stock.

RK62

A 107FR would be good.

IMO all the Yugoslavian Aks I've handled have felt miles above any other country, so for best quality, I would say an M70 kit with a new US Chrome lined barrel assembled by a competent builder like Two rivers on a properly marked Childers receiver. You'll be out about $1300 depending on how much you got the kit for, but it would be a top quality rifle that will last forever.

Unless you buy a fuckin IO, Century US built rifle or Jim Bobs homemade headspace mystery machine, you're not going to see any difference in dependability between a wasr and an arsenal. Yeah, an Arsenal will be a little nicer, and its MADE IN LE RUSSIA so if that is important to you, absolutely spend more. If you just want a solid, accurate rifle, there is nothing wrong with a wasr and in fact, theyre very fine rifles.

But arsenal is Bulgarian.

Polytech Legend

Vietnamese early prodcution AKM-1 around 1960-1970

Note the RPK receiver

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I like his hat

Vietnamese TUL-1 around 1960-1970.

Note the AK Type 3 receiver.

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Also TUL-1, unknow production date.

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post yours

sam7

dat magazine tho

Interesting because I tend to be hesitant and hold the can back a bit. Thanks for the advice.

any real AK is dependable
nice is a misnomer in theAK world, ie romanian guns do everything you’d want an AK to do, and there’s something nice about being able to treat it rough
you’d have to weigh different aspects according to your tastes. Some of the milled Bulgarian rifle are very high quality but I’d rank lower because of their soul so to speak and features.

SAR, particularly those built later in 2001 and 2002. Check pawn shops. These original retailed around $350 IIRC people thought they were shitty. You might need to fix canted front sight. You’ll probably want to have the muzzle threaded and add a gas block with bayonet lug.

>Pallad
The underbarrel version (Pallad kbkg wz.1974) or the standalone underfolder version (Pallad-D wz.1983)?
Do the Pallad-D pls. I think Zasta is already on the way to doing the underbarrel one.
>I don't think the Pallad is compatible with the usual 40mm grenades anyways.
Correct
>Pallad grenade launchers are built around proprietary 40x47SR ammunition designed in Poland, which is not compatible with 40×46 NATO-standard ammunition.

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Finished my AK73 prototype build. Just need to paint it

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>what that handguard friend

just plain old RK-95 handguard

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...

>AK73 prototype
I've seen a few underflipper 74s but I've never heard them referred to as "AK-73s"
Any provenance to this? Either way nice rifle, it'd be cooler with a reverse dong imo.

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What the heck is that furniture

note the angular trigger guard and 45 degree gas block even though it's 5.45x39

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i recropped your pic. it was bugging me.

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could've done it to 1600x900

Yes those are characteristics of prototype AK74s. What of this underfolder?

So it's an AIMS-74 kit with an underfolder?

youre right, i just did it by aspect ratio.

good enough.

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hogue

This was my reference

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Anyone know where I can get a complete wood furniture set online for a reasonable price? Not looking for milsurp Russian wood, just something that will be strong and hold. I have a Polytech AKS-762 and I don’t want to destroy the original wood on the stock because it will lose resale value

Objectively correct and finn-based

Yes, that is a picture of a prototype underfolder AK74, what of the designation AK73?

i need a yugo

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Ok. But where'd you get "AK-73 Prototype" from?
I mean it's a nice clone, but where'd you get that designation? The AKFiles posts that claim that name are not references.

What is yall's opinion on the PSA AK's? Looking at maybe getting their AK that takes 5.56 AR mags when that comes out since I already have an AR.

I may have been incorrect about the designation, but here's another reference that I used that was made in '72. Along with the very early mags

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trash

Gross

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Why are they trash though? I've heard good things about their latest iteration of receivers.

proprietary parts, butter metal, out of spec guts

They're better, but there are still issues with general QC, and Robski lost his firing pin retainer at some point and had to use a toothpick to substitute.

The price difference just isn't large enough to justify not just saving up for a WASR or better quality build.

its the comfiest until someone comes along with silicon furniture