Pcbg

pcbg
why nobody make one
pc building pcpartpicker.com/

pcbg

Attached: 1533260869005.jpg (2048x1536, 1.41M)

Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/YCZ5iP5cu8g
pcpartpicker.com/product/Nv3H99/msi-optix-mag24c-236-1920x1080-144hz-monitor-optix-mag24c
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/KrcLpG
pcpartpicker.com/list/984VfH
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

The absolute state.

imagine the smell of this nasty kike

should i just enroll at a community college for a student ID?

i want to take advantage of these microcenter discounts and they're offering free courses

I recently got a 1080, and have been using a 40" 1080p TV as my monitor for a while now.
I'm thinking of maybe upgrading to 144hz or 1440p or 4k, or both in one monitor, not sure what I should grab though.
Most screens I've seen are around 27", and that feels a bit small to me, especially since I'm also going to use it for watching movies.

Anything you guys can recommend in regards to basically a large 144/1440/4k screen?
Budget is around $600

>get scammed for alot of money when trying to buy used parts
>police actually give a shit
>they found out where he lives
>it's a shithole

Feels great man, I love Norway

Also what the fuck's wrong with the OP? I guess it's nice to get rid of the amd shilling

I'm on a 1600 right now but considering upgrading to a 2700x. I have a B350 motherboard. How the hell does this work? If my BIOS is updated, will the 2700x run just like it would on a B450?

If not, I'll probably just jump over to Intel since my main use is gaming.

this probably wasn't meant to be pcbg and was just meant to be a thread complaining about where pcbg is which turned into pcbg

Yes.

Might as well wait for zen 2, rather than buy a new mobo.

Why are there no cases with good radiator support? Mounting them into fan slots is a shit option. Either they're warming up your case or they provide suboptimal cooling. There needs to be water cooling cases with waterworks compartments or the possibility of placing radiators outside the case

OP here, I specialise in making shitty threads when nobody else makes them. If you don't like my amazing quality then just make it yourself before I do

There is one by der8auer made for water I think, check it out.
Also They're not "warming up your case" or "providing suboptimal cooling", unless you completely fucked up the air coming out will be at most 2 degrees hotter than the air coming in, it was tested extensively, and it barely matters desu.
You should really look into the subject more before spouting retarded, uninformed opinions, user-kun.

Attached: grayons.jpg (534x589, 35K)

do you guys think the 10-series will get a price drop? was thinking of buying a gpu this week

If you're not too spooped by it look into grabbing a miner card, prices are absolutely ridiculous atm.
$350 for a 1080, $500 for a 1080ti, shit's bonkers.
They're all basically going mental due to 20 series coming out soon, and are trying to make back any money they can.

>buying miner cards
yikes

I could get a decent brand new 1070ti for $390, is that a good deal?

Mfw this OP is better than the previous amd shilling ones.

>radiators output 300W worth of heat
>it's only 2c difference it literally does not matter

Attached: 1525114671930m.jpg (963x1024, 82K)

Attached: 1530481515569.png (800x612, 234K)

I just bought a 144Hz (not gsync) to go along with my R5 1600 / GTX 1060. How badly did I fuck up?

Attached: 1503507433245.jpg (640x480, 148K)

As I said, only if you're brave enough.
I haven't heard of any bad experiences with those cards, and imo it all comes down to superstition.
It's a great value at a risk, and if you're not up for that then I can't blame you.
And with that sort of mindset I'd stay away from any used hardware, since the risk you're taking is about the same (again, imo).

I think so, I doubt prices will drop much lower, at best you could save another $50 on new cards, that is at least until stock doesn't run out.

That's right, the air is 2 degrees hotter AFTER absorbing all the heat from the radiator, your CPU, your VRMs and your GPU (even with water there's some regional heat left).
The subject has been extensively studied as I've said, your retarded superstitions mean nothing.
Provide ONE example of temperatures with rad in vs rad out being better than 2c (which at that point is barely more than margin of error).

That depends, do you like cs:go?

you done good lad no worries, I use a 144hz freesync with a 1060 as well and it works fine

if zen 2 comes out with an APU, what gpu do you think it will be comparable to if the 2400g is basically the same as a 1030?

>300W
>2c
You're being a fucking retard user and you know it

can't get max fps on demanding games on high, you can always just lower the settings though
well at least you're futureproofed, I guess

Can anyone give me a more powerful static pressure fan than Noctua's 3000rpm one?

>gets BTFO
>y-you're a r-retard
Eat shit cockfag.
Those 300w are not staying in your case, they're being blown, very efficiently at that, into your room.
If anything I'd be more concerned about your room heating up.
Air is a super shit thermal conductor, the 3 seconds it spends within your case are just not enough to noticeably heat it up.

Long story short, turning on your AC or opening a window will give you a noticeable difference in thermals.
Taking your radiator outside your case, will not.

Way too early for that user.
If they manage to get the vega shrink to 7nm in time working, then you might see that, if not, then it's probably going to perform about the same.
If they do it might actually bring pretty good performance.
How good?
dunno.

Says you, talking out of your ass. Supposedly you've studied this and yet you have zero proof for your retarded shit. 300 fucking watts user

>No arguments
>B-but you get BTFO!!1
Curry state of /gee/

Where should I buy my parts it im in the UK
Part picker loses value with the price differences being what they are
Like looking last night, a $450 card costing £500, cant budget like this

This gives some insight into it
youtu.be/YCZ5iP5cu8g
>inb4 jayztwoshekels
It's an alright video with solid enough methods of testing, it's not like he's actively shilling something in this particular one.

>provide arguments
>no arguments
>pajeet accusation out of nowhere
current state of Jow Forums

Im (re)building my pc, made a thread but no answers, pic related.

Attached: Screenshot_20180911-172552__01.jpg (1080x774, 138K)

Lets see...
PWM is easier to control through software, DC usually relies on knobs (was popular to have fan knobs on the frontside of your case in like 08).
Use the biggest fan you can generally.
Corsair commander mini/pro is pretty good as far as I heard, though I'd just use the fan headers on your mobo.
Dust filters ARE worth it, if buying a new case do look out for them.
Replacing the fan in your PSU?
You're more likely to get hit by a cap that hasn't drained yet than get any kind of better performance (power draw, efficiency, thermals, noise). Just forget about it.
I personally hate molex because it's hard to connect and very prone to shorting out and burning up, sata on the other hand is brittle af.
I'd take sata over molex any day though.

I feel like I haven't updated my PC in a while, what's the most cost effective upgrade I can do to squarely put myself in 2018ish territory? I really am not looking to build a whole new rig, but replace one, maybe two things and recycle them into a new-used computer for my brother.

Attached: speccy2.png (658x523, 40K)

Looks fine to me.
If you really want to, then nab a new GPU, since they're pretty cheap atm, you get what you pay for with pretty much anything (1070/ti/1080/ti).
Maybe CPU but it's not TOO bad, I'd wait for zen 2.
Maybe a bigger SSD for video games, prices are dropping steadily, and about to nosedive according to some sources.

What's your tech whore measuring there? One shitty fucking AIO, with 100W CPU? With measurements outside the case (not inside, which would be the relevant one). And the retard can't even run his system properly? I'm not gonna watch the whole thing because I can't stand listening to these fucking fortnite level techwhores, but user that's not even close to what I'm talking about here. Fucking hell user it's ok if you don't know shit about shit, you don't need to offer your shitty opinions on things you know nothing about

I was thinking about the video game SSD but for the time being I'm doing ok running the OS and recovery drives/important programs on the singular SSD... Yeah, there really isn't too much I can think to upgrade at this point that isn't in "fuck it I have money to burn" territory, I had the same thought about zen 2. I feel like I'm not getting ultra-silky smooth performance in some games but it isn't a killer. What's weird though is I gave this exact build list to my brother, then helped him assemble it, and couldn't get the rig to power on. He had to RMA the board twice and the ram twice. I was hoping to give him some known good parts but there's no point in fixing something that works...

What's a cheap AMD GPU (under $100, cheaper is better) that can run TF2 (lowest settings) at 1080p 120+FPS? I'm gonna be using a windows vm with passthrough for my GTX1070 for any games that are either particularly demanding or work poorly on Linux, but many games are neither and I'd like to play them natively if it won't cost too much.

What are the odds that Zen 2 will actually significantly increase single thread/core performance?

I love my Ryzen for everything except gaming. I have a 144Hz and it feels like 144fps is impossible on this thing. I would rather support AMD but it seems like Intel's superiority in single thread/core will never be beat.

2200G with 3000MHz dual channel RAM.

He measured intake and exhaust temperatures, which are the relevant ones here. The air inside the case (provided good airflow) will always be hotter than intake, and cooler than exhaust.
If you can't agree with this, then we can discard each others opinions.
Dissipating 300w is no different, considering you can't really reach 300w unless you're building a custom loop, in which case you'd be using more effective cooling area (bigger rad/more rads) so that you wouldn't saturate the loop.
Bottom line is as I've said air is a thermal insulator, it's just not in contact long enough with the radiators to noticeably heat up and effect your thermal performance.
You sperging out instead of offering any sort of argument only comes to prove that you're the one who doesn't know shit about shit.
Besides, if you knew anything on the subject you wouldn't be asking retarded questions like that on an anonymous Cantonese basket weaving forum.

Is that XP on the monitor? How can he stay calm?

lian li pc-011 dynamic

zen 2 will be on hpc process.

That's (mosrly) a CPU you mong

>The air inside the case (provided good airflow) will always be hotter than intake, and cooler than exhaust
Well no. If he doesn't have an exhaust radiator, then exhaust is a little cooler than air inside the case (it mixes with outside air). Depending on the setup, there may also be other ways for the heat to dissipate. Were the top fans his only exhaust?

For the rest of the shit, for a custom loop, it matters a lot. You obviously don't know shit about them, but the coolant can run up to 60c. If even half of that comes out the intake radiator (40c air instead of 20c) it can matter a lot, especially if you have a top mounted exhaust radiator (for top radiator, case temp is same as ambient). Of course, in this situation, the loop setup matters a lot. And mind you, that 300W is rated for components that aren't overclocked

Attached: 06.png (1153x823, 49K)

Just do the math retard. But I guess you can't since you are retarded so I will do it for you:
Assuming the typical 120mm fan moves 80m^3/h air @12V and you have 2 fans (1 in, 1 out), and volume of your case is 40L.
So your fans need 40*10^(-3) / 80 h = 0.5*10^(-3) h = 1.8s to completely renew the air in your case. In that time period, the energy your PC gives off as heat is
E = P*t = 300W*1.8s = 540J
Air density at 25 °C and 1 atm is 1.1839 g/L according to wikipedia, so 40L air weighs 47.4 g. Mass heat capacity c of air is 1.012 J/(g*K).
dT = E/(c*m) = (540)/(47.4*1.012) = 11.3 K
11.3 K, that‘s more than 2, you fucking imbecile.

Can I make something like optiplex 5050 but way cheaper? Even second hand is 700$ . I just need the lowest tdp possible white still being useful.

reeeeeeeee let me format you for fucks sake
any ideas as to why I can't initialize this new hdd?
>tfw the 2tb one is almost 6 years old and held together with tape but the brand new 1tb hdd is being a cunt

Attached: 188db79f8127eaaea63009f8c6ebd730.png (992x604, 47K)

So, I have a 6600k and a gtx970
I don't really want to change my mobo, would getting a 7700k be worth it?

My gpu/cpu usage is quite balanced in MHW, both going into the 90+%. So I guess just replacing the gpu would make the cpu bottleneck.

What do

alternatives to meshify at ~$100?

temps are important but i'd like less noise than i currently have

I'm planning to make this build, for games and some Illustrator/Photoshop editions

I think i should be fine with running most of the games on the current market, it doesnt need to be silky smooth to run stuff,

Any tips on settings or brands i should change?

Attached: Full HD settings PC.jpg (708x727, 96K)

1050 levels would be nice

Bump
One of yous has gotta be in the UK, how do you cope with these fucked prices, it'd have still fucked me off with these kike prices, but seeing parts that cost 2x as much for me to buy, fuck that fucking bullshit

>Announced over a year ago
>No release date
>No price
>No articles
There's just no good sff cases atm.

Attached: da4.jpg (602x620, 241K)

If you're running a custom loop and your water is reaching 60c you might as well kill yourself.
Honestly you shouldn't even be staying at 45.
If that's your initial assumption then you shouldn't go anywhere near custom loops.
>that image
I literally said ambient effects temps more than rad placement, what are you trying to say with that?
I'll give you the exhaust point though, personally I don't think the difference is going to be very large, but it does introduce an inaccuracy.
Definitely not enough to warrant sperging out at rad in vs rad out though.

Oh fuck, sure stumped me with your highschool math and 2 fan build.
If you're planning to cool a 300w loop with only that, then by all means, go ahead.
Otherwise run the numbers again, adjusting for the actual airflow you should expect.

Depends how cheap you can get it. You can try to wait for some bigger release when people start dumping their CPUs. Either when 9700k is out, or zen2.

don't get hung up on USA prices because everything is cheaper over there
that said, don't buy 'bleeding edge' tech if you don't absolutely need it

is playing games in 4k really worth £500 for a 1080 when for £500 you can build a 2400g build with 3200 ram that will be easy to upgrade later and still play games? 2400g plays the newest battlefield decently and the chances are you're going to be browsing Jow Forums and youtube more than gaming so again, why buy a 1080 if you don't have to?

>hurr durr I run 8 fans at low speeds cuz silent
and it's still more than 2 K

I'm usually the last person to say this, but get AMD.

Why's that? and Which CPU?

Attached: 1400653814259.jpg (1280x720, 43K)

2600 or 2700

Its been like 8 years, and have money and I wouldnt mind stepping up to 1440p, its just knowing im paying that extra for literally no reason is a knife in the guts
Tbqh the only things that will rack my prices up are the monitor and moreso the GPU which is what im really struggling
Got any suggestions for cards? Ill probably get a Ryzen 2600 (barely costs more than my trash i5 did years ago)

I'm actually running an AIO with two 140 fans, two 120 exhausts, and a 1080 with 3 90 fans, so yeah, hur dur I run 7 fans, if you're planning to run less on a 300w build then maybe you SHOULD have your radiator outside your build.
Like waaaay outside.
Like, so outside it's actually in the retailers storage.

Are there any AM4 mITX boards that aren't overpriced rice?

budget?

Thanks for the tips, Benchmarks seem similar, how about RAM for my choice?

Shit build and wtf is wrong with your font rendering?

>If you're running a custom loop and your water is reaching 60c you might as well kill yourself.
>Honestly you shouldn't even be staying at 45.
Obviously that's not something I'd want, but I've seen loops like that. The point still stands though
>>that image
>I literally said ambient effects temps more than rad placement, what are you trying to say with that?
You still don't get it, do you? You fucking retard, for exhaust fans the ambient temp is same as the case temp (since they suck out air from inside the case). And as we see, 5c change in ambient had about a 8c impact on the component. That's a lot

>Oh fuck, sure stumped me with your highschool math and 2 fan build.
>If you're planning to cool a 300w loop with only that, then by all means, go ahead.
>Otherwise run the numbers again, adjusting for the actual airflow you should expect
Well can you do your own highschool maths then? Even if we triple the airflow and assume linear temperature drop, that's still almost 4K. And that's only 300W, not accounting for overclocking and all the other components that are going to produce heat inside the case

I have the same monitor lol so comfy

get whatever 16gb (2 x 8) 3200 ram you can afford

Is it really worth getting 1440p instead of 1080p?

Attached: 1533049811527.png (250x250, 97K)

So I'm building a PC that's gonna be flexible for some upgrades,
I'm using an r5 1600 and 3000 ram.
Is getting a B450 a stupid idea? I'm mostly looking for ram compatibility and price.
>And maybe an rgb header

Attached: ba5.jpg (768x625, 294K)

depends what you mean by 'worth'
obviously a better display is a better display but 1080p is hardly shit
why would getting a b450 mobo be a bad idea

>exhaust fans
*exhaust radiators

Or I could just get 3200. Input would be much appreciated.

Dunno about the font, what would you improve about the build?

if you're gonna go above 1080p go straight for 4k instead of 2k. 2k is a bit of a meme desu

Attached: 1451782975051.jpg (1024x692, 397K)

AMD outperforms Intel in multimedia, sometimes for even cheaper prices. A 2600 or 2700 is fine, like user said. Preferably you get 3000mhz ram, ideally 3200mhz CL14. Also might as well get RX580 instead of the 1060, and then get this

pcpartpicker.com/product/Nv3H99/msi-optix-mag24c-236-1920x1080-144hz-monitor-optix-mag24c

Which is a 144hz monitor for only 20$ more, with double the refresh rate and freesync which will be awesome with an RX580.

Why not 2600

I'm only seeing people pair it with Ryzen 2 CPUs. For what I'm working with, I don't see the point in the +$20 for the r5 2600

>making a pc you want to upgrade later using a b350 motherboard in 2018
brainlet of the year over here
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/KrcLpG

>upgrading every 2 years
Brainlet of the century of here

So what you're trying to say is that in a two rad system, the second rad will suffer from the first rad heating up the intake.
But then we just ignore that the load is then split differently, and continue in our assumption that each will be cooling 300w individually (since the calculations were run for a 300w load)
Sweet.

If you want to go into big boy math you'd have to take into account the surface area of the radiator, and the thermal conductivity of (I'm assuming) copper, thus how much heat it will actually be putting out, and how much can actually be absorbed by the air.
Or you can just run a simple experiment...
OH WAIT, FUCK

pcpartpicker.com/list/984VfH

$300 seems like a pretty good price imo. I want to get a 144hz monitor as well for csgo but idk if it would be a bad idea. The 2200g seems to get close to 144fps on low settings

4k can't even hit 60fps lol

Attached: 1475261786951.png (387x720, 528K)

Only if you're poor lmao

300W seems like perfectly adequate heat load when you combine 150W from radiator and 150W from other components. If anything, I'd say it's underestimating it by quite a lot.

As for your big boi math, I could do that, calculate the turbulent flow heat exchange, but why would I? It's safe to assume that the intake radiator will deposit all of its heat inside the case. When the system reaches equilibrium, whatever goes in, comes out (out of the radiator, inside the case)

As for testing, how the fuck would I do that? I don't even have the proper case yet. Or you want me to take advice from some fucking youtube retard who can't even set up a fucking AIO? And you seriously take advice that fucking moron? No wonder you're finding this so difficult

Only if you turn the settings down to low, at which point, why even play at 4K, it looks like shit.

1080p at like 200-300 fps is the best way to go imo desu

Attached: 1480001267996.jpg (1920x1080, 393K)

I was aiming around 1.2 - 1.5k

So I installed my Noctua cpu cooler and decided to connect the low noise adapter as well. Hwinfo shows that the fan is rotating at around 1400rpm during idle. I checked the Noctua website and the adapter is designed for around 1300 rpm, but I there is still an audible "shoosh" jist like any other cpu cooler. Should I try adjusting the fan curve in the bios? Can it go lower than that?

Attached: noctua_na_src7_2.jpg (650x431, 28K)

Not buy a 8600K. Get 8400 or 2600(X).

I was trying to point to how if you're going to be splitting the load between two rads (3?) only part of it is going to be heating up the intake, and combined with adequate airflow, it's going to mean that the air is barely going to be heating up at all.
You (or the other guy) are also assuming perfect heat transfer between the air and the radiator, which is simply not true due to heat transfer coefficients, and duration of contact which is where your flow heat exchange comes into play.

Look, honestly I don't think you have much grounds for complaining about "sub optimal" cooling due to radiators being inside the case.
In my first post replying to you/him I literally suggested a case which I think will be optimal for what you're looking for, without hand made modifications, another user did too (Lian Li PC O11, which was designed with der8auer, a literal OC god).
If you really really want to, I've seen builds with the radiator outside, it's not too hard to do, you can look it up.

I'm just tired of arguing over this non-issue for almost 3 hours.
These are your options, pick one.
Or just keep complaining if you want.
Either way, I'm done.

Forgot to mention.
If you really want to go all out there's the Thermaltake Level 20.
It DOES have a watercooling compartment.

>PSU fan gets like super loud for no reason (when PC is idle, somehow it never happens when at load)
>raise the PC a little bit and bang it to the floor
>it instantly gets quiet again for some time

So I assume it's some problem with the fan's bearing, does any user have any experience with fixing something like that?
I would rather not replace that PSU yet. It isn't even that much of problem as banging it always works, but I don't think it's entirely healthy for the PC to bang it to the floor everyday.

If you're using an HDD you're bound to kill it with the bangs.
See if the PSU is still under warranty, most brands offer around 10 years, just get it replaced.
I can't stress how much I absolutely don't recommend opening up a PSU, since the caps inside can actually kill you, even if it's unplugged (think battery banks, except they'll discharge in a split second, frying you).
Either live with the noise, or replace it.

>I was trying to point to how if you're going to be splitting the load between two rads (3?) only part of it is going to be heating up the intake
Generally, the intake radiator will do more work than the exhaust (bigger delta T). I also don't think I can mount more than 2x 360. Most cases I've seen only have places for max 8 case fans
>You (or the other guy) are also assuming perfect heat transfer between the air and the radiator, which is simply not true due to heat transfer coefficients, and duration of contact which is where your flow heat exchange comes into play.
Are you familiar with basic physics? Heat is energy, and energy doesn't just disappear. It will dissipate to the system's surroundings, and since the loop is inside the case, the heat will dissipate inside the case. I could calculate your heat transfer coefficients, but the only thing that would tell me is what temperature it would reach before reaching equilibrium.

As for radiators interfering with radiators, as I'm sure you know, the heat exchange capacity depends on the temperature differential (delta T). That matters more especially if you want to keep the coolant low temperature. In addition to that, higher case temps might reduce the overall effectiveness of the loop (but this hard to take into account, I don't know how much heat is exchanged between air inside the case and hoses and waterblocks). All in all, it does seem to me that radiator placement really matters, for both case and loop temps

>Look, honestly I don't think you have much grounds for complaining about "sub optimal" cooling due to radiators being inside the case.
With all due respect, I'm just going to disregard your opinion
>In my first post replying to you/him I literally suggested a case which I think will be optimal for what you're looking for, without hand made modifications, another user did too
Yes, I appreciate the suggestions and I will look into it

>If you really really want to, I've seen builds with the radiator outside, it's not too hard to do, you can look it up
Yeah, and I already have plans for that.

Look, my current case has an empty space on the mobo side between motherboard mount and the side panel. If it were 6cm instead of 3 cm, and the side panel had holes for radiators (it could easily fit 3x 360mm), it would be all I need. It'd have separate airflow for the radiators (without interfering with my case temps), and it could fit all the radiators I could ever need. Hell, maybe I could even mount 4x200mm Noctua fans instead of 9x 12mm fans (for silence). It's hard to explain, maybe I should build my own case