Pcbg

1080p at like 200-300 fps is the best way to go imo desu

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I was aiming around 1.2 - 1.5k

So I installed my Noctua cpu cooler and decided to connect the low noise adapter as well. Hwinfo shows that the fan is rotating at around 1400rpm during idle. I checked the Noctua website and the adapter is designed for around 1300 rpm, but I there is still an audible "shoosh" jist like any other cpu cooler. Should I try adjusting the fan curve in the bios? Can it go lower than that?

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Not buy a 8600K. Get 8400 or 2600(X).

I was trying to point to how if you're going to be splitting the load between two rads (3?) only part of it is going to be heating up the intake, and combined with adequate airflow, it's going to mean that the air is barely going to be heating up at all.
You (or the other guy) are also assuming perfect heat transfer between the air and the radiator, which is simply not true due to heat transfer coefficients, and duration of contact which is where your flow heat exchange comes into play.

Look, honestly I don't think you have much grounds for complaining about "sub optimal" cooling due to radiators being inside the case.
In my first post replying to you/him I literally suggested a case which I think will be optimal for what you're looking for, without hand made modifications, another user did too (Lian Li PC O11, which was designed with der8auer, a literal OC god).
If you really really want to, I've seen builds with the radiator outside, it's not too hard to do, you can look it up.

I'm just tired of arguing over this non-issue for almost 3 hours.
These are your options, pick one.
Or just keep complaining if you want.
Either way, I'm done.

Forgot to mention.
If you really want to go all out there's the Thermaltake Level 20.
It DOES have a watercooling compartment.

>PSU fan gets like super loud for no reason (when PC is idle, somehow it never happens when at load)
>raise the PC a little bit and bang it to the floor
>it instantly gets quiet again for some time

So I assume it's some problem with the fan's bearing, does any user have any experience with fixing something like that?
I would rather not replace that PSU yet. It isn't even that much of problem as banging it always works, but I don't think it's entirely healthy for the PC to bang it to the floor everyday.

If you're using an HDD you're bound to kill it with the bangs.
See if the PSU is still under warranty, most brands offer around 10 years, just get it replaced.
I can't stress how much I absolutely don't recommend opening up a PSU, since the caps inside can actually kill you, even if it's unplugged (think battery banks, except they'll discharge in a split second, frying you).
Either live with the noise, or replace it.

>I was trying to point to how if you're going to be splitting the load between two rads (3?) only part of it is going to be heating up the intake
Generally, the intake radiator will do more work than the exhaust (bigger delta T). I also don't think I can mount more than 2x 360. Most cases I've seen only have places for max 8 case fans
>You (or the other guy) are also assuming perfect heat transfer between the air and the radiator, which is simply not true due to heat transfer coefficients, and duration of contact which is where your flow heat exchange comes into play.
Are you familiar with basic physics? Heat is energy, and energy doesn't just disappear. It will dissipate to the system's surroundings, and since the loop is inside the case, the heat will dissipate inside the case. I could calculate your heat transfer coefficients, but the only thing that would tell me is what temperature it would reach before reaching equilibrium.

As for radiators interfering with radiators, as I'm sure you know, the heat exchange capacity depends on the temperature differential (delta T). That matters more especially if you want to keep the coolant low temperature. In addition to that, higher case temps might reduce the overall effectiveness of the loop (but this hard to take into account, I don't know how much heat is exchanged between air inside the case and hoses and waterblocks). All in all, it does seem to me that radiator placement really matters, for both case and loop temps

>Look, honestly I don't think you have much grounds for complaining about "sub optimal" cooling due to radiators being inside the case.
With all due respect, I'm just going to disregard your opinion
>In my first post replying to you/him I literally suggested a case which I think will be optimal for what you're looking for, without hand made modifications, another user did too
Yes, I appreciate the suggestions and I will look into it

>If you really really want to, I've seen builds with the radiator outside, it's not too hard to do, you can look it up
Yeah, and I already have plans for that.

Look, my current case has an empty space on the mobo side between motherboard mount and the side panel. If it were 6cm instead of 3 cm, and the side panel had holes for radiators (it could easily fit 3x 360mm), it would be all I need. It'd have separate airflow for the radiators (without interfering with my case temps), and it could fit all the radiators I could ever need. Hell, maybe I could even mount 4x200mm Noctua fans instead of 9x 12mm fans (for silence). It's hard to explain, maybe I should build my own case