/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Create a parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
Search youtube for a guide for your socket

Want help?
>State your budget & CURRENCY
>List your uses eg Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors include purpose and graphics pairing
>NO Speccy. Use HWinfo
>For Win7 in Ryzen pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

CPU
>Athlon 200GE - Bare minimal desktop/gaming
>R3 2200G - Light gaming(dGPU optional)
>R5 2400G/i5-8400 - Consider IF on sale
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>i7-9700k/8700k/8700- If you have a $2000+ budget
>R7 2700/X - Best value high-end CPU on a non-HEDT platform
>Threadripper/Used Xeon - HEDT

RAM
>8GB - Enough for most gaming use
>16GB - Standard for heavy use
>32GB - If you have to ask, you don't need this
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2933MHz+ is ideal

Graphics cards
>RTX 2000 cards are worse performance per $ than previous gen
>Avoid cheap MODELS ie MSI Armor (Mk2 is ok), Gigabyte G1/Wf, ASUS dual, and others w/ small heatsinks and low quality fans
1080p
>RX 570/580/590 w/ Freesync or 1060 6GB - standard 1080p 60fps+ options
>1050 3Gb or RX560 4Gb - lower settings and/or older games
>GTX 1070Ti/Vega 56 - for higher FPS w/ a high hz monitor
1440p
>Vega; 1070Ti/1080 if you already have Gsync
>Waste money - for higher FPS w/ a high hz monitor
4K
>Upscale from 1620-1800p. Or 2080Ti, but awful value
OpenCL use
>Vega 64

Storage
>Backup before using StoreMi
>Consider getting a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & large HDD
>2TB HDDs are barely more $ than 1TB
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard

Display
>Consider 75hz minimum; 60hz are mostly old models
>Always consider FreeSync w/ AMD cards
>FOR GAMING START YOUR BUILD WITH A MONITOR FIRST, then make your build to drive it appropriately

More
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Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/4NmWw6
pcpartpicker.com/list/wxJRyX
amazon.co.uk/AOC-Q3279VWFD8-32-Monitor-LED/dp/B07CG41Y8Z#HLCXComparisonWidget_feature_div
pcpartpicker.com/list/2jFxP3
pcpartpicker.com/list/s4bdzY
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157765
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157766
amd.com/en/support/kb/faq/pa-100
pcpartpicker.com/list/6cwjgw
pcpartpicker.com/list/Vj6mJ8
pcpartpicker.com/list/2C7Zvn.
newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131717
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824022685&ignorebbr=1
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

pcpartpicker.com/list/4NmWw6
ok, pretty much done with build
should i bother changing ram ?
also what are some good cpu coolers (and is one needed) ?

>budget and CURRENCY
no more than 1k USD
>uses
mostly gaming. most intensive game i play is probably Killing Floor 2, not looking to do much beyond that
>monitors
this is where i'm completely clueless. for GPU debating between 580 and Vega 64 considering they're both really cheap, but don't know what else to really do from there.

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Should I grab a 2070 if a decent one lowers price? I've been eyeing upper mid-range performance gpus for a while now and I've narrowed it to the 2070, 1080 and Vega 64 but I don't know where to go from there. Aiming for 1440p @144 Hz

pcpartpicker.com/list/wxJRyX
Something like this. You could stretch to "b-die" 3200CL14 memory, but that comes at a $50-60 premium for arguably negligible gains.

is the Meshify C a good case? looking for something in the same price range and without the edgy gaymer aesthetic

Monitor resolution? If 1080p you could play killing floor on a potato. If you do for instance play any AAA games on 1080p@60-75hz, an RX580 would still be adequate. Only bother with a Vega if you're looking at higher refresh rates or low refresh 1440p. I'll chuck together a list in a sec.
>Should I grab a 2070 if a decent one lowers price?
In my opinion, yes. Although the 1070ti/1080/Vega/2070 performance level will be somewhat stretched at 1440p@144hz unless you go for a Free/G-sync monitor.

if you want your pc to explode

amazon.co.uk/AOC-Q3279VWFD8-32-Monitor-LED/dp/B07CG41Y8Z#HLCXComparisonWidget_feature_div
WHY cant this just be a tiny bit smaller

I'm definitely going to grab an adaptive sync monitor during this week's sales. I probably would have been dead set for the 2070 had there not been a g-sync premium to pay as well.

Is that a thing I should actually be worried about? Last I heard that was mostly a problem with the 2080ti's.

no real resolution preference. if there's not too much of a price diff i'd be cool with going for 1440p

I plan to get 2700x and 1070ti/1080 for my 1440p. A while ago I was told the best motherboard for this would be MSI B450 Tomahawk. I finally got money to buy it and with the black Friday coming I ask you - is the Tomahawk still the best value mb I can get? I don't play to OC anything.

Reposting.

There's a template, go nuts from there
pcpartpicker.com/list/2jFxP3
Plenty of room to upgrade to a 2600X/B450 Pro4 combination, upgrade from the 580 to a Vega/1070ti, upgrade to 3200CL14 memory.

Define C or Meshify C? If you know good alternatives similar to these I'm open to suggestions

I'm trying to make a budget PC build here but every motherboard I try adding flashes a compatibility issue warning in PC part picker, any suggestions? And does this look good or should I change anything?

pcpartpicker.com/list/s4bdzY

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Is 650 watts high enough for overclocking a Ryzen 2600? The card I'm using is a 580 Nitro+ but I don't plan on overclocking that

I'd avoid MSI for an "X" series processor. They make the best low range AM4 motherboards, but the lack of voltage offset leaves the PBO feature for 2600X/2700X a bit more limited.
Yeah, AFAIK the QC issues mainly stem from 2080ti' and Nvidia's push to get them out the door onto the shelves. In terms of adaptive sync performance/dollar, hard to beat Vega/Freesync at the moment.

550w would be more than enough even if you were overclocking the 580. 650w is overkill

Canada here:

Ryzen 7 2700 vs Intell Coffee Lake I5-8600k

Intel is like 50 dollars more expensive but am I going to end up paying more on RAM, coolers and a mobo with a ryzen

much obliged, user.

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>desktop chassis is usually made from steel
>laptop chassis is usually plastic or aluminium
>desktop has 3.5 inch drives
>laptops either uses 2.5 inch drive or ssd
>desktop has big (more effective) heatsinks
>laptop has puny thermal throttling junk heatsinks
>laptop has compact motherboard + no shroud for discrete gpu (if not integrated which will weigh even less)
>laptop uses sodimm, half the size as standard dimms
must i go on?

I didn't really look at the links but generally laptops have very tailored internals while PCs have the typical blocky GPU and massive PSU and so forth. PC chassis are normally made more robust to accommodate cooling solutions and also to allow better airflow, as a tiny enclosed laptop won't be able to circulate heat as well as the large, open space PCs have. PCs are just bigger as well.

this, desktops are also designed to be fully modular, being able to solder everything onto the motherboard surprisingly saves a lot of weight. also the power supply is normally in the charger.

Alright, I'll see how things go in terms of Black Friday sales and go from there. Thanks for the help.

so what else would you suggest instead of that msi motherboard?

The compatibility comes from your CPU choice being second gen Ryzen, which the first of the AM4 socket motherboards may not run with out of the box. You can avoid problems with this by choosing a newer (but often more expensive) motherboard, or choosing a Ryzen 1XXX instead of 2XXX.

Would newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157765 or newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157766 work with that build?

whats a good AM4 cooler? i was going to use a T4 hyper i have lying around but it doesn't mount the way i'd like

hyper is still a very good choice

>$700 for same performance as a $700 card a year and a half ago when 7nm is coming next year
No, that's terrible. Performance for the money for new cards is supposed to get better.

Thank you for your help

Both will work with that build, but they have the same problem where they are older and may not boot with a second-gen Ryzen CPU out of the box. Another way around this is to have a local store flash the BIOS for you with a first-gen Ryzen, or contact AMD for a loaner boot kit. amd.com/en/support/kb/faq/pa-100

yeah it's a good cooler but it sits sucking air from the back of my gpu

should i wait for discounts on mobo and cpu ?
the ram discoun and ssd seem pretty nice
any more newegg discounts happening this year ?

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Would $600 for an RTX 2080 be a good deal? Only care about the fact that it's a slightly better 1080 ti, no raytracing memes.

Any suggestions for a more expensive motherboard that will work out of the box then? Or should I just go with this intel one instead?
pcpartpicker.com/list/6cwjgw

That Ryzen CPU was my choice since its cheaper than the intel processor with similar performance but if I have to spend less on the CPU only to spend more on the motherboard then it might be better for me to go with the intel one.

For streaming and gaming, trying to stay under 1500. pcpartpicker.com/list/Vj6mJ8

This may work for you if you want to stick with AMD. pcpartpicker.com/list/2C7Zvn.
It's true that the Intel board is cheaper, though with negligible performance gains that depend on the task at hand.

Should I get a gtx 1060 or a rx 570? I'd be making some sacrifices to afford the 1060 but if it seems like the way to go I don't mind. I'd be playing games at 1080p 60hz for now but I may opt for a 144hz monitor in the future.

I think I'll go with the intel one then, the savings between the two are minimal/nonexistent but the compatibility stuff sort of scares me since I'm a beginner at this entire thing so Intel might be the safer/easier thing for me.
Thanks a ton for the help, hopefully this works out for me.

I'd personally opt for an RX 580, but both cards are going to do just fine at 1080p. Also would go for the Noctua U12S over the U9S, but the difference is likely minimal. Good build overall

Between the Asus MG278Q and MG279Q the only difference seems to be one is TN and the other is IPS with a slower response time and lower refresh rate (90hz freesync instead of 144 hz).

Are there really that many people willing to pay extra to degrade their screen latency and have potential screen bleeding?

Australia here
Do I still get the free games if I get Sapphire NITRO+ RX580 from Newegg

ditch the ssd (he fell for the ssd meme kek)
ditch the ryzen 5
ditch the motherboard
buy h370 socket 1151
buy i5 8400

imagine the postage

I'd also add, you can get CL14 3200mhz ram that will do your R7 a bit better for 200. My choice was the Team Dark Pro sticks. I'd also add an SSD but those are all things that will increase the price so it's up to you

why would I spend more for less?

>R5 2600 for $223aud
>i5 8400 for $329aud
who would win Jow Forums?

Good luck user. Since you really seem to be in the poverty zone, you could also try saving a few more dollars by buying a non-modular lower wattage PSU from a reputable company like EVGA.

2600

yes i did fall for the ssd meme, because its not a meme
ive been using both ssds and hdds for a while, and its night and fucking day

every point of his advice is asinine. even if the i5 8400 wasn't overpriced, why the fuck would you pay extra for a h370 chipset when a b360 is more than enough.

Clearly user's post was a satirical one.

You, sir, are the real meme.
Right now, the Rx570 has better value, but the 1060 is just slightly more powerful. Honestly, I'd go for a rx 580 right now, with the prices they are currently at.

sooooo
should i just wait and buy the ram and ssd and wait for the rest to go on sale ?

>fall for vega 56 meme, brought to you but /pcbg/
>can't even maintain 60 fps on 1440p 144hz monitor on Fallout 4
>all this after overclocking it, barely as it's super hard to overclock the POS

Should have bought a fucking 1070 ti. Don't fall for the meme kids. Pay £100 more for goysync and enjoy 100+ fps.

Screenshot of wattman so we can see what you're doing

Should've got a 64.

Don't have access to pc but I memorised the settings. This is with Samsung memory btw.

Memory clock: 950
Memory voltage: 950 (though changing this does nothing)

Clock speed: +5%
clock voltage: state 6 - 1100mv / state 7 - 1100mv

Power limit: tried +0 and + 50 but is on + 50 now
Max temp: 85 degrees / target: 65 degrees C
Fan: it's a good fan curve not gonna bother, stays at round 65-66 degrees in game

>no you stupid fucking goy, should have bought the more expensive power hungry one :^) even though we said the 56 can reach 64 levels by oc'ing

I'm worried about cheaping out on the PSU. I was told that the two parts I really shouldn't be cheaping out on are the CPU and the PSU so I went for that one since it seemed good and has all those protections along with the Bronze thing.

I'm upgrading from an ancient laptop that's almost a decade old so I want to buy all the core compontents to have a functional PC from this era and be able to upgrade it in the future or add to it without having to replace the whole thing like I'm doing with my current laptop.

>more expensive power hungry one
They're on sale for 400 U.S. shekels :^)

You must have something wrong with your card or system, because everywhere I'm seeing in this Nvidia favoured title, the Vega56 still gets better performance stock.

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Any chance of R5 2600 going on sale this year (newegg prefferably)?

Is building an office PC even worth it or are prebuilds so cheap it doesn't even matter?

Have a somewhat old 280X over here. It's dead, most likely because some SMD capacitor was knocked apart (don't ask how, just assume the very worst). I decided to still try it, fans seem to be running ok still, it gets "detected" as in Windows attempts to automatically install drivers for it (and doesn't know what the fuck to do with it) and atiflash detects it as well, but it's unable to read its ROM.

So, connecting the dots, is it possible the BIOS isn't able to operate properly because that capacitor isn't there anymore? I assume I can't fix this (mainly because I don't know which exact capacitor this is and don't have the tools for this) but I'm still curious.

Well I get 24k+ in firestrike graphics score, if that means anything. Is fallout 4 CPU intensive? Could my 3770k bottleneck it?

MB/PSU thoughts? I don't want to play overclocking. Am I limiting myself with these choices thought?

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Are system76 prebuilds a meme, or should I just build my own?

>Performance for the money for new cards is supposed to get better.

Only if amd manages to finally release something not shit and there's actual competition. But yeah I'd definitely Wait(tm) for 7nm.

Is it better to wait or to buy ram now ?
Is pic related going to drop even more by the end of the year (new years sale etc.) ?

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Hey guies,
I'm considering getting a NAS ( only for storage and backup purpose)
I guess build one my self would be money saver.
I Just need around 2To in raid.
I hope to have low power consumption and silent machine. And à small ssd or hdd for a bsd/Linux system with samba or nfs.
Any recommandation ? Shoud I expect something for Black friday ? Used cpu is OK too

>China to fine Hynix, Micron and Samsung $2.5bil each
based and redpilled

Score sounds normal enough, and I doubt a 3770 would bottleneck a Vega at 1440p

Aye.
>China punishes memory manufacturers
>USA punishes it's consumers
I don't know how to feel about this.

Looking for impressions from people that own the U2715H

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Best motherboard to use voltage offset with a 2600X? How power efficient is it compared to a x58 xeon with same cores, threads and tdp? Finally does PowerColor make good AMD cards like the link below?
newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131717

So is rx590 actually worth a bit higher price than 580?

>finally buy 2700X
>buy 3600Mhz CL16 memory

Am I an idort?

I like the Asrock B450 Pro4 for budget, or ASUS Prime X470 Pro for something a fair bit nicer.

youre fine

Any idea

Ryzen is miles more power efficient than a 1366 Xeon. Having said that, with X5660 Xeons so cheap, if you have an X58 board laying around it'd make a great budget option.
Red dragons are meant to be good, but isn't that a bit expensive for a 570? Seems to be almost 580 territory.

I've been meaning to buy a TV that would, among other things, serve as a secondary display for my PC. I don't know much about TV specs though, particularly refresh. When manufacturers claim "120Hz" do they mean it, or is it actually 60 with some gay-ass interpolation?

250 after taxes on this monitor with the promo code

Is it a good deal? If not, whats wrong with it? I don't know much other than 144hz is pretty good i think

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824022685&ignorebbr=1

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I would assume the worst because buying TVs for PC is usually a bad idea and I don't know if there is any TV media that goes above 60 FPS anyway

Any Microcetner customers here? I just bought a new Cpu+Motherboard from them less than a week ago and am wondering if they will give me the sale price of their blackfriday deal over the phone.

I'll check out the Asus motherboard, thanks. I miggt get B-Die so I may aswell get a good motherboard to go with it.
I have a X5650 but it's using a lot of power and microcode updates are killing the performance. And I'm Canadian so convert the prices, $189.99 CAD is the cheapest RX 570 4GB I've seen so I'm wondering if PowerColor is reputable.

I just got the Primce x470 because I plan on upgrading the cpu and you don't know how many cores futre processors will be so it's best to be on the safe side.

Prime Pro's a good board. Reasonably good looking (subjective) and pretty solid 6 phase VRM in that price bracket. Only thing I don't like about it is not only the lack of Q-code readout, but debugging LEDs of any description. Still don't think that'd stop me though for $150-160 when it's on sale.
>I have a X5650 but it's using a lot of power and microcode updates are killing the performance
Jesus, that sucks. I've still got my old P6T DeluxeV2 gathering dust with an old 920 in it. Still really want to resurrect it with an overclocked 6 core Westmere Xeon... What board are you using? Overclocked at all?

...

Seen plenty of people delidding intel processors due to high temperatures. What's a high temperature enough to be concerned about that you have to go and do this shit? And how is it put back together without whatever fucking paste they use?

Regular old P6T and 12 GB 1333 (actually 1200ish because of overclock bclk and multiplier shit, can't get it above 1333 even with max DRAM voltage and loose timings) but it was only $75 so wasn't too bad of a deal. OC'd to 4.2 and I can't use the modded bios that was for the P6T Deluxe/V2 to bring in the anti max multiplier throttle from the P6T WS, and ASUS fucked up the BIOS and VT-D is broken on all their X58 boards. I'd just throw in a L56xx, enable a bunch of power saving options and use it as a NAS/torrent box/VM machine ect, no idea if the consumer X58 boards support ECC RAM as I keep seeing conflicting information.

What do you think?

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Alright, so I'm a complete fag and know jack about computers. A few years back, I had this rig fixed:

Operating System
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i5 4590 @ 3.30GHz 41 °C
Haswell 22nm Technology
RAM
8,00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 799MHz (11-11-11-28)
Motherboard
ASRock H81M-G (CPUSocket) 34 °C
Graphics
LG FULL HD (1920x1080@60Hz)
2048MB ATI AMD Radeon R7 200 Series (MSI) 36 °C
Storage
931GB Seagate ST1000DM003-1ER162 (SATA ) 33 °C
Optical Drives
HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NSC0
Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio

I filled my Hard Drive without realizing it, and I got a "reboot your computer because there is a problem in the HD" message. I cleaned it up later, but now I need an external Hard Drive, and a new Hard Drive to replace my old one. Problem is, like I said; I know jack about computers and I need some advice on what to buy now. I'm trying to get back into the tech game, but I have to get them right now. My budget's around 140 euros for both. Any recs? I'd have posted a different thread, but I figure it's not really worth it and I could get more help here.

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From what i understand, the thing with delidding is that it's done for 2 reasons: 1. lower temps in general which allows for 2. more headroom for the turbo boost and overclocking. The 8700k, for example, is designed to run at 80-90°C and delidding helps a great deal.

when the fuck does ryzens turbo boost activate? even at 100% load on all cores my 2600 sits at base clock

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From the vega 64 I assume it's a purely gaming rig, in which case you might consider going down to 1600x to put the money into other components like better ram (which ryzen likes).
Game performance of 1700x vs 1600x is purely situational, in a lot of games it's literally zero.
Or you could just ignore me, it's a good build anyway.

Ryzen a shit, congratz you found out

I have that card
Only advice I have is to use a PSU stress tester right after the build is complete to check if the Vega card trips it. If it does trip it, you will need a bigger PSU.