Create a parts list

Create a parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
Search youtube for a guide w your socket

Want help?
>State your budget & CURRENCY
>List your uses eg Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors include purpose and GPU pairing
>NO Speccy. Use HWinfo
>For Win7 in Ryzen pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

CPU
>CPUs less threads usually suffer lower 0.1% minimums
>Athlon 200GE - Bare minimal desktop/gaming
>R3 2200G - Light gaming(dGPU optional)
>R5 2400G - Consider IF on sale
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>i7-9700k/8700k/8700 - If you have a $2000+ budget
>R7 2700/X - Best value high-end CPU on a non-HEDT platform
>Threadripper/Used Xeon - HEDT

RAM
>Always choose at least a 2 stick kit
>8GB - Bare minimum/Light desktop use.
>16GB - Standard amount
>32GB - If you have to ask, you don't need this
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2933MHz+ is ideal. Check "more" for true latency formula

Graphics cards
>RTX 2000 cards; cheap models usually low yield processor. Aim for factory OC versions for best performance
>use your due diligence with cheap MODELS ie MSI Armor (Mk2 is ok), Gigabyte G1/Wf, ASUS dual, and others w/ small heatsinks and low quality fans. They may be cheap, but won't get high boost clocks like better models
1080p
>RX 570/580/1060 6GB - standard 1080p 60fps+ options
1080p@144hz
>Vega 56/1070ti best value, Free/G-sync monitor highly recommended
1440p@60-75hz
>Vega/1070ti/1080/2070
1440p@100+hz
>1080ti/2080
4K
>Upscale from 1620-1800p. Or 2080Ti, but awful value
OpenCL use
>Vega 64

Storage
>Backup before using StoreMi
>Consider a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & HDD
>2TB HDDs are barely more $ than 1TB
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard

Display
>Consider 75hz minimum; 60hz are mostly old models
>Always consider FreeSync w/ AMD cards
>START YOUR BUILD WITH A MONITOR FIRST, then make a build to drive it appropriately

More
>rentry.co/pcbg-more

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Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/nRjG6s
pcpartpicker.com/list/D4BPcY
pcpartpicker.com/product/qnqhP6/samsung-lc27jg50qqnza-270-2560x1440-144hz-monitor-lc27jg50qqnza
pcpartpicker.com/list/sphrhy
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Failed title header edition

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fuck amd

I had to remove my hard drive expansion bay and reroute my usb 3 cable to fit this monstrosity in

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thats a thicc fucking heatsink

The fans don't even turn on until 55 even though I set a curve but it runs pretty cool temps wise

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What's your case?

Ah, R5

Yes

Anyone else own a tesseract deepcool ? my whole case is bent so it wobbles on my desk, and the side panel is also bent, and i cant even put the side panel in because my cables are sticking too far out

r5 2600 or r7 1700x?

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x58 board and 5650

Looking to buy a 24" 1080p 144hz gaming monitor, but most options seem to be from 2016 at the latest. Seem pretty old, is that fine? Recurring models that come up are
>ASUS VG248QE
>Viewsonic XG2401
>AOCG2460PF

Anyone got suggestions?

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Yes because new monitors are going for the new meme resolution

>ASUS VG248QE
Had this since its release more or less. I can definitely recommend.

State your purpose.
Gaming? 2600.
Workstation? 1700... Or an old Xeon mentioned here

Danke anons

Welp, looks like I’m going to have to resort to the soldering iron. I couldn’t find a screw extractor small enough for this screw and rubber bands and super glue didn’t work.

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I game on my newest gen i3 and a 1050. Works fine.

Gonna upgrade I guess when graphics card tank since shitcoin tanked. Probably only need an i5 and 1070ti right? I dont wanna spend much, I dont really play games that often. Too cheap to get current gen console and buy games, I just pirate everything.

>dumb enough to buy cuck lake
>dumb enough to buy a exploding pootraceing 30 fps gpu
just fuck off back to /v/ where you belong

Grind a slot in the top and use a flathead.

>buying intel
read the OP dumb nigger

Fuck man AMD seemed shitty and now I already have the board with Intel. What the fuck is wrong with the new Intel chips? I had an older AMD chip previously, it couldn't run anything even with the 1050 I bought. Then I got a new motherboard and chip, games run fine on low.

>Gonna upgrade I guess when graphics card tank since shitcoin tanked.
They've already tanked.
>Probably only need an i5 and 1070ti right?
Read the OP and state your resolution and refresh rate. For the money there's no point buying an i5 over an R5 2600.

AMD loos out

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the op has i7s in it

Just to clarify, can a regular non-x 2600 run modern games at 60 frames without needing to be overclocked?

can anyone reccomend a wifi card

>just to clarify
>asking a vague question that needs clarifying to answer

just get a console

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I don't plan on using rtx lmao I just wanted the performance boost

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> What the fuck is wrong with the new Intel chips?
security flaws, thermal issues, overpriced, they are just shit

> I had an older AMD chip previously,
>bulldozer was shit so so is zen
great logic there dipshit are you so retarded you cant see benchmarks?

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>non-x
>when buying poorfag amd
save some lunch money and get the x

then you could have gotten a cheaper and better 1080ti

>ples sir do the needful and buy intel

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Why won't my PC connect to my phone's internet hotspot? I've tried resetting my phone, resetting my PC, using bluetooth, connecting directly to my phone via usb, nada.

Hotspot works fine on my laptop. PC doesn't even detect it. what causes this?

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i7 on the way, how bad did i fuck up?

do you have a 2080ti playing games on a 1080p 240hz monitor? are you ok with upgrading your expensive parts every 9-12 months due to lack of backwards compatability?

if not, you fucked up good

pcpartpicker.com/list/nRjG6s Is this fine? What would you change?

Why won't RX 590 go on sale?
I don't want RX 580 AHHHHHH

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Such useful discourse.

>seriously answering a thread derailer
Jusy stop replying.
>inb4 150 replies

Hey faggots, anyone here got a b350 board and ryzen cpu?

I need a CPU cooler under $50. I'm using XFR/PBO with a 2600X. All I want are
- reasonable noise levels (doesn't have to be silent, just not jet engine loud)
- under $50
- no diminishing returns (if the second best is $10 I'll get that instead)

I just want the CPU to run at its max potential without being thermally limited. Does anyone have any suggestions?

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i3-8100 or i5-7400? Same price. And yes it's between these two. i3 seems to be better everywhere I check, but I'm more or less a layman and wonder what the heck i5 stands for in this case (cause it seems not to imply performance).

I did bench marks on the old chip it was pathetic. Once I ran the same bench on the i3 it was like 7000 instead of 250 or some crazy amount.

Im screwed because I have a motherboard that works with the new Intel. Don't feel like buying all new shit, just a card and chip. I'll just use logical increments I guess. My monitor is also currently a piece of shit, 24" 1080p. Lol it's a "Zalman" mz240ed that I got for like 140 about 5 years ago

The "sale" is that it comes with like $120 street-value worth of games.
It's like $160 if you want the games, which is really good.
If you don't want them, yeah the price sucks and it should go down after the games promo ends. But I wouldn't expect it to go down much under a 1060 if at all considering it's the plainly better card.

>And yes it's between these two.
You're asking us to choose between death by sustained prolapse or death by starvation while our eyes are forced open and we're forced to watch every tiktok video without sleep.

You can pretty much get an R5 2600 for the price of those and you're retarded for not paying the difference

I've got the new i3, I would go with the newer shit since it's got a different type of thing to plug into the motherboard. That way if u upgrade, within the next few generations it should still have the same plug.

Lookup the compatibility with motherboards and you will see the older i5 works with the older motherboard, and the newer i3 with the newer style motherboard.

Arent i3's really bad with modern games?

>Arent i3's really bad with modern games?
I don't have an i3

Yeah I'd get a 2600 in a split second but CPU must be hackintosh-friendly and I'm on a third world market.
Yeah you're right, that's a pretty big incentive indeed. I guess I was just on the fence because "buying an i3 on 2018" just reads weird, but it's likely just marketing playing me.

sounds like a glitch in the mainframe
have you tried resetting your jumper cables to FOLLOWER and tightening your risers?

oh sorry
Arent i3's bad with modern games?

>Yeah I'd get a 2600 in a split second but CPU must be hackintosh-friendly and I'm on a third world market.
hackintoshes are an utter waste of time, just get the real thing

Fuck now I want to buy vega

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Where can I sell my rx470 and rx480?

i got a watercooler for my 2600 for 40$ right before black friday

ebay duh

Anyone had to flash their mobo?

Benchmarks on YouTube seem pretty good, and always positive on the i3 side between those two. But yeah neither should be on your rather as the go-to unless you need Intel, it seems.
Bro for 3 years I've been running a frankenstein Windows 8/Litestep/AHK build on a ghetto laptop that has almost all ports broken and runs only with literal fan placed under it. I know what a pain in the ass is. Plus it's my only choice for now, comparable hardware Apple is out of my price range.

I can get one for $45 on amazon right now I just think it's shit.

t. good goy

I mean you should have when they were like $400 or less with games. 3rd best value GPU after the RX570 and RX580.

Anything 4 threads or less is terrible in newer games. Even some older more demanding games. 6 threads is borderline.

It can't possibly not be shit. $30 air cooler probably twice the cooling at 1/10th the noise.

What the actual fuck is so triggering about me having an issue with trying to connect to my phone's hotspot on my PC that I can't get a straight answer?

I see anons shit on ebay graphics card. Is the risk real? It could mean the difference between me getting a 1060 over a 1080 for the same price

Why do people always recommend outrageous parts per resolution as if everyone is as obsessed with playing max settings as they are?

is rmx better than the rm corsair series?

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MUH GRAFIXXXX MUHFUGGA

>*plays league of legends and shovel knight*

It was probably used for mining.

> cheaper 1080ti

None left lol

Can someone please answer this question for me?

Just get a Shadow Rock and be done with it.

I only bought a used EVGA 1080 because it was within its original warranty. I don't know if any other manufacturers do this but EVGA puts the warranty on the part itself instead of the purchaser, so if you got the GPU secondhand within 3 years of the original purchase date you can still RMA it if there's an issue. I'd be real wary about buying used computer hardware without that kind of safety net, though.
can't go wrong with old reliable (hyper 212 evo)

can't find many reviews, and many say it's rather middling
what makes it better than the Deepcool 400 ($16) or any other cooler?

I bought $1300 worth of components this past weekend. I need a 1440p 144hz monitor now and my set up will be complete. That being said, I don't really wanna drop ~$400-500 right now. My new rig is vastly more powerful than the rig my current 1080p 60hz monitor was originally bought for. Can I use the new rig with these monitors without crazy bad tearing or should I suck it up and buy the new monitor?

I won't be able to build the new PC until my 2700x gets off back-order though so it's not like I'll be building it this weekend. I do have a little time.

Suck it up and buy a new monitor. If you have an Nvidia card I recommend the XB271HU bmiprz.

I just bought a new monitor myself. if you're using nvidia, be prepared to pay ~$600 for those specs with g-sync. if you're using AMD, you'll save a few hundred since freesync is cheaper.
>can I use my old monitor without tearing
yeah, a higher end graphics card should have no problem keeping a 1080p resolution at 60fps.

>. I need a 1440p 144hz monitor now and my set up will be complete. That being said, I don't really wanna drop ~$400-500 right now.
willing to settle for 1080p? you can get an optix mag24 for 170

I thought tearing came from sending more frames than the monitor could keep up with.

>install SSD
>speed difference is unironically night and day

holy fucking shit I thought you guys were memeing me

I'm pretty sure tearing occurs when it's the other way around; GPU can't keep the monitor at its rated refresh rate.

My mouse died and I need a new one. What is a good mouse?
No wireless, no bluetooth. Programmable buttons a plus, prefer high dpi.

>what makes it better than the Deepcool 400
Greater mass, more heat pipe, substantially more fin surface area.
>or any other cooler?
I niether have a catalogue of various random air coolers, nor do I have the means or time to bench test every single obscure option. I do however have a pretty good idea that the Shadow Rock would be comfortably on the side of overkill for a 2600X, without being too expensive.
Or you can just try the $16 cooler and see how you go! If you deem it inadequate, you're only $16 out of pocket.

>Greater mass, more heat pipe, substantially more fin surface area.
it's bigger though if these numbers are accurate (?)

>He bought PC without a budget for monitor
What an absolute retard.
You could have gotten a 1440p build including monitor for $1300.
pcpartpicker.com/list/D4BPcY At least if you caught the better Vega sales lmao. Now they're gone.

This is why the OP says what it says, but you didn't listen and instead planned to pay all that money just to output to a shitty monitor. Now pay up your idiot tax

If 1440p 144hz is your only criteria here's one for $300
pcpartpicker.com/product/qnqhP6/samsung-lc27jg50qqnza-270-2560x1440-144hz-monitor-lc27jg50qqnza

But personally I'd spend another $100 for one with an ips panel

What cpu should I get for a Vega 56? Don't plan on upgrading it. Should be able to run well with a 1080ti-esque performance level.

Is prime95 even remotely realistic for stress testing? I've run several synthetic benchmarks, encoded videos, and nothing makes my CPU get even close to the temps that prime95 does.

>it's bigger though if these numbers are accurate
It is. Height should be similar to a 212 (120mm fan) but with a longer heatsink (fan pushes through a longer path)

when buying 2.5' ssd, should i buy enclosure?
what does enclosure do?

>Is prime95 even remotely realistic for stress testing?
Not even remotely. It's an absolutely savage overkill stress test that's good for seeing if your system is 100% stable in worst case scenarios.

I mean the deepcool—it's larger than the shadow rock

pcpartpicker.com/list/sphrhy
Is this shit fine?

It's larger than the Shadow Rock Slim (which is about 212 size), not the Shadow Rock. The Shadow Rock heatsink is like a box.

It's fine. I'd change the 2.5" SSD for an M.2,and get a smaller case. The R6 hasn't really got any place unless you've got a library of half a dozen or so HDDs, or you're embarking on a custom loop.

Vega56 is generally a bit behind 1080, maybe slightly ahead if you get lucky and get Samsung HBM and flash it. Not 1080Ti.

But uh just a 2600X is perfectly fine whether it's 1080p or 1440p. For 1440p you'd even be fine with a 2600.

I should probably add this to the paste. I keep forgetting.
It depends on CPU. Prime95 stresses different parts.
Aida64 stress test found instability better than Prime95.
And sure you could run an OC that's not stable in Prime95 and Aida64 but is stable in everything else.

their naming scheme really sucks
unfortunately the shadow rock LP is $43... seems a bit overkill for an air cooler, am I wrong? Back in the day I just used a hyper 212 and it did just fine, with a sandy bridge chip

do I really need more than that for AMD poozen?

And the PSU is overkill. Could save a bit going down to an 850w.

What do you need so much space for? Looks like how I'd build my dream except I'd just use a single 1tb m.2

I had a XG2402 that I just returned. 144hz 1080p 24" didn't have the wow factor I was looking for coming from a 60hz 1080p 2011 Asus panel.

Anything other than games looked the same or became discernible after a few minutes of using it and not looking for the difference. Yes I calibrated, yes I had 144hz on. I'm either going to get a 1440p @ 27" 60hz or 144hz. That's where my wow factor is.

Does anyone here sometimes feel the urge to upgrade their parts when they don't need upgrading all because of disposable income?

As long as you're upgrading your monitor suit, there's nothing needless in terms of getting enjoyment. It's the mouth breathers who buy 8700k/1080ti on a basic 1080p@60hz panel that are probably upgrading needlessly.