/mkg/ - Mechanical Keyboard General

And here is mine
realforce.co.jp/products/R2TL-JPV-IV/index.html

That just shows off the difference in solenoids more than anything.

The ones with APC (variable switch actuation) seem to have more sensible fn key wiring. However it's like $100 more expensive.
But I guess Japanese boomer salaryman don't give a shit about such details.

On closer inspection
- US layout has 2 super keys, 2 alt keys. menu mapped to fn + right super
- JIS layout 1 super key, 2 alt keys. Menu mapped to fn + right alt.
since fn is "hard wired", maybe my issue with my key bindings is due to a firmware issue?

the 3278 has tripleshot keycaps tho unlike the 5251. Also they do feel different. The beam springs have a slight difference in design which I think improves the feel on the 3278.

Model F is the best keeb in the world.

Are Topres worth the premium price or are they just overpriced rubber domes?

They're overpriced rubber domes, but they do feel better then any of the rubber dome keyboards I've tried

The latter.

Topre switches are excellent.

BUY TOPRE.

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>slider after housing
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

it's from the realforce website

probably looks stupid the other way

Can I get a rubber dome & membrane keyboard with a similar typing experience as topre for much less money?

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Is there any decent typing software out there to train/test your speed/accuracy/WPM etc?

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clean up this mess

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But that would be the accurate way to explode it

Nope. If you want the topre feel get topres. That said they aren't worth the hype. BTC and BKE domes are better imo

I'm slow AF but I train myself to be autistic about using the correct form of typing with the whole 10 fingers and touch typing.
I use typer racer and I'm often faster than most but every once in a while I get ultimately rekt by those 100WPM people.
I usually max out at 60 WPM, with spikes at around 80. But on longer texts or texts with unfamiliar words / lots of symbols, I average at around 40WPM.

ya fair enough.

dont ask me what the japs do what they do.

Attached: toper.png (2060x1300, 271K)

Like this. "pro", borderline "typermaster" but slow AF by Jow Forums standards

Attached: Screenshot_2019-03-15 TypeRacer - the global typing competition.png (632x280, 31K)

Shine is preventing me from using my ALT Laser.
ABS is so trash.

That's not software. That's a website.

look mom, I'm a typermaster !
lmao why do you care? How often are you offline and needing to practice your typing?
good enough IMO

Attached: Screenshot_2019-03-15 TypeRacer - the global typing competition(1).png (620x281, 31K)

keybr.com/

I'm not taking advice from some trash ass slow ass retard ass bitch boy. I'm trying to get better but I'm already way faster than you. How embarrassing.

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>How embarrassing

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lmao that's like how fast I am after switching to Planck for 11 hours
110 wpm on staggered

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You're too slow. What are you trying to brag for?

>staggered
I'm not trying to brag. I'm saying I'm slow and am looking for software to help me improve. And if I think I'm slow at 90wpm, then I think it's safe for me to ignore the 50wpm brainlette that recommends fucking typeracer.com.

You're a nut.

What is the lightest linear switch? I'm an ergofag and I think it would be more /comfy/ with a lighter switch. Gat clears?

Budget
>$130 or less
Switch
>Low profile Red or Speed
Layout
>Tenkeyless
Form factor
>Chiclet keys
Backlight
>No preference single backlight is fine

Who makes this?

OLKB Planck Light

>Kailh Low Profile
>3 choices for keys: tactile, clicky, linear.

probably the gat clears yeah
they feel insanely light
I don't even feel like I'm really bottoming out on them
very lightly in any case, they don't make much sound (other than the spacebar)
when you type on them it feels like you're going at 200wpm
they're among my favorites
I kinda want to try gateron browns lubed with 35g springs, or even 30g if it's possible without rebound problems
depends on where you live
they're sold under different branding (even though they're essentially the same keyboards)
I know you can find the havit ones pretty much anywhere around the world on amazon
they come in tkl and with kailh choc linears

They only make 60% keyboards though. Looking for TKL.

What branding do they have for SEA?

Alright nerds, recommend me a mech keyboard under 50€ that doesn't sound like your grandmother having diarrhea

amazon.com/Rapoo-Mechanical-Removable-Anti-ghosting-Extra-Thin/dp/B07DZV7LGQ/?tag=akshatblog198-20

amazon.com/DAREU-Bluetooth-Wireless-Mechanical-Tenkey-less/dp/B075SZ56PD/?tag=akshatblog198-20

Look at those. I didn't read the to %60 before.

Ah nice, but it's 2x more expensive than I'd like (since it comes with two pads).
Maybe I could see if I can convince a friend to use a gamepad. Alternatively, any euros/britbongs in here that would like to split a nyquist?

Search for Kailh Low Profile and Cherry Low Profile Switches.

>If a keyboard manufacturer doesn't sell it, then it will probably be in a kit.
>kits are fairly simple to assemble.

no clue quite frankly
in the EU a couple of them are: drevo, havit, sharkoon, gamdias

the odd thing is that I can't even seem to find any low profile boards on aliexpress apart from a havit with blue switches
alternatively, there's the cooler master sk630 which uses cherry mx low profile (which is fairly new to the market) and probably over your budget as well

yeah the 20usd in shipping or however much it is, isn't worth it
there's one more thing you could do, which will cost you 14 euros
aliexpress.com/item/fuckmedaddy/32821198488.html
get this plate and cut it in half

I've used this plate to accommodate 2 of my boards
it's 1.5mm thick stainless steel, so cutting it is going to be pretty hard (I used a dremel and it's a pain in the ass, tin snips won't go through it easily either) if you don't have the dedicated tools, if you do have the tools then it should be easy

I'd actually prefer a PCB to a plate. If I did want a plate really badly then custom acrylic cutting services are everywhere, whereas custom PCB services almost never have a 1x option and if they do it's prohibitively expensive.

If I do get an xd75 plate and cut it, I'll need to handwire the switches, and then I'd really need some sort of case, too, which will be a problem.

...

I never see mkg talk about key chatter. How many of you experience it?

There's a bit with my spring swaps, also for the first few days my springs would crunch if I bottomed out to hard. That went away though.

Lubing helps, but then you need to lube and it increases the resistance of the whole thing

20% Boards yeet

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Even if you do get switch chatter, the problem can be solved in QMK with debouncing.

What about replacing switches? I'm really not that well versed in these things. At some time in the past, I believe I read someone claiming that a certain time of keyboard build - for example a plate mounted one - would require desoldering ALL switches in order to repair just one. Is that true? Are there mechanical keyboards out there that are constructed like this?

Also, I wonder if the hot-swappable switches like in the GMMK will retain a stable connection to the PCB over years or if they will be more prone to issues like key chatter.

>certain time of keyboard build
I meant 'type' obviously.

no, you can replace 1 switch at a time, regardless of how it's mounted
also I've never had keychatter in my qmk boards, of which 2 are handwired board and 2 with pcb
I had keychatter on my noppoo keyboard (which was a common thing apparently) not sure what caused it, was a pcb/controller related thing (and niz plum/noppoo keyboards still have similar issues to this day, so beware)

chances are replacing the switch won't do anything, unless if you notice it in a switch specifically, you can also just disassemble the switch (after desoldering it) and 'clean' it or replace it

When are you gonna be redesigning the silkscreen art? I'm broke but also financially irresponsible so I want to make sure I get the first iteration to feed my autism

Okay thanks.

I mean it's only natural that if you're searching for people having problems with their keyboards online, of course you're going to find them. I am aware of this. Still, by this point I have heard or read of key chatter occuring in basically every brand that uses Cherry MX switches. I think it's just inherent in the design of the switches themselves that it can happen. People say it's either bad debounce routine in firmware, you say it was a controller issue, others say it's dust in the switch, I have heard of fault USB cords or ports being the cause. No one really knows.

Are there switches that do it less than Cherry MX? Like I have never had chatter on a rubber dome ever. In ALL these years. No matter the brand it just does not happen.

Georgi is going to stay as it is for a few months at least.

Gergo is going to be redesigned later this week, Just minor tweaks to component placement, routing, and assembly (won't make any difference for plates/cases/etc) and I'm going to change up the artwork. Dubbing it Gergo: Infornography for the time being.

Not decided on the theme, probably going to keep it Lain themed, but was toying around the possibility of Hackers themed or something. What do you anons want?

A Guy Fawkes mask

My iKBC poker mimi finally reached my country. Now I need to wait for a few more days for them to decide of they'll tax it plus the delivery time. 2 months is a lot

Is there a way to turn my wired key board into a wireless keyboard?

Stop selling readies and work on improving the trackball REEEEE

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Not one that works well for custom shit, but there are HID relay devices.

Man I fucking wish, I work at a hotel so my time there is spent of FW/Docs/Shilling all of my free time is going to getting these orders cleared. It's kind of nuts how little time I actually have. Take a look at the code for Georgi in sten.h, it's kind of insane. :(

That being said, I also suck at mouse code, it's open source so If someone is looking to add some C to a resume or something, give'r shit.

I need to watch hackers and find some stills I think.

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I can't handle this anymore.
Kill every human on Earth.

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based

it's all preference my man

I use a keyboard for work and at home, so paying a premium is nothing looking at cost benefit analysis

gergoman, the large thumb keys on the gergo are approx. 3mm further away from the home row than on the ergodox. I find that my thumb naturally rests between the 2u and 1.5u keys. I find this very uncomfortable.

Do you too have good feeling of oneness with cup rubber?

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Oh no, I just realized I use keyboards wrong. My fingers rest on SDFG, HJKL blaming that on fuckin' vim.

But try setting your caps up like this on the bottom: 1u 1.5u 2u 2u

Cooler Master sk660

The Japanese are too pure

Question for the DIYfags out there:
How easy is it to have RGB lighting with QMK firmware and through hole LEDs?
I like purple backlighting but I can't find purple LEDs that aren't just UV pretending to be purple.

Niz makes Topre clones.

Through-hole RGB LEDs that work with switches are hard to come by, and if you manage to find those, good luck finding a PCB that supports them.

Better best is SMD Rgb for per key and something like the ISSI drivers.
github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/drivers/issi

That being said something like crkbd which isn't Per key is pretty okay as well. Honestly, ditch the RGB and you'll have a better time

That screen is A E S T H E T I C S

But I don't want rubber dome.

This is stupid anyway. If you type in the official way i reached 168wpm when i did the exam. I reckon if i tried now i'd type like 60-100wpm.

Good lord Hyper-7 keyboards look fantastically fun. I tried searching them up and the latest info I saw of them was like mid last year. Is there anywhere to watch to see if they crop up again? Like MassDrop or the like?

just keep checking geekhack.

Attached: Hper 7 Round & keycaps.jpg (4032x3024, 1.18M)

To those who use the 60%/poker style layout: how much of a pain is not having the arrows?

Thinking of making one but I worry about not having the arrow keys particularly in games and I'm wondering if I should just make a 68 key instead or even bite the price bullet and go 75%.

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>ARROWS
>GAMES

lol what are you doing nig

user, FN (either replaces right alt or split right shift) + some keys...

the advantage of 60% is the great compatibility
cases, keycaps, plates, pcbs
for that alone I'd go for 60% over 68% or 75%

this is my first layer (fn key is next to the left, where usually altgr is)
I could also toggle it back and forth and a bunch of other shit
(this is not necessarily possible with the poker though, mine is QMK)

so yeah, the arrow keys can still be there if you want them to be, albeit it's a bit different

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>right shift is up arrow
actually not bad idea while using "standard" keycap set, most of us never use the right modifier group

It is quite common if you use left handed mouse

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Wouldn't you use pl;' then?

>Honestly, ditch the RGB and you'll have a better time
If I could find actually purple LEDs I'd ditch it in a heartbeat.

There is no point. You can easily feel when your fingers are on arrow cluster if using normal 104/87 kbd and you don't have to worry about slipping.

Funny thing - before WASD was established (quake I time) many players played it like that.

what about these
flashquark.com/product/switch-leds/

Any anons here using split spacebar (particularly ortho) set to backspace or enter, and which?